Going Aisin-details, details, details
- Thread starter 77mustard40
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #62
Pin_Head said:
Consider me spanked, dropping that little rubber o-ring over the needle didn't feel right but somehow I "talked" myself into it. I'm certainly not point a finger at you, I would not have attempted this myself without your inspiration and assistance (along with many others). I guess I got tired of looking at carburetors like some kind of poisonous snake from a distance.
Anyway I cracked the top of the carb and found my little friend, removed him, reset the float again and reset the airhorn. I certainly don't have the smallest hands and assembling linkage is much easier on the table than in the truck, but I got it. Turned the key and it fired right up, made a couple of adjustments and took it for a spin over the same problematic route with no ill effects. Got out on the freeway and let it rip, even bogged in down Sea Knight's torn up street in 4th and I could not get it to stall. I need to work back through the fine tuning with the vacuum meter and a tach and will do that this weekend.
Last question, can you ever get kicked off this site for doing dumb things and wasting a lot of folks time, kind of like getting Gonged? If so here is a pick of what is taking me down.
There it is next to the plain as day instructions.
Final shot with everything hooked up and fuel right smack where it should be. Thanks again guys, I think I'm going to be happy with this move.
Yes, but only if you buy a Jeep.
Hey, if you can get through that disaster area without stalling, you can drive anywhere. Congrats.
Well, I turned a brand new Toyota wheel cylinder into a donor kit for a rebuild by not noticing the one digit that is different in the part number, between the cylinder on the front of the wheel, and the one on the back. Cruiser Dan liked the story, so all was not lost. And now, we can all laugh your story, subtitled The Day Kelly Lost The World's Smallest Rubber Cock Ring Inside His Carb Rebuild!
tucker74
Moderator
Looks great Kelly, cant wait to see it in the parking lot at Billy's this afternoon 
. Forgot to mention I've got a bunch of silicone vacuum hose left from my swap if you want to use some -
Tucker
. Forgot to mention I've got a bunch of silicone vacuum hose left from my swap if you want to use some -Tucker
Where did you buy the silicone hose? What color? How much?
77mustard40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #70
Looks great Kelly, cant wait to see it in the parking lot at Billy's this afternoon
Tucker
May take you up on some, I had some trouble getting the right sizes and made do with what I could find.
Drove her to work this morning and she wanted to turn into the driveway at Billy's out of instinct; she seems to be looking for a good porter so I'm in.
Looks great Kelly, cant wait to see it in the parking lot at Billy's this afternoon
Tucker
What else do you have hoarded away?
Kelly, that's good news that you got it going.
tucker74
Moderator
Sea Knight said:
I got it from one of those online ricer sites when I got the 3" elbows for my intake, it's black in the correct metric diameter (don't remember what that is anymore). I also have some silicone nipples in a couple sizes, could only find those in red
. Had issues with rubber vacuum line and nipples in the past -Tucker
Ummm...OK.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
The idle jet pulls from behind the main jet at the bottom of the bowl.
When it stalls it is not flooded, and springs back to life instantly when the key is turned and the throttle is pressed, even just a little. It is clearly an issue in the idle circuit, and only occurs when either pointed downhill or when coming to a stop and pressing the clutch in. Pointing uphill is no problem whatsoever.
The issue started when I changed out the primary jet to pass emissions. I thought it was because of the jet, but the problem remained when I put the old jet back in. Prior to that she idled fine under all conditions.
I removed the solenoid and visually watched it actuate when energized. I also bypassed the entire wire harness and computer and drove with the solenoid hardwired to the battery and still got the stalling problem. I also eliminated the EGR by disconnecting it, checked HAC, HIC and even changed out the distributor to a spare. I replaced the coil and plug wires just for good measure!
With the solenoid out I removed the mixture screw, then sprayed carb cleaner down the passage between the solenoid and mixture screw and observed it coming out where the mixture screw goes. I also ran a wire file through the passage between the mixture screw and throttle body and verified that it is clear and not obstructed.
I think it is a float problem too, but what I am trying to wrap my brain around is how it could have happened simply by changing out the jet through the port on the front. At one point I took the top off the carb and inspected it and could not find anything obvious, like crud in the bowl, but I did not check the float adjustment at that time. I have never seen or heard of a float that needed adjustment once it is set. I guess it could happen?
Thanks Jim. That just blew a hole in my theory. Oh well, I guess I should still verify float level adjustment, right?
Jeff:
If it only stalls when idling down hill (as opposed to going down hill at high speed), one possibility is that the idle fuel solenoid wire is flopping around and shorting out (but not enough to pop the fuse). Could also be that the ground wire is losing contact. That would be strange, but the problem is strange. The idle circuit doesn't do much at speeds above idle, so that wouldn't explain it if it is stalling when not idling.
The problem with 60s is that the computer controls this circuit and gets signals from the speed sensor, manifold vacuum and maybe tachometer, so it is more complex than on 40s. Put a volt meter on this wire and monitor the voltage as you go down hill. At least this would point you toward the carb or electrical side of it.
If it is not flooding, I doubt it is a float problem.
Regards,
Charlie
If it only stalls when idling down hill (as opposed to going down hill at high speed), one possibility is that the idle fuel solenoid wire is flopping around and shorting out (but not enough to pop the fuse). Could also be that the ground wire is losing contact. That would be strange, but the problem is strange. The idle circuit doesn't do much at speeds above idle, so that wouldn't explain it if it is stalling when not idling.
The problem with 60s is that the computer controls this circuit and gets signals from the speed sensor, manifold vacuum and maybe tachometer, so it is more complex than on 40s. Put a volt meter on this wire and monitor the voltage as you go down hill. At least this would point you toward the carb or electrical side of it.
If it is not flooding, I doubt it is a float problem.
Regards,
Charlie
I thought about that also, so I built a separate pigtail and wired the solenoid directly to the battery, completely bypassing all of the stock wiring including the computer. When I test drove it in that configuration, it still stalled when coming to a stop with no throttle pressed. I think that pretty much eliminates the power to the solenoid as being the culprit, no?
I know that LOL! That's why the pigtail I built has two wires, one for ground and the other for power. I know that on 60s, the ground to the computer is a common weak point when it comes to solenoid problems. Before I built the pigtail harness I took the computer out and resoldered all the joints for the connector, and at that point I built a short pigtail to ground the solenoid negative terminal at the computer connector. But I figured that there was a chance that the wiring in between the computer and the solenoid might have some kind of intermittent fault, which is why I built the bypass to go directly to both battery terminals. I was really, really hoping that was my issue because it would have been such an easy fix.
FWIW, the positive wire to the solenoid is black with white stripe and the negative is green.
The only reason I am wondering about the float is because my fuel level is at the bottom, or slightly below the bottom of the window. That, and maybe I bumped it and buggered it somehow when I was changing the jet?
