gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (2 Viewers)

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Never been on the dyno. Maybe one day but it's really not a priority for me.

Interesting thing - the water pump for my water-air intercooler was going on and off this past week when I was driving the Coquihalla. I don't know yet whether it was electrical or if the pump is dying from being run dry a while back. It's strange that it keeps turning itself on and off...

I could tell when it was not working because the temperature gauge for the water would drop right down and my EGTs would go up big time. I was seeing a 200F change in EGTs with the intercooler working and a very noticable change in power.
 
suggestion:
when shipping to Canada, PLEASE do not ship UPS. each part that comes in from the States cost $148 for customs clearence!!!
so far for Brian's BJ42 kit it has been $300 in UPS charges alone. it hurts.
USPS works very well and is just about as fast.

cheers
Wayne
 
Never been on the dyno. Maybe one day but it's really not a priority for me.

Interesting thing - the water pump for my water-air intercooler was going on and off this past week when I was driving the Coquihalla. I don't know yet whether it was electrical or if the pump is dying from being run dry a while back. It's strange that it keeps turning itself on and off...

I could tell when it was not working because the temperature gauge for the water would drop right down and my EGTs would go up big time. I was seeing a 200F change in EGTs with the intercooler working and a very noticable change in power.

What water pump are you running? I have the Bosch Cobra one and it seems to be holding up. Also, do you have a separate coolant reservoir?
 
GTurbo turbos just got some attitude:

New range of turbos are available as of new week, all with extended tip compressor technology on comp wheels, all comp wheels chemically treated to reduce cracks and crack propogation, allowing higher rpm amd pressures. All Turbos Happy at the standard waste gate setting of 11-14psi and deliver early boost response. Figures below are indications of maximum attainable pressure and performance.

Grunter Stage 2:

Now capable of up to 215whp and 25psi throughout the rev range..... Revised turbine design for higher flow

Bad Boy:

Badder than ever, more turbine flow and higher compressor efficiency.... 245whp, 29psi throughout the rev range, revised turbine for higher flow.

Head Kicker:

Newest in the group, 35psi throughout rev range, up to 280whp
 
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Time for you to start a transmission upgrade company to complement those?
 
Time for you to start a transmission upgrade company to complement those?

A few days ago I finally found the time to get my 100 series running. It is due for a big trip to the great North WA towing a caravan on the Gibb River Road. Recently I have said that I suspected my transmission died and also the diff. Well, certainly the removing 4 teeth of the ring gear of the rear diff was a failure, but the A750F lives on, and in fact is very good, if not perfect after towing a 4 tonne caravan 10,500km with 750nm on tap (I detuned it from the initial ~ 850nm). The gear changes are very firm, far exceeding std (it has a shift kit installed).

Electronic interception of the A750F for all my turbo and chip installs begins this week, starting with my vehicle. I am satisfied now that they are reliable with 700nm of torque. 850..., time will tell. It may be prudent to tune to 700nm and try and maintain that torque level to 3000rpm before tapering off. This will help with transmission life.

As for the A442F, some (on this forum only as far as I can tell, and only outside of Oz) are reporting issues with the Wholesale automatic upgrades.... I havent experienced this myself and I have been invloved in 4 only - all perfect. All handle an engine tunes to 25psi and 200whp without fault. One was with 30psi and 240whp and the driver was crazy and that performs floorlessly...

In the USA, there is a company (IPT) that offers upgrades to the A750F, carbon fibre clutch in the torque converter etc. I will experiment with mine more. I have found an issue with the "flex lockup" that Toyota implemented. It is a state where the clutch in the torque converter is partially engaged and is meant for low torque conditions to remove the "clunk".

What happened was it would try and instigate "flex lockup" at low throttle positions where I had tuned the engine to deliver alot more fuel (to enable torque without kickdown). This is BAD, very BAD.... Anyway, I am removing flex lockup electronically (this is a 4wd, not a smooth sedan) and alterining line pressure as additional torque over std is experienced. I am 100% confident in this solution and it will be mandatory for all 100 series that I tune.

Another upgrade is to lower the stall speed on the torque converter. This is a good option on any auto diesel with performance upgrades. IPT do this service too.

Manuals havent been any problem thus far
 
Bad Boy:

Badder than ever, more turbine flow and higher compressor efficiency.... 245whp, 29psi throughout the rev range, revised turbine for higher flow.

now you come with that .. :mad: 28PSI sounds like my number .. while 35PSI it's way to much to me .. but wonder if for those PSI numbers we still have enough fuel stock IP and injectors wise .?

I mean after tweaked IP fuel and aneroid ..
 
What water pump are you running? I have the Bosch Cobra one and it seems to be holding up. Also, do you have a separate coolant reservoir?

Mine is an older Bosch unit (p/n 0 392 020 034). It came with the Denco kit about 5 years ago. I can't find any info on it so I have no idea how the flow rate compares to the Cobra (317gph).

I have a Cobra on order from Summit. Should be a direct swap with the same electrical connector and everything.
 
Interesting, I just might have to start hunting around scrap yards for one of those transmissions.

A750F

5 Speed Automatic Transmission(4x4)

Applications:

2003+ 4Runner (4x4)
2005+ Tacoma (V6 4x4)
2009 FJ Cruiser (Canada V6 4x4)
2003-2009 GX 470 (4x4)
2003-2007 LX 470 (4x4)
2005- Land Cruiser Prado 3.0 D4D (4x4) European version
2005 - Fortuner 4.0L
2005+ Hilux 4x4 (European Version Only), 1ST 3.520/2ND 2.042/3RD 1.400/4TH 1.000/5th 0.716/Rev 3.224/Final Drive 3.583


Would they be a somewhat direct swap with the A440 and transfercase? This should probably be another thread.....
 
Interesting, I just might have to start hunting around scrap yards for one of those transmissions.

A750F

5 Speed Automatic Transmission(4x4)

Applications:

2003+ 4Runner (4x4)
2005+ Tacoma (V6 4x4)
2009 FJ Cruiser (Canada V6 4x4)
2003-2009 GX 470 (4x4)
2003-2007 LX 470 (4x4)
2005- Land Cruiser Prado 3.0 D4D (4x4) European version
2005 - Fortuner 4.0L
2005+ Hilux 4x4 (European Version Only), 1ST 3.520/2ND 2.042/3RD 1.400/4TH 1.000/5th 0.716/Rev 3.224/Final Drive 3.583


Would they be a somewhat direct swap with the A440 and transfercase? This should probably be another thread.....

Have fun with the electronics :p
 
It may be prudent to tune to 700nm and try and maintain that torque level to 3000rpm before tapering off. This will help with transmission life.

Just to put those numbers into perspective.
700Nm at 3000rpm is 220kw at the crank (297hp).

:steer:
 
Graeme's making one up for me now, 20 psi at the high altitudes that I drive (7,000ft max). Looking forward to seeing how it goes. Do you guys recommend replacing the big end bearings? Not been done as far as I know, 240,000 km Japanese import, last 100k driven by me and religiously replaced oil and filters every 5k km. Most garages here are reluctant to reach things that aren't broken yet...
 
Graeme's making one up for me now, 20 psi at the high altitudes that I drive (7,000ft max). Looking forward to seeing how it goes. Do you guys recommend replacing the big end bearings? Not been done as far as I know, 240,000 km Japanese import, last 100k driven by me and religiously replaced oil and filters every 5k km. Most garages here are reluctant to repair/replace things that aren't broken yet...
 
jamcorse said:
Graeme's making one up for me now, 20 psi at the high altitudes that I drive (7,000ft max). Looking forward to seeing how it goes. Do you guys recommend replacing the big end bearings? Not been done as far as I know, 240,000 km Japanese import, last 100k driven by me and religiously replaced oil and filters every 5k km. Most garages here are reluctant to repair/replace things that aren't broken yet...

Should have been done yesterday IMO, I wouldn't spend money on a nice turbo only to have your BEB's go a few k later.

I did it myself in a weekend, not hard at all to do, and cheaper.... But there are plenty of threads on that.
 
gbentink said:
Head Kicker:

Newest in the group, 35psi throughout rev range, up to 280whp

Now this sounds interesting!

Graeme can you work with me to develop a turbo powered tyre inflation system please....
Bare with me whilst I explain the concept.

Just thinking about the Hummer with its tyre inflation deflation on the go system, retrofitting it to Landcruisers and matching that with your Head Kicker turbo.
Instead of stopping for a cup of tea to air up the tyres after a trip to the sandunes, you'd just flick a switch to inflate the tyres, plant your foot to give maximum boost, and the tyres would inflate nice and quickly. Super cool.

Alternatively a budget model would be four air lines attached to the intercooler outlet, to give cooler air, and each air line would go to a tyre and you'd air up whilst stationary. We'd have to work out a way of providing maximum boost for a little while whilst the vehicle was standing still, but with a bit of R and D this is highly feasible i would think. Can you work out how much air is produced by the turbo at 35psi and how much air would be needed to increase four 265/75/16 tyres from 14psi to 35psi please. This way we can work out how long we'd need to have max boost to pump up the tyres.

If you do that, I'll work on the marketing strategy and calculate how much users will save in not having to buy a battery connect air compressor......

How does that sound?

Tim :)

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
I would have thought the natural progresion of this whould have been to offer a matched fuel pin for the boost compensator, Instead of just letting the purchaser work this bit out for him self With bits of info nicked from other forums.

It has been suggested by a diesel tuner that the valves will have trouble closing with 35lbs boost.

Hamo
 
It has been suggested by a diesel tuner that the valves will have trouble closing with 35lbs boost.

Hamo

Floating valves with just boost appears difficult. Because the pressure in the cylinder at all points in the cycle is higher (exhaust stroke too) the pressure difference across the valve isn't much different.

With an exhaust brake it's quite different, they are great at floating valves.
 
Floating valves with just boost appears difficult. Because the pressure in the cylinder at all points in the cycle is higher (exhaust stroke too) the pressure difference across the valve isn't much different.

With an exhaust brake it's quite different, they are great at floating valves.
With a valve thats open, there is no cylinder pressure.
Nicked from the work shop manual
Using a spring tester, measure the tension of the valve
spring at the specified installed length.
Installed tension:
237 - 263 N (24.2 - 26.8 kgt. 53.4 - 59.1 Ibt)
at 39.5 mm (1.555 in.)
If the installed tension is not as specified. replace the
valve spring.

With a valve seat pressure of just 53 - 59lbs this has some merrit.

But as i said 1 would have thought the natural progression would have been new fuel pins for the boost compensator, Supplied with the turbo.

Hamo
 

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