'93 HDJ81 - Turbo Upgrades and More

[GreenPump]

This summer, I acquired a 1993 HDJ81. Relatively high mileage at time of purchase, approximately 400,000 kms. I have several early and mid-90s Hilux, but this is my first 80 series. My initial impressions of the rig are very positive. More roomy and powerful than my other trucks, rides nice, and is happy at 120km/hr on the highway (will easily do 80mph which is the highway speed limit in these parts). The fuel consumption, however, is less than ideal. I struggle to get 250 miles out of a tank. Fuel capacity seems to be around 25 gallons. Plenty of grey/black smoke on startup, some grey/black smoke on heavy acceleration, nothing I would deem unusual for a diesel. Truck appears to have the "cold weather" package, although is not marked "snow version" like some others. Heated seats, fuel heater, and the weird blind which can be pulled down over the radiator. Starts on the first crank so far every time, we have had a few close to zero degrees F days, but nothing deep in the negatives yet. No obvious blow-by.

I performed the following maintenance items after purchasing the rig. Everything appeared to be kept up on, aside from BEBs, which were close to delamination.

• BEBs - ACL bearings & Conrod Bolts
• Transmission Maintenance (A442F Electronic)
  • All four solenoids replaced
  • Strainer replaced
  • Drain & refill with Redline DT4 ATF
• Front & Rear diff drain and refill with Amsoil SVG 75w90
• Transfer case drain and refill with Amsoil SVG 75w90
• Fuel filter & Petcock replaced
• Timing belt
• Water pump
• Glow plugs
• Engine air filter
• Oil Change & Filter - Amsoil Signature Diesel 15W40
• Grease all zerks (Driveshaft, spider joints, etc)
• Fluid film undercarriage for wintertime

As of this weekend, I pulled my turbo. Replacing the old and tired toyota CT26, which now has 420,000kms, has been on my radar for a bit. The stock turbo is beginning to leak fairly significantly into the intake side, and I am noticing oil coating the intake side of the block. However, I do not have any noticeable oil consumption on the dipstick. There does not seem to be excessive crankcase pressure.

I have read several threads on Mud about turbo kits; there are a plethora of options. But I am not sure if I have yet to come across my specific situation. I would like advice from those of you that have extensive experience in this area.

I am looking for a reliable setup which can bolt on to my stock exhaust and manifold with minimal or no modification. I would like to keep stock injectors and pump, although I understand I will need to tune my pump. Cost is a factor here; that being said, I would rather pay more for a reputable setup. I have looked at the PDI intercooler/airbox, but I do not know how important this really is. I would rather avoid the intercooler if it is not necessary. I have also considered having a local machine shop rebuild the stock turbo, I'm not sure if anyone has gone that route. I do a fair amount of towing, lots of highway driving, and I am almost exclusively at altitudes >5000ft.

Right now the Gturbo G300 green wheel seems like an attractive choice. I have ordered from HD Automotive in Australia in the past, but it looks like the kits can also be bought directly from Gturbo. Is there an American distributor? Kinugawa also seems like an "ok" option, but I am hesistant to put chinese/taiwanese parts on my rig.

Thoughts?

 

[svsisu]

I didn't know this was an option... I found a couple Australian offroad sites advertising it for the 1HDT though...

What modifications required to fit it to stock manifold

@davegonz put one on his 1HZ 80 series. A manifold to turbo adapter is required- There's a company in Louisiana (https://customfabshop.com/) that makes a nice thin one. He had some issues with the waste gate clearing the motor mount, but it was fairly easily solved. Some good info on the installation and where to get a genuine Hx30W here:

From Poverty Packin to Betty White: 1992 HZJ80

It's been a couple of months now since I purchased Galen's @bottombracket 1992 HZJ80 from him. I have done some minor upgrades and plan on some big ones, so it was time to start my own build thread. Here's Galen's original build thread that talks about how she came to the US: Builds - Poverty...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[GreenPump]

 

[GreenPump]

After reading Dave's thread, this seems like a pretty cool option. Unless I can find a decent CT26 to rebuild... looks like the cracked turbine housing is shared on almost all ive looked at now.

Few practical questions as far as the HX30 goes. This turbo is oil-cooled only, correct? So I would be blocking off the coolant lines on the exhaust side of my engine which originally fed the CT26. HX30 is very reasonably priced, less than $600 for a new one shipped ground from Benzforce in Texas. As far as the boost actuator goes, Dave seems to be under the impression the stock setting is 20 psi? This is too high for my application, without an intercooler. I want to stay around 15psi as suggested by several of you.

Connecting the block drain for me will be different, Dave welded in a bung, however I already have a stock drain and oil feed.

I talked with a local fabricator about the manifold, he could build me a new manifold to suit the HX30, the stock crossover pipe with 'Turbo' printed on it is way too sweet to get rid of. I think a custom manifold would also solve the space problem. I am NOT taking a grinder to my engine mount.

Thoughts....?

 

[KiwiDingo]

Yes, HX30 doesn't need water. In fact, the CT26 doesn't either. Journal bearing turbos on diesels don't need water cooling. You can just loop your current coolant lines or cap them off.

Saying you can't run more than 15psi without an intercooler is bul1sh1t. You can run 20-30psi all day long with zero issues without one. It's all in the tune.

 

[svsisu]

After reading Dave's thread, this seems like a pretty cool option. Unless I can find a decent CT26 to rebuild... looks like the cracked turbine housing is shared on almost all ive looked at now.

Few practical questions as far as the HX30 goes. This turbo is oil-cooled only, correct? So I would be blocking off the coolant lines on the exhaust side of my engine which originally fed the CT26. HX30 is very reasonably priced, less than $600 for a new one shipped ground from Benzforce in Texas. As far as the boost actuator goes, Dave seems to be under the impression the stock setting is 20 psi? This is too high for my application, without an intercooler. I want to stay around 15psi as suggested by several of you.

Connecting the block drain for me will be different, Dave welded in a bung, however I already have a stock drain and oil feed.

I talked with a local fabricator about the manifold, he could build me a new manifold to suit the HX30, the stock crossover pipe with 'Turbo' printed on it is way too sweet to get rid of. I think a custom manifold would also solve the space problem. I am NOT taking a grinder to my engine mount.

Thoughts....?

The HX30 is very reasonably priced and is a better turbo for these engines over the old, stock CT26. Yes, there are some hurdles to overcome with an install of a Holset, but overall a very good alternative.

If you want some more Holset intel, @FJBen installed a HE221 on his 13BT and has a lot of good general info starting about here:

Builds - 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”

Sorry to hear about your Dad’s passing @FJBen. I hope you could spend good time together in his last few days. Sending good thoughts your way. Let us know when you are in the area next time. It would be great to meet in person. Thanks for that it definitely would be great to meet in person...

forum.ih8mud.com

You can also control the boost by moderating your throttle-just because the waste gate doesn't open until 20 or so doesn't mean you will be getting boost that high under most conditions.

A custom manifold would likely solve the fitment issues in regards to the engine mount and waste gate actuator. I believe Whistle and Soot in Australia make a manifold that solves this problem.

 

[davegonz]

The grinding on my thread was to the metal shield piece. No engine mounts were harmed.

 

[GreenPump]

The grinding on my thread was to the metal shield piece. No engine mounts were harmed.

My bad.

How are things holding up with the holset?

 

[davegonz]

No issues.

Just to add to the discussion, I also turbo'd my 1HZ in a 60 I converted and used a turbo from a 1HD-FT. That turbo was really nice and spooled up fast. @mudgudgeon was the one that recommended it to me.

 

[franklin40]

i had my ct 26 rebuilt with the supra wheel and ceramic coated. i ran it for a couple years but wanted more so i bought a Gturbo green wheel. its a better turbo if your willing to pay the money. it’s an easy bolt on and i really love it but to really get the best bang for your buck you’ve got to add more fuel. adding more boost with out fuel gains you nothing power wise. more fuel means more heat and to deal with that an intercooler is a good idea. yes you can run lots of boost and no fuel and not have heat issues but then you’ve spent money on a turbo your really not using.

i still have the rebuilt ct26 and will sell if interested. it’s better than stock but not as good as the Gturbo but it will be cheaper and bolts right on

 

[Dougal]

Gturbo is going to be your best option. The HX30 is going to be a solid option but with caveats.

1. Not a bolt on at all.
2. There are many HX30's. Make sure you get the right one.
3. 20psi boost isn't a problem and at your altitude is a good thing.

 

[GreenPump]

Thanks to all who chipped with advice. I ended up buying a new bolt-on turbo from Arashi Dynamics. After doing some more digging, I found the HD Automotive sells this turbo, along with the UFI and G-Turbo stuff. This was of some comfort to me over the other Taiwan turbos (Mambatech/Kinugawa). I reached out to Arashi by email, and told them I wanted to get my hands on the turbo by Christmas. For no extra charge, they fedexed it to me and it was on my doorstep in four days.

I will install this the first week of January and keep you all updated. If I blow this one up, I will be looking at other options. 1.1 Bar spring is installed in the actuator by default, but there was a bunch of extra springs included with the turbo. I was honestly pretty impressed with the packaging job. The casting of compressor/turbine housing looks very good - better than my factory turbo which has some larger seams/rough areas.

My injectors are still down at Gillett diesel in SLC - they ordered new tips from Bosche. Total bill for rebuild comes to $880usd which I think is pretty reasonable. I also received a big order from the UAE yesterday - lots of parts. Valve shims, gaskets, and a bunch of odds and ends to finish up the valve clearances, turbo install, and injectors.

 

[GreenPump]

Here is a side by side comparison of the Arashi CT26/CT20B with the original toyota CT26.

I will be posting more on this thread after the Holidays.

Merry Christmas!

 

[Miloslavich]

This is Very nice. I wish i had a diesel 80 with one of these!

 

[GreenPump]

Ok, so holidays are over and I'm back in the shop.

Injector seats I ordered look different than the ones I pulled out. Greyish aluminum looking vs the old copper seats I pulled out.

I have heard injector seat thickness was increased after the first few years of production on 1HDT . However mine being a 93 it should already have the thicker seat.

Is there any notable difference here?

 

[GreenPump]

Update:

Turbo is in. Valve job is done. Injectors were rebuilt and are in.

First impressions: turbo is working as intended. It was very easy to install and it fit without modification. I pre-filled it with oil. I re-used the original oil and coolant fittings.

As some had mentioned digging out and replacing the rings on the two-part exhaust manifold sucked. My shop is heated by an old wood stove, so I stuck the manifold in there until it was **HOT** and then chiseled the rings out.

 

[GreenPump]

Here is the Arashi turbo staged on the truck:

I saw a YouTube video where a dude in Australia tried to install one of these kits, and the actuator bracket was too big. Arashi seems to have addressed this issue. The bracket fits, it is tight, but does not touch the block.

Driving the truck, it isn't a huge difference from the factory turbo. I haven't touched my fuel screw at all. But, the exhaust seems to have cleaned up significantly. Since I am not running an EGT or boost gauge, my only indication is the factory boost lights. Orange light comes on if you put some foot into it, if you are passing on the highway pulling up a hill etc. Green Light is coming on at maybe 1300rpm. Maybe a bit quicker spool up than factory but not crazy.

It's hard to tell because I've done soooo much work, but something isn't quite 100% with the way it idles. If I shift into drive and let the truck creep forward, there is a weird shudder. Like it's about to die. Give a bit of gas immediately cleans up. Also the idle seems kinda low. I may have to mess around and check the FSM to see the idle and A/C idle up for 1HDT.

I still have ACSD installed... gross.

Oh, and it seems like a job well done by Gillet Diesel in SLC. These are the injectors when I picked em up..

Anyway I've got a few kinks to work out, need to drive the truck a bit too.

 

[GreenPump]

Another update, I did a cold start and drove to work this morning. It was 10 degrees F this morning. Ran the glow plugs, turned key, truck fires right up on the first crank like usual.

All diesels will sound like s*** at 10 degrees, but it's particularly bad since I've had everything apart. Sounds like air is getting in somewhere. Knock at idle, lots of smoke til it warms up. Goes away soon as the turbo kicks in. Drives GREAT.

What is the preferred method to bleed air from the pump/injector lines on 1HDT.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Not sure on the air in the lines, (14BT you crack the lines and crank until fuel comes out of all of them, then tighten injector fitting) but I installed an external coolant heater on my 14BT and that helped the rough cold starts a lot. I've got it plugged into a programable outlet that turns on at 0400, a couple hours before I usually start it. WiFi outlets can be programmed and controlled from your phone as well.

 

[GreenPump]

I recently installed a zerostart circulating heater. This should definitely help. My main concern is just a notable difference from prior to turbo/injectors/valve job. The cold starts were a bit smoky and loud, but now it's much worse.

 

[mudgudgeon]

What is the preferred method to bleed air from the pump/injector lines on 1HDT.

My experience and $0.02 on these diesels, any air in the lines will clear up with a few minutes of driving.

If you still have air in fuel lines after a drive to work, you're getting air in constantly somewhere.

Did you disturb any old rubber lines? Old lines don't reseal well if you disconnected/reconnected any.

Could also be down to the primer pump. If it hasn't been used in s long time, and you used it just recently, could have just been its time to give up.