gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mountain Goat
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tranny upgrades ? was wondering when guys were going to feel the shudder, i have had to detune mine drastically fuel and boost . i will say that i am still able to drive around and 4x4 still though ,but i am limited to way less fuel and 27 pounds boost max. carbon fiber plates? well i am glad to see your researching the tranny issues on the 750 ,do you not sell alot of turbos for the 442. being that these coming to light relativly cheap hp rxd has way surpassed the stockish tranny and that is not even putting anything into a turbo upgrade.
It's very complicated, but I don't think boost alone floats valves as boost increases the pressure on both sides of the valve at all points in the cycle.
With higher boost you get higher pressures in the cylinder during intake, compression and exhaust. These counter the extra pressure on the other side of the valve.
It's strange; the wholesale automatics valve body upgrade has been fine every time for me and anyone locally I know that has one....increased torque and all.... So I suggest that as an upgrade. I suspect though, that folks having trouble already had a damaged trans that no valve body upgrade will fix. The clutch packs loose their overslept packed length, this affects engagement rates etc and it's a downhill slide to a rebuild. Get it right in the beginning and my experience is the trans lives on.
Actually...... I lowered the stall speed on my converter as well, this will help reduce the torque multiplying effect, so it's another worthy change. I don't reccomend it though unless your turbo builds nice boost without being forced by a rich air fuel ratio..... Because the low stall speed increases the low rpm torque requirement. What I mean, is if you increase the fuel to get a STD CT26 to respond well with a low stall converter it will smoke much more on take off
Actually...... I lowered the stall speed on my converter as well, this will help reduce the torque multiplying effect, so it's another worthy change. I don't reccomend it though unless your turbo builds nice boost without being forced by a rich air fuel ratio..... Because the low stall speed increases the low rpm torque requirement. What I mean, is if you increase the fuel to get a STD CT26 to respond well with a low stall converter it will smoke much more on take off
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only smoke coming out my back end is tire smoke . my ct26 like yours is not std either.im hear for the trany upgrades, not a pissing match sorry ,i hear, you too, have a good product ,period. adam b uses the same tuner ateb for tunig sometimes . im quite surprised he is not at the shudder point in his tranny yet.
I'm my tuner, by the way. 
I've talked to the guys at ATEB lots and if I need anyone other than myself to do work on my truck that's where I go. Anything performance related I've done myself. I could probably get more out of my truck with expert help but I prefer to fully understand what's been done and why.
George - I also wonder whether you just have a transmission that has problems. Maybe they just became more noticable as you added power. From what I hear you have one of the highest performance 1HD-Ts around BC but there have to be a bunch of others in the world who are in the same category as you. But I haven't heard of other people experiencing the same problems as you...
I've talked to the guys at ATEB lots and if I need anyone other than myself to do work on my truck that's where I go. Anything performance related I've done myself. I could probably get more out of my truck with expert help but I prefer to fully understand what's been done and why.
George - I also wonder whether you just have a transmission that has problems. Maybe they just became more noticable as you added power. From what I hear you have one of the highest performance 1HD-Ts around BC but there have to be a bunch of others in the world who are in the same category as you. But I haven't heard of other people experiencing the same problems as you...
yes i am coming to the conclusion that my tranny needs some work,but it is kind of funny that as ateb increases his hp mods on other trucks the same thing happens , wether it is a rebiult tranny with the wholesale v/b or not .the only one that has not shuddered is the complete extreme wholesale tranny. how is your turbo settup now ? i heard you were going to rework you inter cooler pipes,made a huge improvement on mine. i missed you a couple of weeks ago, kind of would like to campare settups sometime. i might try tweeking the converter only ,just to see if that is the week link.
I've been having some tranny shudders/noise etc. on a hard take off as well since the performance additions. No problems if I keep my right foot light, but where's the fun in that?
Jeff, increase the line pressure by adjusting the kickdown cable with more off throttle tension. It does makes it kick down earlier which can be annoying but better than a dead trans. Adjust aneroid tension vs kickdown tension. If shudders too much, try pulling kickdown cable out 4mm as a starting point. If the engine response is too aggressive at just over light throttle, either raise tension on aneroid spring which softens the boost and fuel response and/or rotate aneroid pin to allow more initial depression with the pin follower riding on the flat (ie before it hits taper).
If that needs more explanation I'll try again. I'm on the train right now with iPhone....
If that needs more explanation I'll try again. I'm on the train right now with iPhone....
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I think the day you just missed me was the day I was talking to John and Phillip about my intercooler pipes. My setup is far from optimal because the air-water IC I used is pretty big and can't sit right on top of the valve cover so it's over top of the exhaust manifold. I'm still using the Denco goose neck that goes up from the turbo, then does a 90 degree bend and another 180 degrees to point into the IC. After the IC it goes into the other Denco intake adapter which had a fairly tight bend in it. It's going to take some work to redo it and I just don't have the time. It's good enough for now but they felt that there's a lot to be gained by improving it - and they said that it made a big difference on yours. I probably have to cut off the end tanks on the IC and redo those to make it work.
Are you using air-water or air-air?
Did you do anything with the top of the air filter canister? It squeezes into a pretty tight bend there too, although I don't know if the turbo is actually sucking vacuum or not. Maybe one more thing I have to test....
Got mine in a couple of weeks ago on my 1HD-T, and been playing with the settings.
Up a little boost, up a little fuel. I've been upping the fuel 1/4 turn at a time but I realized today that I hit "that" point of diminishing returns. I just turned it up another 1/4 turn and noticed no more black smoke (and remembered that the last turn I didn't see any more either). I turned it back a 1/2 turn and now I'm back in black.
I understand that this is the aneroid (sp?) issue.
Other than buying the store-bought fuel rod (TOYOTA LANDCRUISER Zeal Power Rod- 1HDT | 4wheel Auto) is there another solution?
Craig.
Up a little boost, up a little fuel. I've been upping the fuel 1/4 turn at a time but I realized today that I hit "that" point of diminishing returns. I just turned it up another 1/4 turn and noticed no more black smoke (and remembered that the last turn I didn't see any more either). I turned it back a 1/2 turn and now I'm back in black.
I understand that this is the aneroid (sp?) issue.
Other than buying the store-bought fuel rod (TOYOTA LANDCRUISER Zeal Power Rod- 1HDT | 4wheel Auto) is there another solution?
Craig.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
damn .. 295 .. !
I fail to see any advantage in buying an aftermarket rod......
There is only so far the aneroid pin profile follower can travel - hardly further than the max travel a std rod can give if set to the maximum fuel position.
All those power pins I see do is suddenly dump fuel once boost gets up which gives the "feel" of a big performance gain.... The ones I have seen typically have a very steep initial slope over ~ 3mm and the slope angle reduces for the remainder 7mm or so.
All vehicles behave a little differently. I tune some and the off boost fuel gets too high no matter where the pin is positioned when the main screw is wound in a heap. As a result, I wind the pretension up alot and rotate the pin to ride on the flat fo the first 3-4mm and on to a custom slope I grind in. This does wonders for the smoke and top end is still there.
Pump wear is a huge factor. in how the tune needs to be effected.
There is only so far the aneroid pin profile follower can travel - hardly further than the max travel a std rod can give if set to the maximum fuel position.
All those power pins I see do is suddenly dump fuel once boost gets up which gives the "feel" of a big performance gain.... The ones I have seen typically have a very steep initial slope over ~ 3mm and the slope angle reduces for the remainder 7mm or so.
All vehicles behave a little differently. I tune some and the off boost fuel gets too high no matter where the pin is positioned when the main screw is wound in a heap. As a result, I wind the pretension up alot and rotate the pin to ride on the flat fo the first 3-4mm and on to a custom slope I grind in. This does wonders for the smoke and top end is still there.
Pump wear is a huge factor. in how the tune needs to be effected.
crushers
post ho
hummm, seems to confirm my suspicions about that fuel power rod ...
sailor
Jackass of all trades
Well I drove my hdj for 2 yrs 40K KM without rod/ tune - daily driver and then down to Death Valley/ Mojave area amongst other wheeling roadtrips, and then 1 year 25K KM with the rod/tune including the Moab/ Kokopelli trail road trip and can report that there is a difference in more than just initial roll on power.. The tuning is, of course, vitally important as Graeme notes. Sorry Crushers, gotta disagree. The guy with the same truck , same mod, that went on both these long trips with me would concur with my statement as well..
The point is, there's nothing the $300 rod can do that you can't do by modifying your own rod. You could copy it exactly if you want. The better choice is NOT copying it exactly.
Once you truly understand what's going on, it's pretty clear that you have more freedom if you just modify yours to do exactly what you want, when you want.
I can't say it any better than Graeme.
When I started messing with mine I quickly realized that I wanted the greatest range of travel possible for the follower pin. That means off boost rides on the flat and full fuel has the pin at its maximum travel so the rod isn't limiting it any more. There's no value in grinding deeper than that. In between those two points all that's left is the slope(s) you choose to grind and how you play around with spring tension to control how quickly the rod reacts to boost. It's just a balancing act at that point...
Once you truly understand what's going on, it's pretty clear that you have more freedom if you just modify yours to do exactly what you want, when you want.
I can't say it any better than Graeme.
When I started messing with mine I quickly realized that I wanted the greatest range of travel possible for the follower pin. That means off boost rides on the flat and full fuel has the pin at its maximum travel so the rod isn't limiting it any more. There's no value in grinding deeper than that. In between those two points all that's left is the slope(s) you choose to grind and how you play around with spring tension to control how quickly the rod reacts to boost. It's just a balancing act at that point...
sailor
Jackass of all trades
Well Adam, feel free to play around with 'your own rod' as much as you like, but please leave mine alone. (lol)
adam mine is an mangled older supra air to air , and yes i cut my intake opening up inside the fender and it was starving with the stock filter ,k&n now, still needs more air from the filter side i feel. hmmm... on the rod ,thats all i can say on that one.
