gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (2 Viewers)

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I'm off to United Fuel Injection this afternoon to spin the 1HDFT in 4 wheels drive on 35" tyres. The damaged auto has been replaced with a top spec'd $6k box from Wholesale Automatics, boost is an a crazy 27+psi and the low and midrange torque is electrifying. I went for a drive last night and it makes my 1HDFTE 100 series (its a quick-one with monster intercooler) seem like a 3 liter diesel Nissan Patrol... Best of all, it is so creamy the way the torque is delievered; like its a silky smooth 8 liter plus motor.

Also the engine is so mechanically quiet!

No kidding, I am still so excited I keep thinking about searching the classifieds for an 80 series for sale......... I love the simplicity and fuel capabilities of the stock VE pump!!!!
 
I'm off to United Fuel Injection this afternoon to spin the 1HDFT in 4 wheels drive on 35" tyres. The damaged auto has been replaced with a top spec'd $6k box from Wholesale Automatics, boost is an a crazy 27+psi and the low and midrange torque is electrifying. I went for a drive last night and it makes my 1HDFTE 100 series (its a quick-one with monster intercooler) seem like a 3 liter diesel Nissan Patrol... Best of all, it is so creamy the way the torque is delievered; like its a silky smooth 8 liter plus motor.

Also the engine is so mechanically quiet!

No kidding, I am still so excited I keep thinking about searching the classifieds for an 80 series for sale......... I love the simplicity and fuel capabilities of the stock VE pump!!!!

As part of my swap I'm going with the Wholesale Automatic's VB (along w/a temp gauge), I hope it's going to be enough to make my trans last. As it's would hit the pocket book hard to upgrade the whole trans right after the swap:)

But 27 lbs of boost, oh my! I can't what to read the out come!!! We'll have to see how high I'm able to go with the CrossCountry 4x4 mount:)
 
Well here it is folks, genuine 92kW @ wheels....

Well it did 120 then dropped to 92... Also would only boost to 24psi...we scratched our heads.

First thing was the air filter had been changed today to be a rather large Donaldson... guess what, it was rated at something like 180cfm. removing it put the boost at 3000rpm up to 30psi. Now that is a good outcome, but power was unchanged.

AFRs were so high the gauge wouldn't read them because it was so lean that it was outside its range.

Then we realised that one of the fuel tanks on the 80 was empty - you must not ever (if you have a twin tank system) run one dry as it will still suck a little air from the dry tank.

So.... we drove home quite deflated.... Owner flys out to work on mines for 2 weeks tomorrow so it will be ~ 2.5 weeks before I can have another shot.

On the upside - we proved 30psi @ 3000rpm So the turbo is good for the business and sounded perfect - not that I recommend it, but it can do it!
 
let me get this straight.
you got 24 psi and 92 kW with only 180 CFM flow?

that answers my question as to whether a stock factory snorkel will work properly for a turbo'd 1HZ running 14 boost.

cheers and wicked read.
 
I've often wondered how much air a Safari Snorkel and stock air filter can flow.

4.2L engine at 4000rpm = 237 CFM no boost

My 21psi = 2.43 PR (pressure ratio)

2.43 * 237 = 576 CFM (this would be my theoretical max CFM required to hold 21psi to 4000rpm)

I haven't really checked how my boost drops off above 3500rpm because I never really need to go beyond that. Pretty sure I start to run out of something before I get to 3500, though. Without running it on a dyno or monitoring AFRs I don't know if I would run out of fuel or not (given current pump settings).

Here's what I do know - to hold 21psi @ 3000rpm I need 432 CFM. That much I know I can flow.
 
let me get this straight.
you got 24 psi and 92 kW with only 180 CFM flow?

that answers my question as to whether a stock factory snorkel will work properly for a turbo'd 1HZ running 14 boost.

cheers and wicked read.

This is good news. I ordered a 10in safari pre-cleaner. I hope to boost at about 14-15psi down the road and I am glad to know it will work just fine. Wooo hoo
 
let me get this straight.
you got 24 psi and 92 kW with only 180 CFM flow?

that answers my question as to whether a stock factory snorkel will work properly for a turbo'd 1HZ running 14 boost.

cheers and wicked read.

This particular (impressively large...) Donaldson filter is only rated at 185cfm.... but that is at some std measuring vacuum, so it will flow more than that with a higher vacuum. Poor turbo probably overspeeding trying to suck the air.... Removing the filter put boost up 6psi!!!! Thats the worst filter ever that I have seen. Aparantly the best filter is the stock 100 series followed by the 80 series!

I didnt actually check the vehicle after all the changes were done yesterday (I was at work) - lesson for everyone - dont make a heap of changes and then drive to dyno - do some checks first!

It probably still would have done 130+kW @ wheels had there been fuel in the second fuel tank and the injection pump not been sucking air!!!! It was clean exhaust, well over 22:1 AFR.

This did 145kW at rear wheels last time with the "Grunter". It has considerably more power now and an even cleaner exhaust. I am very sure its over 170kW... probably 180.

But, last night after the dyno, the fuel tank was filled and the filter was replaced with a large "Pod"filter and the water/ethanol was turned on.

Let me tell you, 30psi of intercooled air + water/alcohol = VERY fast. I have no doubt at all under these conditions it is over 200kW at the wheels - and in 3 weeks I hope to have some real data... :)
 
For 1HZ @ 14psi, I wouldnt go less than a 300cfm rated filter. Ill check the calcs (too lazy now), but I reccomend 500cfm minimum for the Bad Boy

On standard Di engines and injection pumps, I typically design around the 3000 range.
 
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gbentink said:
For 1HZ @ 14psi, I wouldnt go less than a 300cfm rated filter. Ill check the calcs (too lazy now), but I reccomend 500cfm minimum for the Bad Boy

On standard Di engines and injection pumps, I typically design around the 3000 range.

The safari 10in precleaner is apparently rated to 450cfm

now you have the grunter and the bad boy turbos, what is the difference between the two?

What one is better fitted for the 1hz and why?

Has there been a consensus on max safe boost levels yet with the 1hz?
I hope to have a properly tuned setup with a boost comp on the pump

I want to have some power but still maintain excellent reliability
 
The safari 10in precleaner is apparently rated to 450cfm

now you have the grunter and the bad boy turbos, what is the difference between the two?

What one is better fitted for the 1hz and why?

Has there been a consensus on max safe boost levels yet with the 1hz?
I hope to have a properly tuned setup with a boost comp on the pump

I want to have some power but still maintain excellent reliability

Generally, an intercooled 14psi, 100rwkw and ~ 400nm @ crank is considered the safe limit on a stock 1HZ engine.

There is no reason to believe that a 1HZ with the IDI turbo piston and rod kit with some head cooling enhancements couldnt do as well or better than the TD42 Nissans which I have personally seen at 45psi.....900nm.....

The Grunter is a massive improvement on the std turbo, but it seems that testing is showing that the "Bad Boy" is outperfiorming the Grunter in the low and high end.... Which I must say is a bit of a suprise (low end response is suprisingly excellent).

So well behaved is the "Bad Boy" that it's more of a "Trained Athlete".... I almost have to rethink the names, as some may think they want a well behaved turbo and wont get that if they buy a "Bad Boy".

A few users will be posting over the next few weeks anyway, so it will be good to hear what they have to say.
 
Generally, an intercooled 14psi, 100rwkw and ~ 400nm @ crank is considered the safe limit on a stock 1HZ engine.

There is no reason to believe that a 1HZ with the IDI turbo piston and rod kit with some head cooling enhancements couldnt do as well or better than the TD42 Nissans which I have personally seen at 45psi.....900nm.....

The Grunter is a massive improvement on the std turbo, but it seems that testing is showing that the "Bad Boy" is outperfiorming the Grunter in the low and high end.... Which I must say is a bit of a suprise (low end response is suprisingly excellent).

So well behaved is the "Bad Boy" that it's more of a "Trained Athlete".... I almost have to rethink the names, as some may think they want a well behaved turbo and wont get that if they buy a "Bad Boy".

A few users will be posting over the next few weeks anyway, so it will be good to hear what they have to say.

Good to know, thanks for the comparison. Is there a point or a difference to running either the grunter or the bb on a 1hz?

I have read that 15psi really makes the 1hz come to life and make it quite fun. Hard to keep the tires from not spinning in first gear fun.
I was hoping to put it at that, but I want to keep it safe.

What are your reasons for using a boost compensator? Would your vehicle see alot of cruiser rpm between 0-5psi ?

What do you mean by cruiser rpm? As in cruising highway speed or the speed limit around town. Yes it would as its my daily driver.

The boost comp is supposed to give you a better tune with your turbo.
If set right isn't is allow you to not be over fueling before you hit the boost. :meh:

If I am going to go through the trouble of turboing my truck I want to do it 100% correctly and whats best for my vehicle in terms of longevity, reliability and performance.
 
Good to know, thanks for the comparison. Is there a point or a difference to running either the grunter or the bb on a 1hz?

I have read that 15psi really makes the 1hz come to life and make it quite fun. Hard to keep the tires from not spinning in first gear fun.
I was hoping to put it at that, but I want to keep it safe.

.

14psi, 15psi its hardly a difference, it doesnt magically come alive at 15. Many tunes epople do on 1HZ's are unsafe, so that "come alive" might not even be a safe tune.

I dont think at 15psi you would get much improvement from the Bad Boy vs the Grunter, so better to keep your $ for the difference. If you ever want to push it higher I would definately suggest the Bad Boy.
 
I am the exact same as ForealBoreal in what he is wanting out of his vehicle and the fact we drive the same rig (except his is white and with a bit of a lift). The information coming out of this thread is very helpful. I'm planning on next year to be ordering one of your turbos gbentink unless you have a whole kit by then in which case I might just do that.
 
I am the exact same as ForealBoreal in what he is wanting out of his vehicle and the fact we drive the same rig (except his is white and with a bit of a lift). The information coming out of this thread is very helpful. I'm planning on next year to be ordering one of your turbos gbentink unless you have a whole kit by then in which case I might just do that.

I hope to do the same, i am currently trying to figure out what size fitting sizes to add on isspro gauges, tapping into the oil pressure sensor and coolant lines.
I want to have everything in line and ready to put in before I start ripping stuff apart. I want to try and avoid a million little trips to the store hence me wanting to buy a complete kit.

Its just a matter of time until I can get my paws on one of these set ups
 
Well, its not released because I am too busy, but I have got most of 4 kits ready (one sold, there was 5...)

It isnt complete like many you can buy, but allows greater flexibility and it is has (at least in my opinion) a better sized turbo and includes:

* a Gturbo Grunter with all gaskets
* Genuine new from Toyota 1HDT exhaust manifold with new studs
* braided stainless oil lines including the correct fittings to tap into oil line and oil return to sump
* water lines, braided stainless with hose tails - you need to work out where to put them, or maybe not use at all - not really required on a diesel and my very first turbo was installed without water conected.

Things you would need to work out

* connect air filter to turbo
* connect pressure outlet to crossover pipe
* exhaust dump pipe (but studs and nuts are included)

There a few reasons why I chose to do it this way; primarily it is to allow the customer to add an intercooler or different exhaust dump or custom air filter etc etc.

Should be able to push up to 200whp with this setup with enough cool boost and fuel. And of course all power levels below this with great response.

Anyone interested can contact PM me.

Cheers,

I am the exact same as ForealBoreal in what he is wanting out of his vehicle and the fact we drive the same rig (except his is white and with a bit of a lift). The information coming out of this thread is very helpful. I'm planning on next year to be ordering one of your turbos gbentink unless you have a whole kit by then in which case I might just do that.
 
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Hey fellas, I got the GTurbo installed on my 1HZ while I was home this last trip so I'll share my experience so far.

Install:
The install was easy, only took a few hours. Graeme already had it clocked perfectly so I just had to transfer the exhaust elbow and a couple of caps/fittings from the other turbo and it bolted right up.

Results:
I only have basic analog gauges so I apologize in advance for a somewhat vague analysis, but I'll do my best to be substantive.

I took it for a spin after the install without a tune, and the waste gate set to 8psi. I am very pleased to see this turbo drop the boost threshold to around 1100-1200rpm, compared to 1500-1600rpm of the outgoing unit. Power delivery is also very smooth. After driving it for a couple days however, I did notice that this turbo runs a bit warmer. I was able to keep the max pre-turbo EGTs under 1000F by backing off a bit on long, steep climbs, but it also seems to generate higher temps sooner across the board. This was substantiated by warmer coolant temps as well. While I never overheated the turbo or the coolant, I think I potentially could if I didn't pay attention.

The first stab at the tune was admittedly blunt. I backed off the primary fuel volume in the IP by about 1/4 of a turn, which dropped the max EGTs into the 900Fs, but at the cost of a noticeable drop in power. Unfortunately, soon after this adjustment a rear caliper stuck, then my brake master cylinder failed and had to head back to work overseas.

Next Steps:
Here's where I'd like some input. A more delicate tune will probably help mitigate power loss while maintaining lower EGTs. I haven't touched the boost compensator yet. I also suspect a small bump in boost pressure may help as well, but need to keep it within reason with over 125k miles and stock internals. Ultimately, my goal is to maintain reliability and run conservative EGTs so I don't have to worry about overheating under normal driving conditions. Any tuning tips and thoughts on max boost are are appreciated!
 
14 psi
once you set that then tune the fuel to the pyro readings.
remember on the highway you will still run roughly 6-8 lbs
heavy acceleration will increase the boost but that will be seldom.
1000F preturbo is very safe setting and a few seconds at temps above that will not cook the engine, constant heat might.

remember, a pyro is a guideline.

what we need, and i keep forgetting to do this, is to test a stock engine with no turbo to see the EGTs that our engines live at before turbo.

i am sure G will have a much more tech and informative response.
 

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