- Thread starter
- #301
I am considering OE rims. I know they will work, and tires are still around. I have 33's on the pig now, and it looks like they would fit. I have two decent rims now.
GA 55 left in woods for 20 yrs- 10/73 model
- Thread starter Midgainc
- Start date
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Do you have close up pics of the rims that are on it, or came on it?
They look remarkably similar to what are on the '76.
I have extra OE rims, if interested in. They have a killer coating, compliments of the Lowe's latex paint aisle, still wrapped in rubber, but taking up space and I'm on a liquidation push.
- Thread starter
- #303
Here are the two spare tire rims that I have. I guess I need three more OEM rims to match them and have a decent spare. Actual condition is unknown. I will likely powder coat them when I get them all together. I am digging the look with the KM2 tires.
tucker74
Moderator
You'll likely want the later welded version of those wheels as opposed to the early riveted if you're planning on running front disk brakes. Those will require spacers and removing quite a bit of material from the calipers. Just giving the heads up before you spend a bunch of money blasting and coating them 
Tucker
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #305
I went back with the drums on the front. The drums were serviceable, and I didnt want to spend the $800 or more getting front disks. For the use that I will using it for, the drums will do the job. I plan on keeping it under a 100 when I drive it!
Also, got the master cylinders on today. It is nice to see something on the firewall for a change.
Also, got the master cylinders on today. It is nice to see something on the firewall for a change.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
You'll likely want the later welded version of those wheels as opposed to the early riveted if you're planning on running front disk brakes. Those will require spacers and removing quite a bit of material from the calipers. Just giving the heads up before you spend a bunch of money blasting and coating them
Tucker
And apparently you cannot simply weld and grind the rivets off the drum brake wheels?
Not sure why that is the case...
tucker74
Moderator
Drums are fine, you just have to keep them adjusted which can be a pain ...
There is a raised lip around on the center section where they are riveted to the rim that is just a weld bead on the later, this is what interferes
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #308
The seat fairy came today. Two Ford van buckets for $50 delivered to the shop! I am stoked. We are going to mock up tomorrow and see about fabbing up floor supports for them. I wasn't even expecting these. I will post pics tomorrow. They have good headrests. I am happy to know that I will be having something better than the old bench.
- Thread starter
- #309
Got the ends of the rockers welded up today. They are pretty watertight now, and they will be totally when we are finished with it. I like the way we finished out the bottom of the A pillar. It looks alot better than the crazy rotten and raggedy looking mess that was there before.
I didn;t get to work on the seat today, but here is a sneak peak of the diamond in the rough.
Also, mounted the hinges on today. They will be tightened soon and the doors fitted. Once this is done, a huge milestone will be in the rear view mirror.
I didn;t get to work on the seat today, but here is a sneak peak of the diamond in the rough.
Also, mounted the hinges on today. They will be tightened soon and the doors fitted. Once this is done, a huge milestone will be in the rear view mirror.
- Thread starter
- #310
Engine Assembly - Finally
11-26-13 I got started on the engine assembly. No major problems until one of the rear main bearing cap bolts broke. Funny thing it broke and then I backed it out all of the way, inspected it and did not see anything. I screwed it back in and it finished itself off. It backed out without much fanfare. Only replacement I found was a 10.9 bolt from a bolt place. It bolted up fine. I hope it holds out. I guess if it doesnt, then I will hear it in the oil pan one day!
Here are some pics. Now off to find the missing head bolt....
11-26-13 I got started on the engine assembly. No major problems until one of the rear main bearing cap bolts broke. Funny thing it broke and then I backed it out all of the way, inspected it and did not see anything. I screwed it back in and it finished itself off. It backed out without much fanfare. Only replacement I found was a 10.9 bolt from a bolt place. It bolted up fine. I hope it holds out. I guess if it doesnt, then I will hear it in the oil pan one day!
Here are some pics. Now off to find the missing head bolt....
Bet I have the broke bolt, too...
- Thread starter
- #312
when do you think you will know? I am at your mercy if you have them?
The rear main bearing cap bolt is a 12mm x 65mm. It is slightly smaller than the other main bearing cap bolts, probably because there are 4 of them on this cap. I used a 70mm with two 10.9 flat washers and it works fine, but if I had the correct one, I could change it out in 5 mins since the oil pan is still off.
The rear main bearing cap bolt is a 12mm x 65mm. It is slightly smaller than the other main bearing cap bolts, probably because there are 4 of them on this cap. I used a 70mm with two 10.9 flat washers and it works fine, but if I had the correct one, I could change it out in 5 mins since the oil pan is still off.
What's the engine ID number?
I don't know enough about these to know if the other local option may be the same oddball bolts, and hate to have him tear into if it ain't the same one.
Edited:
Locals isn't the same. I don't have the ID from the current F in parts Pig, can't get an answer from lot porter (ha) so gonna run by there in hopes gate isn't locked.
I don't know enough about these to know if the other local option may be the same oddball bolts, and hate to have him tear into if it ain't the same one.
Edited:
Splangy said:
Locals isn't the same. I don't have the ID from the current F in parts Pig, can't get an answer from lot porter (ha) so gonna run by there in hopes gate isn't locked.
- Thread starter
- #315
I will look for engine id number. For now all I am certain is that it is a F155 and made in 10/73, and that the head bolt length is 145mm. I am going to tear the the shop apart looking for the missing one on Monday. I have some feelers out for a bolt, but am uncertain about the potential for good.
- Thread starter
- #317
Can you use a 2F fan on an F155?
I am assembling the engine, and have become undecided as to using the OEM "fly swatter" fan blade. I have a 2F donor that has a 2F fan and spacer on it. I cannot remember if the aluminum spacer was on the F155 when we disassembled. Does anyone have any insight?
I had the get the old water pump flange pressed onto my new water pump, as well as, the pulley on the alternator. If I had not the donor, I would have been screwed. I turned in the originals as cores when purchasing the new ones. All you replacing parts out there, don't learn this the hard way!
I am going to post more engine pics in a bit. MUD seems to be having an issue with multiple uploads.
This week, we also tackled the seats. We cut down the bases on the van seats to the proper height and are just about ready to weld in place. Seat beats may become an issue later.
The big pain of the week was getting the race of the pilot bearing out of the crank. What a pain. The engine rebuilder missed it, and so did I until it was time to install the pilot bearing and clutch. Finally got it out today after boogering up the inside of the crank flange. Now, I have to sand it smooth before installing the pilot bearing. Painted the dash this week too. Seem like things are moving at a snails pace on the drivetrain assembly and install.
I am assembling the engine, and have become undecided as to using the OEM "fly swatter" fan blade. I have a 2F donor that has a 2F fan and spacer on it. I cannot remember if the aluminum spacer was on the F155 when we disassembled. Does anyone have any insight?
I had the get the old water pump flange pressed onto my new water pump, as well as, the pulley on the alternator. If I had not the donor, I would have been screwed. I turned in the originals as cores when purchasing the new ones. All you replacing parts out there, don't learn this the hard way!
I am going to post more engine pics in a bit. MUD seems to be having an issue with multiple uploads.
This week, we also tackled the seats. We cut down the bases on the van seats to the proper height and are just about ready to weld in place. Seat beats may become an issue later.
The big pain of the week was getting the race of the pilot bearing out of the crank. What a pain. The engine rebuilder missed it, and so did I until it was time to install the pilot bearing and clutch. Finally got it out today after boogering up the inside of the crank flange. Now, I have to sand it smooth before installing the pilot bearing. Painted the dash this week too. Seem like things are moving at a snails pace on the drivetrain assembly and install.
- Thread starter
- #318
Engine pics
Pics are going slow too!
Pics are going slow too!
- Thread starter
- #319
Another pic
Other side.
Other side.
- Thread starter
- #320
Water pump flange after surgery. The flange on the new pump stuck out too far and was over an inch out of alignment from the crank pulley and alternator. Removed flange from donor pig 2F and pressed it on the new pump. Now belts align perfectly.
I will post more pics when I get back to the office. For those of you who have watched from the beginning (06/2013), this pig has gone through a heck of a makeover to get to this point. Compare the engine photos from then to now. I am starting to be proud of what we have accomplished.
I will post more pics when I get back to the office. For those of you who have watched from the beginning (06/2013), this pig has gone through a heck of a makeover to get to this point. Compare the engine photos from then to now. I am starting to be proud of what we have accomplished.
