FRP top question (1 Viewer)

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You are buying a whole new windshield frame? Possible to grind down and remove the bad install and
reinstall, maybe?

Is this the shot you are looking for?
IMG_0682.JPG
 
Well the bottom of the windshield frame is not good (has some rust) so it needs to go anyways. As you probably already know, typical issue with 70 series windshield frames.

I guess what I was looking for is how it works without that rail but there are not that many 73 series soft tops pics online to compare. The other ones I do see from South America do have the same rail I have except they are painted the same color as the rest of the truck....mine is black so it stands out.

Looks like you are doing some serious body work there.
 
Someone will want the frame with the track, at the very least for a bikini top for summer.
This truck was rolled, so I had just finished replacing the rear quarter panel. All done now.
 
Chances are I will have completely remove the channel (or track as you put it) itself by drilling out the (3) rivets as @beno suggested and/or grind off the welds to remove the old top from frame. It is on there pretty tight.

Another reason to just get a new windshield frame.
 
I just found and stole these pics from Srzandros. This is a 1989, not sure on the model but very clear pics of
structure on the full factory soft top. This truck also has factory convertible doors with the removable frames.

1989Srzandres_1.jpg
1989Srzandres_2.jpg
 
FJ73Texas-just occurred to me. Would you want a shot of the top of a regular non convertible windshield frame to compare? I can tell you the top of the windshield frames are the same, with the same profile along the top. The convertible frame I have even has the four holes to bolt to an FRP top
 
You can post a pic. If they are exactly the same then I am going to regret canceling the fiberglass windshield frame order from @joekatana. :(
 
Check out this completed auction I found while researching. Looks like this is exactly what was done to mine....hence the rivets. I am not doing that because the way mine was done seems to prevent me from sliding the OEM top off properly.

"
Up for sale is OEM Toyota Front windshield assy. This fits the 70 series Land Cruiser with hard top, BJ-73 LJ-73 KZJ-73 RJ-73.BJ73,LJ73,RJ73 HZJ74 BJ73,HZJ73,74,LJ73,PZJ73,RJ73..LX,STD,VM BJ73,HZJ73,KZJ73,LJ73,RJ73..LX,VM BJ73,FJ73..LHD..HT FZJ73..LX FZJ74..LX FJ73,FZJ73,74..LHD..LX . OEM Toyota original part number 56301-90K20. This will fit soft top versions also you will need to do some work to make it work, drilling out the top part that secures your soft top then riveting back onto this new assy. The box it ships in is HUGE 62x29x5 and weighs 20 lbs. This part can be picked up if needed or shipped. "

Toyota OEM Frame Sub Assy, Windshield Land Cruiser 70 series 56301-90K20 | eBay
 
Can't tell on my phone. Did you check the price through Amayama.com?
 
Since we're talking FRP tops in general, I'd like to see what brackets people are using for roof racks they are attaching
either to the side and rear gutter tracks. Also I've seen lots with the remote gutter pieces like Thule uses. Just wouldn't mind
seeing what people have done, and how they seal them too
They are called 'Thule 542 Artificial Rain Gutter' Do people recommend them or are
there sad stories of leaking and failure??
 
I have those on mine
 
I have a JDM Abaworks aluminum rack I picked up when I visited Japan in 2010. The brackets are attached to the FRP with 8mm nutserts and Tundra Torx button-head 8mm cargo loop screws.

IMGP2924.JPG
 
This photo shows a bit of the side profile. That's all I have handy on this computer.

oz.PNG
 
I found this detail shot on my phone.

tmp_26755-20161027_1549541127456395.jpg
 
They certainly look strong enough for a load. Probably stronger than the factory gutter above the doors.
I probably only carry a canoe on mine anyhow, so this looks good. Thx, J
 
When I acquired my BJ74 the left drip rail was broken by a roof rack mount. It was a sonofabitch to fix.

A previous owner had fitted brackets similar to the Thule that I used. They were stamped steel as opposed to cast aluminum and he mounted them centered over the quarter windows. They were through-bolted with plates on the inside. Bad idea for a hollow space. The top walls were pulled inward and distorted. My body guy was old school and fixed lots of K5 Blazer tops back in the day. He was able to fill the holes and restore the textured finish. He spot painted it and some three years later it is almost impossible to detect it has been worked. There is a slight wave he was not able to completely erase. Since the top is textured and a matte finish you have you look very hard to see it.
 
My left drip rail has two bad rivets, I'm waiting for the local place to bring some new rivets, so I'll
repair that when they arrive. But your setup looks solid now, this roof otherwise is good shape.
 

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