Front diff bushing replacement? (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Help me out guys.

I'm getting ready to replace all the bushings.

Heating/burning out the rubber of the large front bushing, and what it slips out with a little push, right?
But what about the metal cup it's (rubber) in. Does metal cup then come out easily?

There is a metal puck (mount stopper) at the bottom of the front bushing and rear diff support. The part number has change which may indicate a change was necessary, like for some improvement. Anyone have a clue why they changed the PN #?

Do we just reuse all pucks or replace?

Thanks!

 

[abuck99]

Superseded part #no. can be attributed to a number of reasons: Cost down, supplier change, design change, material change etc. It may not be better. The mount stopper (41654-60010) is just a huge steel washer- prob. not necessary to replace that unless the design of the replacement puck it mates to has changed.

I haven't done this job yet because the pucks looked in pretty shape when I installed the diff drop a few months ago @ 178k. Are your pucks worn down, is there a gap or are you replacing to refresh?

For others looking to replace components:

PART No.#'s (Front= forward side of diff, Rear= rear facing side of diff.)
( Bushing that gets pressed out of the diff cover): 41651-60010 Cushion Front Differential Mount No. 1
(Rubber Puck Front)41653-60010 Stopper Differential Mount, Upper
(Rubber Puck Rear) Stopper 41653-60020 Stopper Front Differential Mount, Upper
(Steel Washer front & rear) Stopper Differential mount lower 41654-60010
Front Bolt 90119-14090- Id replace this if the bolt you remove is crusty. There is a captured nut in the frame so no nut is needed.
Rear Bolt: 90119-14089 (bolt) 90179- 14063(nut) The rear mount will prob need a new bolt and nut; mine were pretty crusty and I wouldn't reuse. Tip: You'll want to wedge a wrench against the frame on the top nut to keep it from moving while you use a breaker bar/air gun on the lower bolt.
( Rearward facing diff mounting arm) 52380-60030 Support Assy. Front Diff- I'm not sure if the same bush (41651-60010) can be used here or if you need to buy the entire arm.

Good luck

 

[2001LC]

Thanks @abuck99 my local parts guy has the new PN lower metal pucks in for me. I'll match up to old and see if any difference.

I've drained the gear lube and in process of pulling both front drive shafts so not much more to remove, and I can just pull the differential out.

1)- I'm considering just pulling the front differential to work on bench.
2)- I'm also considering pulling front cover and just take to mechanic shop to have press out & in.
3)- But if metal cup comes out easy enough after torching front bushing I'll just do in place.

@reznunt @Rolocado @ewrk1989 @Captramrod01 it seem you've all torched the front bushing out. What did it then take to get the metal cup out & new bushing assembly (cup & rubber) in?

If you were to do again and had gear lube drain from diff and both drive shafts (CV's) out, which method would you now use: 1, 2 or 3 above or something different altogether?

 

[Captramrod01]

I'd probably go #3 again. It sucked and it definitely takes work to get the metal cup out but so does dropping the diff.

 

[Rolocado]

I just did it in place. Definitely replace the pucks on all mounts, the rubber gets squished over time

I'd probably go #3 again. It sucked and it definitely takes work to get the metal cup out but so does dropping the diff.

 

[2001LC]

It does take work to drop diff, but keep in mind I have front driveshafts out and will be removing the three support to replace. So I only need to pull forward propeller shaft & breather tube, I can't think of anything else holding diff in place or attached. So I'm looking at 30 minute x 2, to give better access.

When I look a pictures posted here it seem the metal cup is mangled up big time. This indicate a lot of effort yo get cup out & IN, with difficult angle in place.

So with effort you took would you just pull diff, if as far along as I am?

 

[Rolocado]

It does take work to drop diff, but keep in mind I have front driveshafts out and will be removing the three support to replace. So I only need to pull forward propeller shaft & breather tube, I can't think of anything else holding diff in place or attached. So I'm looking at 30 minute x 2, to give better access.

When I look a pictures posted here it seem the metal cup is mangled up big time. This indicate a lot of effort yo get cup out & IN, with difficult angle in place.

So with effort you took would you just pull diff, if as far along as I am?

No doubt it's tough. If you can, it's ideal to have it out. And it sounds like you're far enough along to justify it. That way you can take lots of pictures along the way for all our education. How many miles it have?

 

[2001LC]

No doubt it's tough. If you can, it's ideal to have it out. And it sounds like you're far enough along to justify it. That way you can take lots of pictures along the way for all our education. How many miles it have?

Thanks, that's what @abuck99 and I are thinking as well, but neither of us have done the job before. It has 194K, I posted the video of front diff movement earlier. It's really not bad at all, no clunk at least. But we're pushing for the next 10 yr/100K or more so just doing now.

 

[2001LC]

I was just wondering how many of you saw if your front bushing was actually toast, as in OP picture. That is cracks or rips inside once you could see up in to it?

 

[Rolocado]

Mine wasn't toast as bad as @spressomon but it was cracking and i could move it around quite easily.

 

[Rolocado]

Any reason for knowing exactly how toast they were?

 

[2001LC]

Yes it was before I inspected front this morning. Didn't what to pull if not toast, if everyone else was. But upon inspection it was bad enough to warrant replacement I think. While differential out for easy access, I air hammered out on bench in less than 15 minutes, was in there tight. I did cook rubber first, but really think that was waste of time. Probable made tighter as I did not cool down, just jump right in. My bad!

Seemed a Waste of time burning out rubber. I'll try without next time.

Working side to side as I walked it out was in very tight. But job was a piece of cake.

Less than 15 minute including tool setup.

 

[2001LC]

Didn't mare flange of cover to bad, used a file to clean up corrosion and tool marks. Then polish and greased. Yep anyone knows me knows it's marine grease

I did notice sometime just now. The bushing has a specific orientation. The dots pointing inline to front goes in front, two dot perpendicular to travel at the rear. You'll probably knew that but I didn't and it's not in the FSM.

I'm take a lunch break then headed to Toyota Dealer for some parts waiting for me on shelve, before they close. I think I'll grab a press on the way back from part store, should make easy work of pressing bushing in.

Orientation is with two dot pointing to front, 2 dots perpendicular to travel to rear:

I above picture it's just siting on top before I pressed in. Below I'l show pressing in. It was so easy.1/4

 

[Rolocado]

Didn't mare flange of cover to bad, used a file to clean up corrosion and tool marks. Then polish and greased. Yep anyone knows me knows it's marine grease

I did notice sometime just now. The bushing has a specific orientation. The one dot goes in front, two dot to the rear. You'll probably knew that but I didn't and it's not in the FSM.

I'm take a lunch break then headed to Toyota Dealer for some parts waiting for me on shelve, before they close. I think I'll grab a press on the way back from part store, should make easy work of pressing bushing in.
View attachment 1510826 View attachment 1510827 View attachment 1510828 View attachment 1510829

Orientation is with 1 dot to front, 2 dots to rear:
View attachment 1510832

Didn't know there was an orientation difference. I put it in horizontal at least, not sure if it makes a difference or not

 

[2001LC]

Didn't know there was an orientation difference. I put it in horizontal at least, not sure if it makes a difference or not

I had to rewrite that as it had more then one dot at each end, hope it made sense but pictures is correct orientation.

I do think it makes a difference, because that is were solid rubber runs from inner to outer. Either side of that is not connected with solid rubber. My question became, did it make a difference with which dots in front and which in rear. I looked in FSM and found nothing. Gave @AimCOtaco a call, but he was out of pocket. Fortunately found my answer in my own tear-down pictures before Andy could get back to me. Andy's my go to guy, not much he's not done on these rigs.

Anyway pick up a tool from O'Rielly, something I'll be ready with next time. It worked great, the key being to get it started perfectly aligned.

First I lug the beast onto my beach so I could get better line of sight with both halves cleaned, grease with whole assemble leveled.

I use a hand press and pick-up second accessory kit with a cup for bottom that was exact size of bushing cup. I felt this whole allow most pressure with out risk of busting the bottom of cover.

Start very slowly make sure it was square. I saw one side already in more so I tap that side out using brass dowel to square up.

Then once it started in squarely, I just ran in with easy. Oh it was tight, especially the last 3//8". I pressed until my grease squished out.

Looks lined up perfect, I'm happy.

 

[2001LC]

If I did again I try without cooking and have press on hand. Then 15 min to tool up and remove cup of bushing, 15 minutes to recondition & grease, then 15 to press in and clean up. Guys it's easy once you drop the differential and possible less risk of damage.

Now the question I have is which puck goes where. One has white paint which my part guy by PN said is front top and other is rear top. But I've had mix ups with numbers PN before. Anyone know which goes where.

White to front makes sense but I'd like some confirmation.

 

[abuck99]

Part number is embossed in the rubber of the rear puck- cross reference that to the parts diagram I attached earlier- you'll see that -60020 goes rearward.

Really impressed with the RR on this bushing. Nice work.

 

[2001LC]

Part number is embossed in the rubber of the rear puck- cross reference that to the parts diagram I attached earlier- you'll see that -60020 goes rearward.

Really impressed with the RR on this bushing. Nice work.

How did you cross reference the numbers to PN?

Thanks @abuck99, that means a lot from you!

 

[abuck99]

When I posted all the part numbers earlier, I looked them up at an online Toyota parts dealers website and posted both the Toyota description and the reference location of where that part goes.

In the attached parts diagram above you'll notice the same beginning prefix part code for both pucks but they end with different alpha characters and that is your key, as you can reference in the part look up (online) you scroll down through the parts list, the prefix part code with alpha is matched to the corresponding part number.

 

[2001LC]

When I posted all the part numbers earlier, I looked them up at an online Toyota parts dealers website and posted both the Toyota description and the reference location of where that part goes.

In the attached parts diagram above you'll notice the same beginning prefix part code for both pucks but they end with different alpha characters and that is your key, as you can reference in the part look up (online) you scroll down through the parts list, the prefix part code with alpha is matched to the corresponding part number.

View attachment 1511307

View attachment 1511309

I went back and looked and saw you did post up the location by PN number. Sorry for wasting your time! Would you link me to that web page you use. The ones I use just give part 1,2, and so on..