Front diff bushing replacement?

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I just bit the bullet and paid the dealership to do job. Picked it up today. They took a video of the movement in the bushing. They also highlighted my leaking CV boots as well!



and the damage:

Dropbox - receipt.jpg

Wanted to share my dealership price paid today on having this done for those who are contemplating doing it themselves.
 
I just bit the bullet and paid the dealership to do job. Picked it up today. They took a video of the movement in the bushing. They also highlighted my leaking CV boots as well!



and the damage:

Dropbox - receipt.jpg

Wanted to share my dealership price paid today on having this done for those who are contemplating doing it themselves.



Damn!! Wonder what a small shop would charge?
 
I just bit the bullet and paid the dealership to do job. Picked it up today. They took a video of the movement in the bushing. They also highlighted my leaking CV boots as well!



and the damage:

Dropbox - receipt.jpg

Wanted to share my dealership price paid today on having this done for those who are contemplating doing it themselves.

Keep in mind they all move up & down. Pulling the bolt and looking at the rubber bushing is best to make final call.
 
Didn't mare flange of cover to bad, used a file to clean up corrosion and tool marks. Then polish and greased. Yep anyone knows me knows it's marine grease;)

I did notice sometime just now. The bushing has a specific orientation. The dots pointing inline to front goes in front, two dot perpendicular to travel at the rear. You'll probably knew that but I didn't and it's not in the FSM.

I'm take a lunch break then headed to Toyota Dealer for some parts waiting for me on shelve, before they close. I think I'll grab a press on the way back from part store, should make easy work of pressing bushing in.
View attachment 1510826 View attachment 1510827 View attachment 1510828 View attachment 1510829

Orientation is with two dot pointing to front, 2 dots perpendicular to travel to rear::beer:
View attachment 1510832
I above picture it's just siting on top before I pressed in. Below I'l show pressing in.

I have a 99 Cruiser. The 41651-60010 P/N bushing that comes attached to the flang is flangless for the 99 is what the Toyota dealer is telling me. Can anyone confirm.
Thanks!
 
41651-60010 on the bushing attached to flange the same for a 99 Cruiser? My local dealer is telling me no flange on the 99...
 
It's my understanding all 100 series have the same configuration of bushings (front, LH side & rear) on front differential. That said; Toyota did make changes throughout the years. So may or may not be differences in part number, use caution.

Try this sight: PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World
 
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It's my understanding all 100 series have the same configuration of bushings (front, LH side & rear) on front differential. That said; Toyota did make changes throughout the years. So may or may not be differences in part number, use caution.

Try this sight: PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World
Thanks for that 2001LC, I’m picking up my parts tomorrow so I’ll let you all know once the install is done.
 
Glad you LIKE the sights, it's about 97% accurate from what I see. But make sure you drill down on part to see part number changes.

I'd just did another frt diff bushing yeasture day, piece of cake with air tool. Granted I did on the bench, so easy. But thats while doing a full front end job with front drive shafts already out. But in or out of the rig, take your time squaring-it-up to pressing.

A little penetrating oil (PO) soak for 15 minutes really helps. Get the lip of bushing cut up just a hair with air tool and hit again with PO. This is not a great picture example of up a little as it almost out.
Differential frt bushing remove (1).JPG

Differential frt bushing remove (7).JPG

Notice the markings on bushing. one dot in front two dots in rear.
Bushing press (1).JPG

Squarely in place start pressing, go slow at first.
Bushing press (2).JPG
 
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So....looks like when removing the bushing it would be best to take the diff cover off (or drop the diff) and work on it outside of the vehicle.

From what I can tell....'torching' the rubber out of the bushing is going to be the easiest thing to do, then remove the metal 'shell' afterward.

When I do mine...I am going to 'score/cut' the lip of the shell before tapping on it. Should make it easy to 'raise' the lip that way and loosen the interference fit of the shell in the bore.

I have an air chisel, but simple hand tools (Hammer, Punch, Chisel) would work as well.

Thanks to all who contributed, especially @2001LC.

bushing.jpg
 
So....looks like when removing the bushing it would be best to take the diff cover off (or drop the diff) and work on it outside of the vehicle.

From what I can tell....'torching' the rubber out of the bushing is going to be the easiest thing to do, then remove the metal 'shell' afterward.

When I do mine...I am going to 'score/cut' the lip of the shell before tapping on it. Should make it easy to 'raise' the lip that way and loosen the interference fit of the shell in the bore.

I have an air chisel, but simple hand tools (Hammer, Punch, Chisel) would work as well.

Thanks to all who contributed, especially @2001LC.

View attachment 1697580
I did mine on scene. You don't have to take it out although it would be easier if it was out but that is a PITA in itself
 
If you do it- please document it and let us know how your process worked out. I'm, timing this job around next diff fluid change.
 
So....looks like when removing the bushing it would be best to take the diff cover off (or drop the diff) and work on it outside of the vehicle.

From what I can tell....'torching' the rubber out of the bushing is going to be the easiest thing to do, then remove the metal 'shell' afterward.

When I do mine...I am going to 'score/cut' the lip of the shell before tapping on it. Should make it easy to 'raise' the lip that way and loosen the interference fit of the shell in the bore.

I have an air chisel, but simple hand tools (Hammer, Punch, Chisel) would work as well.

Thanks to all who contributed, especially @2001LC.

View attachment 1697580
I just did another while differentials out. This time I did not torch it first. It was easy and as I suspected torching made no difference.

See index in OP for fast reference to location in thread for: Front differential bushing replacement. Also see: Steering Rack NEW OE rubber mounting bushings pressed in. Both were so easy on the bench with a few drops of penetrating oil, they practically fell out;)
Scored a 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

Sourcing the top may weaken the area you'll need, so not sure I'd do that. It's held on inside of cup, which soaring there would help but not needed.
 
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Both were so easy on the beach with a few drops of penetrating oil, they practically fell out;)

Well hell yeah, everything's a breeze on the 'beach'. ;)

Seriously, good info. Thanks
 
Well hell yeah, everything's a breeze on the 'beach'. ;)

Seriously, good info. Thanks
Sometimes Paul's spell checker doesn't work and we get these cryptic words and have to decipher whats being said.:grinpimp:
 
It was just a week, I wished I was on the BEACH:( But bench is what I meant;)

We know, just picking at you. In fact my mind usually 'auto-corrects' most things I read.

Hard to complain about being on the 'beach'. :)
 
Damn, you have to remove the entire diff to do this job? MIne's shot, too.
 
I'll be doing this job in a weeks time. Got OEM front bushing, front stopper and rear stopper. Toyota dont make bushings for rear arm and driver side arm, so I went with aftermarket bushings
 

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