Dang Rolo- guess you're all in now.
You could try and drill out and around the rubber portion to weaken it, then heat, push the rest out. (?)
Good luck and be careful with the cover-
Front diff bushing replacement? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Utahfj62
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You could try and drill out and around the rubber portion to weaken it, then heat, push the rest out. (?)
Good luck and be careful with the cover-
I would be hesitant to get too aggressive with heat, because the metal of the diff case is going to disperse that around the longer you apply heat. Doing a Google search, the FIPG has a pretty high temp rating (I read around 500F--don't take my word for it). But I dunno, the oil is something to consider as well. There's a lot of metal there but I'm cautious.
But definitely some localized heat! Drilling out the rubber sounds like a good idea, too.
It looks like you've been able to mangle the metal part pretty well--this might work to your advantage. Could you work a screwdriver between the diff case and the bushing's metal flange? If you can drill out the rubber and then get between the case and flange, you might be able to pound it inward so it collapses---then it may fall out / be able to be pulled out? Just brainstorming here.
But definitely some localized heat! Drilling out the rubber sounds like a good idea, too.
It looks like you've been able to mangle the metal part pretty well--this might work to your advantage. Could you work a screwdriver between the diff case and the bushing's metal flange? If you can drill out the rubber and then get between the case and flange, you might be able to pound it inward so it collapses---then it may fall out / be able to be pulled out? Just brainstorming here.
I'm telling you... propane or mapp torch and a few seconds should turn it into a black marshmallow. Do it or don't. Good luck!
So it's coming along (albeit not the most cosmetic approach) but between chisels, air chisels, sawzalls and fire, it's coming out. New bushing is sleeping in the freezer tonight so hopefully she'll go in easy mañana. Thanks for the replies and gentle comedy about s'mores. I could go for one right now
Dang, that's some carnage, but I think it looks promising. At least it's giving way!
Did you drill out the rubber or chisel?
I'm hoping the freezer trick works on this thing. Would definitely suggest applying heat to the housing to increase the clearance. But be sure to smooth out any burrs introduced by the removal process. Maybe even a little grease on the cold side. Tap in with a gentle deadblow or rubber mallet.
It took me several hours longer than it should've to replace my u-joints last weekend because the yokes are angled and rounded on the outside faces. So the usual tool didn't work so well and things kept getting misaligned. My point being that I'm not sure Toyota always hit the nail on the head when it comes to maintenance access. Well, that is for people who can't afford each and every SST called out in the FSM!
Did you drill out the rubber or chisel?
I'm hoping the freezer trick works on this thing. Would definitely suggest applying heat to the housing to increase the clearance. But be sure to smooth out any burrs introduced by the removal process. Maybe even a little grease on the cold side. Tap in with a gentle deadblow or rubber mallet.
It took me several hours longer than it should've to replace my u-joints last weekend because the yokes are angled and rounded on the outside faces. So the usual tool didn't work so well and things kept getting misaligned. My point being that I'm not sure Toyota always hit the nail on the head when it comes to maintenance access. Well, that is for people who can't afford each and every SST called out in the FSM!
Damn that sleeve looks gnarly. Bet it put up a good fight!
DAMN, you weren't kidding! I torched it for about a minute and it wiggled right out! I'm in hot water now though, because the bushing isn't seating all the way. I tried tightening it against the frame and then trying to press the bushing in with a brick under it. Any ideas how I can finish this sucker off? The bushing was in the freezer for a couple of days and I heated up the sleeve before hand... Would Mr. T have a press/be able to do it on the car?
Wondering if I can slowly let the trucks weight off the jack onto a brick to get it to press in???
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Yep so I tried to let it down on bricks under it's own weight and the bushing won't go in. I don't think I have any stronger tools to get this flush.
What did you do to get yours in?
Tag. I'm doing this later this week.
SUCCESS. I used a C clamp ball joint remover and the backing plate for the bushing to press it in. So it's in(not without a battle scar or two) Clunking GONE. The only rubber I have to change out in the front of the truck is the shock bushings. Hundy=full strength!
In the video, the diff still moves a nudge when put in to reverse, I have to believe it's supposed to be that way with the rubber bushing and the rubber puck on top. It's much better than the first video
Also, very nice job! I second the question about what you would do differently...what you think the best approach is.
Also, did you have to undo any other connections or bolts besides the one in question to get the diff to drop enough to remove the upper puck? And does that upper puck have a metal race around it? Almost looks like there's some weird metal washer instead of a rubber puck.
I would think some slight movement is normal here. These rubber parts are acting as vibration isolators "tuned" with a certain spring rate which will minimize--but not completely constrain--movement.
Also, did you have to undo any other connections or bolts besides the one in question to get the diff to drop enough to remove the upper puck? And does that upper puck have a metal race around it? Almost looks like there's some weird metal washer instead of a rubber puck.
I would think some slight movement is normal here. These rubber parts are acting as vibration isolators "tuned" with a certain spring rate which will minimize--but not completely constrain--movement.
Yeah man, I used the exact same setup.
Anything different? I would torch the bushing sooner... I did earlier but it wasn't budging. I'm sure it being half destroyed help move things along.
I wouldn't try pressing it in with the puck on top of it. The rubber compresses too much and you won't get anywhere.
To get the C clamp in there I jacked the car up on the front support, used a bottle jack to support the diff, loostened the rear diff mount, then undid the front diff mount while still being supported by the bottle jack. I then let the diff down enough to get the press in.
The puck is rubber molded into metal, all you see if the metal but the rubber is what stabilizes the head of the bushing in between the diff and frame.
Congrats bro! Great job, and thanks for posting pics!
