Fresh rebuild crank won’t turn after installing in truck.

[Fj80oregon]

I'm sure you did, but did you also replace the oil orifice on top of the block?

Oil orifice?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Also, how was the oil pick up tube after the original engine lost oil pressure? When mine lost oil pressure the screen was covered with metal shavings. I replaced everything that oil touched but can't get a pick up tube so we removed the screen, hot tanked it and put the screen back in the tube.

Tube was hot tanked and cleaned thoroughly.

 

[Fj80oregon]

So scoped the pistons and the bore and all looks great. Scoped timing chain cover and nothing visible everything is on correct order and alignment. Pulled timing chain off and cams rotate freely with small pliers.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Starting to think torque converter or transmission are holding me up. Not sure how that would be the case. I know last the one I installed I thought I had the torque converter in all the way but the housings would not align all the way so I pulled them apart and then engaged it and got one more click in. This time I got 3 clicks engaging measured the torque converter face to housing and had over .50inch. When bolted up it went super smooth.

 

[Ecliff5]

 

[use2bn83]

If the torque converter is not installed properly, it would be difficult to bolt the trans bell housing to the back of the block. However, forcibly (Ie using and impact) might make this less noticeable and jamming the torque converter bad enough to break the front pump or Jack knife it against the front guide bushing/bore.

Do you remember having to pull/slide the torque converter forward to get it to mate up the the flex plate?

I suppose a grenaded power steering pump could cause a lockup that couldn’t be overcome with a hand rotation but that’s kind of hard to believe.

If the piston tops all look good, that kind of eliminates a dropped valve.

That’s all that comes to mind , based on what I’ve read so far.

Any chance that the bolts holding the SC drive pulley onto the crank pulley are too long and making contact with something?

 

[Fj80oregon]

If the torque converter is not installed properly, it would be difficult to bolt the trans bell housing to the back of the block. However, forcibly (Ie using and impact) might make this less noticeable and jamming the torque converter bad enough to break the front pump or Jack knife it against the front guide bushing/bore.

Do you remember having to pull/slide the torque converter forward to get it to mate up the the flex plate?

I suppose a grenaded power steering pump could cause a lockup that couldn’t be overcome with a hand rotation but that’s kind of hard to believe.

If the piston tops all look good, that kind of eliminates a dropped valve.

That’s all that comes to mind , based on what I’ve read so far.

Any chance that the bolts holding the SC drive pulley onto the crank pulley are too long and making contact with something?

good thinking with power steering pump I just pulled it and it spins freely.

 

[Fj80oregon]

If the torque converter is not installed properly, it would be difficult to bolt the trans bell housing to the back of the block. However, forcibly (Ie using and impact) might make this less noticeable and jamming the torque converter bad enough to break the front pump or Jack knife it against the front guide bushing/bore.

It went together smoothly no impact tools used. I have not had one aligned before and it pretty obvious when it isn’t engaged enough you can’t get the bell housings to suck up.

Do you remember having to pull/slide the torque converter forward to get it to mate up the the flex plate?

I had to spin the torque converter a bit to line them up.

I suppose a grenaded power steering pump could cause a lockup that couldn’t be overcome with a hand rotation but that’s kind of hard to believe.

If the piston tops all look good, that kind of eliminates a dropped valve.

That’s all that comes to mind , based on what I’ve read so far.

Any chance that the bolts holding the SC drive pulley onto the crank pulley are too long and making contact with something?

 

[Fj80oregon]

If the torque converter is not installed properly, it would be difficult to bolt the trans bell housing to the back of the block. However, forcibly (Ie using and impact) might make this less noticeable and jamming the torque converter bad enough to break the front pump or Jack knife it against the front guide bushing/bore.

Do you remember having to pull/slide the torque converter forward to get it to mate up the the flex plate?

I suppose a grenaded power steering pump could cause a lockup that couldn’t be overcome with a hand rotation but that’s kind of hard to believe.

If the piston tops all look good, that kind of eliminates a dropped valve.

That’s all that comes to mind , based on what I’ve read so far.

Any chance that the bolts holding the SC drive pulley onto the crank pulley are too long and making contact with something?

I used the bolts that were already on the old harmonic balancer just swapped them over to the new harmonic balancer when installed.

 

[BILT4ME]

Do you have all your 10 mm sockets and wrenches?

 

[BILT4ME]

Drop your oil pan to see if something came off such as the oil pickup tube.

I don't know what on the transmission would cause a hard stop on an engine with the exception of something blocking the torque converter or flex plate.

Pull the starter to see if the drive extended and locked up. That would hold the flex plate.

Just guessing now.

 

[reklund5]

Get a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and see if it'll free up. Spin it both directions. Even if it just rocks a little that's a start.

I think it's highly unlikely to be in the trans or TC. Sounds like a rotating assembly problem unfortunately

As mentioned previously, drain the oil and look for debris. Cut open the filter too.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Do you have all your 10 mm sockets and wrenches?

Yes

 

[Fj80oregon]

Drop your oil pan to see if something came off such as the oil pickup tube.

Dropped it today and no go, I wish that dam windage baffle wasn’t in there. I bore scoped all around and everything looks good no metal shavings or anything.

I don't know what on the transmission would cause a hard stop on an engine with the exception of something blocking the torque converter or flex plate.

Pull the starter to see if the drive extended and locked up. That would hold the flex plate.

Starter is pulled along with the power steering pump and scoped around in there nothing I can see.

Just guessing now.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Dropped it today and no go, I wish that dam windage baffle wasn’t in there. I bore scoped all around and everything looks good no metal shavings or anything.

Starter is pulled along with the power steering pump and scoped around in there nothing I can see.

I feel for ya man

 

[Fj80oregon]

Get a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and see if it'll free up. Spin it both directions. Even if it just rocks a little that's a start.

Used my 4 foot 3/4 drive torque wrench and its stuck. If I try and go backwards it loosens the bolt.

I think it's highly unlikely to be in the trans or TC. Sounds like a rotating assembly problem unfortunately

I agree the torque converter or trans are not normally an issue here I just can’t find what’s holding me up in the rotating assembly. I talked with my machinists today and he had some suggestions but nothing has worked out so far.

As mentioned previously, drain the oil and look for debris. Cut open the filter too.

Oil is drained along with lower pan pulled no metal of any sort still looks like it did before I installed brand new.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Heading to work and going to yank everything bolted to the motor in the morning maybe the super charger pulley is binding me up some how. I have rebuilt several 1fzfe but this is my first supercharger assembly.

 

[White Stripe]

Pull the transmission would be my recommendation. Although the dry cams are very alarming.

 

[BILT4ME]

This was a NEW short block, right?

Make damn sure you document everything as it comes apart. I know you've already taken apart a LOT of stuff, I hope you documented in in the event that it is a warranty issue. Unlikely, but it is possible. I read of one other person that had an issue on a new Toyota short block and Toyota took care of it, but they were well documented.

otherwise, sue the shop that put it all together, dirty bastards........oh wait.......

 

[voorland80]

a little oil visible in pic but upstairs looks dry
dumb question: what bolt did you use on crank
supercharger uses M22-1.50 x 90 mm bolt