Fresh rebuild crank won’t turn after installing in truck. (3 Viewers)

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So far so good not a scratch on the first 4 main caps.

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First of many I’m sure. Side track…. I’m not sure if there’s enough data to say this for sure.. But I seem to break more sockets these days with electric impacts vs me ol’ uggah duggah’s turns out that extra torque and more rapid pulse might have an “impact”….. hahahaha
I killed TWO yesterday and actually wondered the same thing!!
 
Normally you would remove the pistons first but I can’t turn this sucker yet so working with what I got.
OK, I know you've forgotten more than I will ever know...
But when I rebuilt mine, I coated each bearing (mains and rods) with a layer of grease and then squirted assembly lube wherever I could. My logic was: Just in case the normal oil circulation took a bit longer than expected; hopefully everything would still be good. It turned out that getting fuel from the tank to the injectors was long enough to get the juices flowing...
Fingers crossed fer ya.
Keep us posted
 
Well found the culprit #7 main spun a bearing. Not sure how just one bearing would get spun and everything else has zero damage I mean not a Nick on a piston skirt or any other bearing. Not looking good, the main cap is Grooved along with the block. Might be able to line bore and do over sized bearings. Might be a $4500 counter weight for my tractor if the machine shop can’t correct it.
Just can’t understand why only one bearing out of 13 got galled up and nothing else. Maybe Toyota had the wrong size bearing in it and there was no tolerance or the opposite to much tolerance.
Not sure how Toyota parts warranties work especially on moving parts. Not putting the blame on them. I have done the same procedure multiple times as I did on this one with zero issues until now. 🤷‍♂

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OK, I know you've forgotten more than I will ever know...
But when I rebuilt mine, I coated each bearing (mains and rods) with a layer of grease and then squirted assembly lube wherever I could. My logic was: Just in case the normal oil circulation took a bit longer than expected; hopefully everything would still be good. It turned out that getting fuel from the tank to the injectors was long enough to get the juices flowing...
Fingers crossed fer ya.
Keep us posted
This is how things normally go for me also but not this time apparently.
 
How would that cause it to seize though?

Only by the piston getting jammed in the bore due to bearing slop. And those and not conrod bearings right, they are crank bearings?

So ya….

First ever 1FZ I tore down was seized but it was conrod bearings that went and caused the piston to seize in the bore.

Cheers
 
How would that cause it to seize though?
The bearing spun and dug into the crank and block and main cap side. It was caked up with Babbitt from the bearing chewing up. Kinda fussed together. So weird only on one bearing?
Only by the piston getting jammed in the bore due to bearing slop. And those and not conrod bearings right, they are crank bearings?
Yes main crank bearings.
So ya….

First ever 1FZ I tore down was seized but it was conrod bearings that went and caused the piston to seize in the bore.

Cheers
what’s your advice?
 
The bearing spun and dug into the crank and block and main cap side. It was caked up with Babbitt from the bearing chewing up. Kinda fussed together. So weird only on one bearing?

Yes main crank bearings.

what’s your advice?


Grind crank and oversize bearings or replace the crank.

Those are your only options.

Cheers
 
#7 main is last in line for oil. Those new short blocks don't come with a bunch of assembly lube in them out of the box, and what is there is somewhat thin and runny.

As I said it's possible your pump was air locked (and yes, I’d read the thread when I posted that...) I wasn't suggesting you didn't prime it at all- just was wonder if it was primed enough. My apologies for not making that clear. As I re-read my post I could have worded it better.

FWIW I like to spin them over with no plugs in them and the valve cover off until I see lots of oil flowing up top- especially with a pre-assembled short block. If you didn't assemble it, you don't know how much assembly lube the factory or machine shop or whoever used.

I know hindsight is 20/20, and I'm *NOT* trying to place blame. Hopefully you can get it fixed up and running soon.
 
Is the oil port to that journal open? Any chance it was blocked? Sorry to see this happened. The crank can be ground but IDK if a machine shop can do anything with that main cap or saddle in the block. Hopefully they can.
 
Wow bad luck. Wouldn’t have guessed that on a new OEM shortblock.
 
Well found the culprit #7 main spun a bearing. Not sure how just one bearing would get spun and everything else has zero damage I mean not a Nick on a piston skirt or any other bearing. Not looking good, the main cap is Grooved along with the block. Might be able to line bore and do over sized bearings. Might be a $4500 counter weight for my tractor if the machine shop can’t correct it.
Just can’t understand why only one bearing out of 13 got galled up and nothing else. Maybe Toyota had the wrong size bearing in it and there was no tolerance or the opposite to much tolerance.
Not sure how Toyota parts warranties work especially on moving parts. Not putting the blame on them. I have done the same procedure multiple times as I did on this one with zero issues until now. 🤷‍♂

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1 year unlimited miles on OEM Toyota parts warranty.

You won’t get your labor time back. But I hope you have a good relationship with your parts department. They will need to make the claim for you to Plano.

Contact me directly if you need help to navigate the claim process.
 
Anyone saying you didn’t prime it enough or it didn’t have enough assembly lube is clueless. That’s a random bad-luck failure. Plain and simple.
It absolutely makes sense that it happened almost immediately after first fire-up.
 
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That’s definitely a warranty issue. They should get you a new short block. Eating all the labor to do the job twice isn’t fun but at least you shouldn’t be out the price of the motor
 
Damn! That's rough.

I hate things like this when you question everything you have done, trying to figure out what you did wrong, when it may not have been something you did (or didn't do).

Best wishes on a decent resolution.
 
That scares the crap out of me I just finished installing my new short block. It was to the point I Didn't want to start it case I screwed up. But thanks to Otramm yo u tube videos and the manual I got it back together and installed. I cranked it to get the oil flowing coil wire off . Then finally started it it ran like a camp from the beginning, Now i know How lucky I got. I sure Toyota will stand behind the short block and replace it.
 

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