Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #101
I like the ideas coming in!There goes that theory. Somewhere along the flow wasn’t happy. Hope you get it nailed down!
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I like the ideas coming in!There goes that theory. Somewhere along the flow wasn’t happy. Hope you get it nailed down!
Normally you would remove the pistons first but I can’t turn this sucker yet so working with what I got.So far so good not a scratch on the first 4 main caps.
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I killed TWO yesterday and actually wondered the same thing!!First of many I’m sure. Side track…. I’m not sure if there’s enough data to say this for sure.. But I seem to break more sockets these days with electric impacts vs me ol’ uggah duggah’s turns out that extra torque and more rapid pulse might have an “impact”….. hahahaha
OK, I know you've forgotten more than I will ever know...Normally you would remove the pistons first but I can’t turn this sucker yet so working with what I got.
This is how things normally go for me also but not this time apparently.OK, I know you've forgotten more than I will ever know...
But when I rebuilt mine, I coated each bearing (mains and rods) with a layer of grease and then squirted assembly lube wherever I could. My logic was: Just in case the normal oil circulation took a bit longer than expected; hopefully everything would still be good. It turned out that getting fuel from the tank to the injectors was long enough to get the juices flowing...
Fingers crossed fer ya.
Keep us posted
The bearing spun and dug into the crank and block and main cap side. It was caked up with Babbitt from the bearing chewing up. Kinda fussed together. So weird only on one bearing?How would that cause it to seize though?
Yes main crank bearings.Only by the piston getting jammed in the bore due to bearing slop. And those and not conrod bearings right, they are crank bearings?
what’s your advice?So ya….
First ever 1FZ I tore down was seized but it was conrod bearings that went and caused the piston to seize in the bore.
Cheers
So sorry. This was a fresh shortblock, right? I don't know how they come lubed from the factory. I hope they cover it somehow.This is how things normally go for me also but not this time apparently.
The bearing spun and dug into the crank and block and main cap side. It was caked up with Babbitt from the bearing chewing up. Kinda fussed together. So weird only on one bearing?
Yes main crank bearings.
what’s your advice?
Well found the culprit #7 main spun a bearing. Not sure how just one bearing would get spun and everything else has zero damage I mean not a Nick on a piston skirt or any other bearing. Not looking good, the main cap is Grooved along with the block. Might be able to line bore and do over sized bearings. Might be a $4500 counter weight for my tractor if the machine shop can’t correct it.
Just can’t understand why only one bearing out of 13 got galled up and nothing else. Maybe Toyota had the wrong size bearing in it and there was no tolerance or the opposite to much tolerance.
Not sure how Toyota parts warranties work especially on moving parts. Not putting the blame on them. I have done the same procedure multiple times as I did on this one with zero issues until now. ♂
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