Fresh rebuild crank won’t turn after installing in truck. (2 Viewers)

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Finally killed an impact probable my most used socket 14mm blue point.

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First of many I’m sure. Side track…. I’m not sure if there’s enough data to say this for sure.. But I seem to break more sockets these days with electric impacts vs me ol’ uggah duggah’s turns out that extra torque and more rapid pulse might have an “impact”….. hahahaha
 
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Will get it torn down after the kiddos are asleep it’s family movie night and for some reason my family thinks that takes priority over land cruisers! It’s definitely seized from lack of oil, the oil pump was primed but did not distribute oil through out the motor. The oil cooler was bone dry, and oil filter only had a small amount of oil in it. Everything is assembled correctly to the T. I’m assuming a main is seized up as the cylinder walls look good from the little bit I can see.(good thing Toyota Coates there pistons with graphite or Teflon!) Assuming oil pump was air locked like someone has mentioned. Good news is it’s not a catastrophic failure and will be easily fixed. Hopefully a new bearing or 7 is all and a light polish on the crank. Bad news is my ego is hurt and I have wasted a lot of my time which is the most valuable thing to me these days. Will post up some pics of what I find later when I tear it down.
 
Sorry this happened, hope it's an easy fix.

Could a defective oil filter explain this? IIRC the oil flows first from the pump directly to the filter then out to the rest of the engine??

ps: don't tear the oil filter apart if you think it's defective, maybe also take photos as you remove the filter to show if there's any oil inside??
 
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sorry to hear, hoping the best for the crankshaft, wild that it had oil pressure but no/ little volume. must be plugged after the oil pressure sensor?
 
Will get it torn down after the kiddos are asleep it’s family movie night and for some reason my family thinks that takes priority over land cruisers! It’s definitely seized from lack of oil, the oil pump was primed but did not distribute oil through out the motor. The oil cooler was bone dry, and oil filter only had a small amount of oil in it. Everything is assembled correctly to the T. I’m assuming a main is seized up as the cylinder walls look good from the little bit I can see.(good thing Toyota Coates there pistons with graphite or Teflon!) Assuming oil pump was air locked like someone has mentioned. Good news is it’s not a catastrophic failure and will be easily fixed. Hopefully a new bearing or 7 is all and a light polish on the crank. Bad news is my ego is hurt and I have wasted a lot of my time which is the most valuable thing to me these days. Will post up some pics of what I find later when I tear it down.
Sorry to hear that.

Very deflating to have that happen. I think it would be wise to check the relief valve as well.

Best wishes on it just being a set of bearings and some crocus cloth to polish the crank.
 
Yah I’m not sure what would cause it to not flow everything is getting torn down to check rings and all bearings. Maybe the relief was stuck open. I never inspected it because it was a brand new timing cover with new oil pump included.
 
Will need to rethink my start up procedure to make sure the pump pulls. I primed the pump per FSM through the timing cover. And everything was pre lubed with oil on the piston Skirts and bearings. Will Inspecter pick up tube and relief valve and all oil passages that I can get it without pulling oil galley cup plugs. I have some if it comes to that.
 
You said the cams spun freely with a wrench when you took the chain off right? There was some visible oil in the head when the valve cover was off. So some oil got to the head because the cams didn’t seize. I think the oil orifice controls the flow of oil to the head. If it was not installed it could have flooded the head with oil and bypassed the oil cooler which seems to transfer it back to the crank? Then when you shut it down it all drained back down to the pan.
 
You said the cams spun freely with a wrench when you took the chain off right? There was some visible oil in the head when the valve cover was off. So some oil got to the head because the cams didn’t seize. I think the oil orifice controls the flow of oil to the head. If it was not installed it could have flooded the head with oil and bypassed the oil cooler which seems to transfer it back to the crank? Then when you shut it down it all drained back down to the pan.
Orifice Tube was installed, I was worried because I checked my receipts and it wasn’t on there but I had stollen it from a cracked block I had.

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Will get it torn down after the kiddos are asleep it’s family movie night and for some reason my family thinks that takes priority over land cruisers! It’s definitely seized from lack of oil, the oil pump was primed but did not distribute oil through out the motor. The oil cooler was bone dry, and oil filter only had a small amount of oil in it. Everything is assembled correctly to the T. I’m assuming a main is seized up as the cylinder walls look good from the little bit I can see.(good thing Toyota Coates there pistons with graphite or Teflon!) Assuming oil pump was air locked like someone has mentioned. Good news is it’s not a catastrophic failure and will be easily fixed. Hopefully a new bearing or 7 is all and a light polish on the crank. Bad news is my ego is hurt and I have wasted a lot of my time which is the most valuable thing to me these days. Will post up some pics of what I find later when I tear it down.

Oooof!

Check pressure relief valve moves freeky in the timing case.
Also check the crank for cracks. Mine cracked.
 

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