Builds "Forsaken 40" ~ 1st Frame-off Build (1 Viewer)

[Drake2]

1st set of springs painted. Waiting to see them dry to see if I need to change the process. Hoping the surface will self level and smooth out when it's dry

 

[EWheeler]

1st set of springs painted. Waiting to see them dry to see if I need to change the process. Hoping the surface will self level and smooth out when it's dry

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Wax those leafs before you reassemble.

 

[Drake2]

Wax those leafs before you reassemble.

There are the nylon pads that I will be putting back in. Were you referring to those or to an actual wax type product?

Thanks

 

[EWheeler]

There are the nylon pads that I will be putting back in. Were you referring to those or to an actual wax type product?

Thanks

Actual wax, post 315:

Builds - Mike's 1978 FJ40 Turbo Diesel Refit Project and Cross Country Road Trip!

This is the part that makes the largest difference: Cut down the pillow block bearing for clearance to get it to float better int he firewall opening. (quick and dirty this part was) Installed isolators and some thicker gaskets: Glued the gaskets/weather stripping: Installed the hats...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Drake2]

Well, I did not like the setup for painting the last spring pack so went to this leaf support thing-a-ma-jiggy.

Worked much better I would say

 

[Drake2]

Ok.....time to put progress into 200% mode

To do list for tomorrow (12/28/2021)

• Order new 6.0L L96 Crate Motor & TH400 Adapter Parts
• Order Terminator X Engine Harness & Computer Kit
• Drop off TH400 Transmission for full rebuild
• Order NP205 Rebuild Kit

 

[cruisermatt]

dude, skip the crate long block, get a complete one with 50k-100k on it for 1/2 the money, spend the $3k savings on something cooler, like a pair of ARB's and some really good shocks/

 

[badsamaritan]

Several years ago I used BDTurnkey Engines and was really happy with what I got. I think I paid 3k and that included crating and shipping. He makes it to where the thing is darn near plug and play, meaning all the harness work is done, tuning is done, and you get all the data from the run/test stand he uses.

 

[Drake2]

dude, skip the crate long block, get a complete one with 50k-100k on it for 1/2 the money, spend the $3k savings on something cooler, like a pair of ARB's and some really good shocks/

Thanks for the input but I could not justify 3K on a used engine with 100,000 miles that has no warranty and I have no history on. Did anyone change the oil? Did they just beat the s*** out of it at every light? No clue. I think the 24 month/100,000 mile GM warranty is worth every penny of the extra $2000. Besides, everything else going in the drive train is either new or rebuilt so why take a chance on the engine. I am hoping to never have to pull anything drive train related out for the next 20 years. This is a daily driver, highway runner, and weekend trail rider. No mountains of rock, no bottomless bogs, etc......that kind of fun ended for me 20 years ago. You did convince me to go with the newer technology and after watching some Holly videos of the Terminator X install it did look pretty easy. Many times it's hard for us older folks to consider something other than "old school" but with all the input here I think the newer style motors was a good call, thank you.

 

[cruisermatt]

You will be definitely be happy with it, i can assure that.

 

[Drake2]

You will be definitely be happy with it, i can assure that.

What did you use for your motor mounts? I see that TrailTailor used some factory style mounts.

 

[cruisermatt]

What did you use for your motor mounts? I see that TrailTailor used some factory style mounts.

I'm working on a new bracket kit right now to use Trailblazer V8 mounts. not much of the OEM GM mounts will clear the narrow frame rails using GM brackets that I'm aware of. Trail Tailor has me blocked so I don't see his stuff

 

[Drake2]

I'm working on a new bracket kit right now to use Trailblazer V8 mounts. not much of the OEM GM mounts will clear the narrow frame rails using GM brackets that I'm aware of. Trail Tailor has me blocked so I don't see his stuff

Im hearing about people being blocked more and more these days.. strange things going on.

 

[badsamaritan]

Thanks for the input but I could not justify 3K on a used engine with 100,000 miles that has no warranty and I have no history on. Did anyone change the oil? Did they just beat the s*** out of it at every light? No clue. I think the 24 month/100,000 mile GM warranty is worth every penny of the extra $2000. Besides, everything else going in the drive train is either new or rebuilt so why take a chance on the engine. I am hoping to never have to pull anything drive train related out for the next 20 years. This is a daily driver, highway runner, and weekend trail rider. No mountains of rock, no bottomless bogs, etc......that kind of fun ended for me 20 years ago. You did convince me to go with the newer technology and after watching some Holly videos of the Terminator X install it did look pretty easy. Many times it's hard for us older folks to consider something other than "old school" but with all the input here I think the newer style motors was a good call, thank you.

I'm not affiliated with BD in anyway, I just like his (and other shops that are similar) products and it's a budget friendly way to do a LS swap. To answer your question, he finds "low" mile engines and takes them back to his shop and cleans and inspects each one, mine was a 5.3L LM7 with about 80k miles on it. He sent me the carfax of the vehicle so I knew at least some of the history, mine was rear ended and totaled out. He then puts it on a run/test stand and goes through everything on it, and sends you a video of him checking the oil pressure, fuel pressure, making sure the O2 sensors switch etc. He tunes it based on your vehicle parameters and then mods the harness so that it's 4-5 wires you have to connect and you are done. Since my rig had a 283 in it this was a really simple swap I didn't move motor mounts or anything, just had to plumb for fuel, swap oil pans, swap headers and adjust the clutch arm. Most of my time was spent modding the stock fuel tank and finding a drive by wire pedal that would fit in a FJ40.

Having run Holley Terminator on my 454 Chevelle for years I can tell you to really get it dialed in, you will likely have to pay someone to tune it for you. The computer will get it like 80% there on its own. I had a couple nagging issues on my Chevelle that cost me a dyno day to get ironed out. the smoking gun for me was that my ECU wasn't at the right software level and the latest version fixed a bug.

Here's my motor the day I got it, it was immaculately clean. Just trying to give you an option to consider, the $$ piles up fast.

 

[76YotaBMWMazda]

1

 

[cruisermatt]

Having run Holley Terminator on my 454 Chevelle for years I can tell you to really get it dialed in, you will likely have to pay someone to tune it for you. The computer will get it like 80% there on its own. I had a couple nagging issues on my Chevelle that cost me a dyno day to get ironed out. the smoking gun for me was that my ECU wasn't at the right software level and the latest version fixed a bug.

This is not the same Terminator as the newer Terminator X system. Poor naming choice on the part of Holley IMO

 

[Drake2]

Ok, here is the engine. Pictures from the dealer I purchased it from. Shipping soon.

LC8 (L96) The LC8 model is identical to the L96 except the LC8 has hardened valve seats and exhaust valves so it can also run on LPG & CNG as well as 87 octane pump gas. At some point I will try to sell this FUGLY intake manifold and go with a standard low profile LS3 OEM intake manifold which looks much nicer. I can probably find that intake from the salvage yard.

 

[raymond2335]

Has anyone seen had this happen to their races (Koyo 303030) ? When I disassembled the knuckles everything had decent grease and nothing was dry other than the exposed outer surface of the knuckle balls. I would estimate these wear spots to be 0.003"-0.005" deep. Both upper and lower races had the same effect but the lower ones are the worst. The axle is from an 02/1980 FJ40.

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Yes! Both my 40s would “snap” into the straight ahead position because of the worn races…. Not certain why… most common steering position?

 

[cruisermatt]

Keep the truck intake. It will make more power at lower RPM and you won’t have to mess with your accessory drive to accommodate the throttle body being 4” lower. I went down that road and it was a complete waste of time. Just get the nice engine cover from a 2012-up truck and clip it on.

Im glad that crate motor comes with intake, rails and injectors, water pump, alt/pump bracket, thats the stuff that usually nickel and dimes you to death.

 

[Drake2]

Keep the truck intake. It will make more power at lower RPM and you won’t have to mess with your accessory drive to accommodate the throttle body being 4” lower. I went down that road and it was a complete waste of time. Just get the nice engine cover from a 2012-up truck and clip it on.

Im glad that crate motor comes with intake, rails and injectors, water pump, alt/pump bracket, thats the stuff that usually nickel and dimes you to death.

Well then, if there is actually a cover that will bolt onto it so it does not look so Damn FUGLY I'm good with that. Do you happen to have a link to a picture of the cover you're speaking of? I guess it would help to be able to show people what I am looking for.
Thanks!

Maybe this is what you were referring to?
Amazon product ASIN B00GUHGDLC