Builds "Forsaken 40" ~ 1st Frame-off Build (7 Viewers)

Drake2

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 11, 2017
Messages
2,249
Location
Wisconsin
Finished stripping the remaining items from the dash so the tub can move along to body work and paint, someday, hopefully :bang:

1583043799710.JPEG


1583043803785.JPEG

Did some digging into what the PO used to fill in unwanted holes in the dash :worms:. He put a small, thin piece of metal behind the holes and then brazed them on (I think it's brazed), and filled with putty :(

1583044120094.JPEG


1583044120412.JPEG
 

Jdc1

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
3,698
Location
Akron, OH

FishTacos

At the Muskielounge
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
1,078
Location
Dane County, Wisconsin

FishTacos

At the Muskielounge
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
1,078
Location
Dane County, Wisconsin
@FishTacos do you know if using a torch tip and heating it is the best way to remove the brazing? I looked online and I really could not find much about removing brazing, only how to braze.

You can get brass to flow with a mapp gas torch. There will be a mess and you will probably damage the dash.

You could cut and grind it out but you have access issues on the back of the dash panel.

If you can get your hands on an oxy/propane torch and a VERY small tip you can get the brass to flow little by little and push the patch away from the dash. You will probably get some distortion that way too.

Unbrazing a bicycle tube is much easier because the joint is a vey tight fit and you can heat the whole lug without distorting it and slide the tube out when the brass flows.
 

Drake2

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 11, 2017
Messages
2,249
Location
Wisconsin
Well, it was difficult to do cruiser work tonight while @UltraFJ40 was on my mind but I did manage to get the rear bearings pulled (knocked) out of the centered rear axle. I got some clarification on technique from @Cruiser_Nerd about the best way to remove these little bastards. Now I can finally start the beautification process on the housing. Next will be some wire wheel action, paint stripper, degreaser, and new paint. Also need to remove the OEM studs and re-drill and tap for the larger studs to accommodate the 1980 differential.

1587537232986.JPEG


1587537232749.JPEG


1587537699182.JPEG
 

Drake2

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 11, 2017
Messages
2,249
Location
Wisconsin
I was going through cruiser progress withdrawal so went to work on the rear housing from @Tank5 . Pulled the M8 studs so I could clean the housing. After the new hardware shows up I can drill and tap for M10-1.25 studs to match the holes of the newer differential.

Rear housing before the cleaning process

1588450868916.JPEG


1588450868224.JPEG


Rear housing after cleaning with a Milwaukee angle grinder and twisted wire cup wheel....about 1 hour total cleaning time.

1588450860848.JPEG


1588450865773.JPEG


Clearly this housing has seen a lot of action

1588450863031.JPEG


Time to buy a gallon of Oil Eater degreaser and figure out which semi-gloss black paint to use (POR15, Chassis Saver, Eastwood, Etc...). If you have any suggestions on the paint (rust inhibitor) please let me know.

Thanks,
Drake
 

Drake2

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 11, 2017
Messages
2,249
Location
Wisconsin
Been a while since making any progress here but here is a small update. Looks like when the body comes off there will be a good amount of time removing/fixing PO related "good ideas". Although this will be receiving a Chevy SB400 I am pretty sure the mounts should all come off so I am starting with a clean slate. What the Po was thinking with some of this I have no clue, all i do not is that I am going to be eating grinding dust for days.

1603322642071_LI.jpg


1603322642352_LI.jpg


1603322642624_LI.jpg


1603322643169_LI.jpg


1603322643931_LI.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Messages
626
Location
Atlanta
Has anyone seen had this happen to their races (Koyo 303030) ? When I disassembled the knuckles everything had decent grease and nothing was dry other than the exposed outer surface of the knuckle balls. I would estimate these wear spots to be 0.003"-0.005" deep. Both upper and lower races had the same effect but the lower ones are the worst. The axle is from an 02/1980 FJ40.

View attachment 2219777

View attachment 2219779

View attachment 2219780
I replaced mine in my 1977 FJ40 about a year ago and they had a similar wear pattern. Not quite as bad though.

002.JPG
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom