For those with torsion bar questions (2 Viewers)

[studawg]

Nice Cruisers Gunney. So if you don't get the vehicle aligned after cranking the T bars, the vehicle will settle back to its previous height?

 

[duggy]

No, I don't think that's completely true. It will settle after you lower it from the jackstands and drive it but should not settle THAT much

 

[PDPerry]

Nice Cruisers Gunney. So if you don't get the vehicle aligned after cranking the T bars, the vehicle will settle back to its previous height?

No. You'll just be out of alignment, and prematurely wear-out your front tires.

 

[Ermagerd]

I really wish there were pictures with this. If anyone can post these, it would be great!

 

[VCCruzr]

I really wish there were pictures with this. If anyone can post these, it would be great!

X2

 

[crimsonaudio]

I really wish there were pictures with this. If anyone can post these, it would be great!

If someone will forward them to me I'll host them on my server in perpetuity...

 

[DOGMARLEY]

Do the factory front shocks have to be replaced with longer shocks after a lift (3/4 to 1") from adjusting the factory torsion bars?

Thanks

 

[Ermagerd]

ThE shocks aren't the limiter, it's the upper control arms. Either way you shouldn't need them with 1" lift. Do a search for checking droop after you crank up your torsion bars

 

[Johnny Brasko]

Pictures please!

 

[e34croak]

Pics! Boring day at work. Need the technicians to do something.

 

[Ermagerd]

It's really straight forward to do this; an adjustment consists of turning one bolt per side, then remeasuring droop. I did mine in less than 20 minutes with a jack and a cordless 1/2" impact. It is fun to have pictures on hand though.

 

[IsaacUribe]

Very nice post, thank you. (please update the pics as well, nothing like visuals when doing stuff for the first time).

 

[WiscoProud]

It's really straight forward to do this; an adjustment consists of turning one bolt per side, then remeasuring droop. I did mine in less than 20 minutes with a jack and a cordless 1/2" impact. It is fun to have pictures on hand though.

I was wondering if I could use my cordless impact to do this. Most of the write-ups use a breaker bar, but an impact sounds a lot quicker (providing you already have one). Did you have a hard time "fine tuning" your lift?

 

[BamaHeel]

You could but it might be hard to tell how many revolutions you turned the nut.

 

[Manhattan]

I wouldn't bother with the cordless impact, or anything other than a simple, long wrench with the socket. I used an 18" breaker bar and the 30mm socket. Soak the bolt with PB Blaster or some other penetrating lube, come back the next day, and turn the bolts.

The long wrench makes it easy. But, you want to be able to count the turns, e.g. 6 turns on this side, 6 turns on that side... drop, measure, etc. With an impact, it'd be tough to gauge how much you turned the bolts.

This mod is so simple, it's hard to call it a mod. I'd rank it between installing new floor mats and setting the radio presets.

 

[duggy]

It's easy to count the revolutions with an impact. My socket is an impact socket and the size of the socket was laser etched into the side of it so I used that as a revolution marker. If not, just use a sharpie and put a mark on the socket.

 

[ylexot]

It is usually important to count the number of rotations you turn on each side. I used a breaker bar to adjust my torsion bar tension, but I could have easily turned it with a regular length ratchet. The breaker bar made it pretty fool proof to count the rotations. I was surprised how little torque it required. Perhaps others had a different experience.

(Oops. Looks like someone beat me to the punch.)

 

[n55luvr]

It can require quite a bit of effort for rust belt trucks. I soaked my nuts in PB (haha) for a few days leading up to it and it was still tough to turn mine with a breaker bar. I could do it with one hand and brace myself with the other but it wasn't a cake walk like some of you are lucky enough to encounter. Fresh bolts are much easier to turn.

Also, just to share my experience, I did not have to touch my passenger side bolt at all. For what ever reason my driver side was sagging really bad so it took probably 8 turns to get it even with PS. Still have some thread left if I decide I want to go to complete level but as of now I like the way it feels with the front a little lower than the rear.

 

[Ermagerd]

I was wondering if I could use my cordless impact to do this. Most of the write-ups use a breaker bar, but an impact sounds a lot quicker (providing you already have one). Did you have a hard time "fine tuning" your lift?

Like others mentioned, an wratchet/breaker bar may be easier if you are trying to count revolutions. For me, I don't care if one side is 1/32" different than the other side, so the actual adjustment of the bars took maybe 15 secs. The rest of the time was the jacking up of the vehicle, pulling wheels, etc. I needed to raise my driver's side by 1.5" and the passenger side 3/4" less (if memory serves). I didn't count any threads when I hit the bolts with the impact- I simply watched the arm the bolt attaches to move, and estimated from there. Somehow, I got both sides within 1/16" of each other on the first try. If you don't want to waste a bunch of time re-jacking over and over, then my approach might not be the best.

Edit: Below is the result of the bars being adjusted, an alignment, and '15 tundra wheels with 1.25" spidertrax spacers. (Yes I know I have a dent on the fender)

 

[BamaHeel]

Why did you "pull the wheels"?

Does that mean take the wheels off? If so, why?