For those with torsion bar questions (1 Viewer)

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Any way to get the posters pictures back??
 
This happens all the time and ruins great install threads. I have no idea why people don't just post their pictures on mud, it's free and the pictures will never just disappear. Guys I did a pretty good job detailing the lift install on mine. Click the link in my signature for a complete write up.
 
I've got some decent photos an descriptions on my build thread as well.
 
Great thread! I also want to thank you for posting this.
 
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Do any of you use coil spring spacers on the rear of your 100's? I know that they are used on 80 Series, as well as TJ and JK Jeep Wranglers. American pickup trucks have used them for many years.

Spring spacers are used on the 100 series but I think you'll find it fairly more common that people swap out their stock springs for OME springs whether they be the 865 or 866 variety. I am personally going to crank my torsion bars using this thread and will grab a set of OME 866 springs (Heavy Load) to achieve about 2" of lift, and if this is not enough (might run 315/75 tires) I could add spring spacers on top of that. But in the mean time, 285/75 with some 866 springs is going to serve me just fine :)

Thanks for the write up!
 
Has anyone actually measure the fender hub distance after driving several miles? When I adjusted the bars (4 full CW turns) about 2 weeks ago, the front end raised 1 full inch. I re-measured them today and the suspension was down to stock numbers. So I went back to stock adjustments, then re-did the recommended adjustments + 2 for a total of 6 CW turns. Re-measured and this time I gained 1.25" but after driving only 60 miles the suspension went down an inch. Anyone knows what's going on here?
 
Has anyone actually measure the fender hub distance after driving several miles? When I adjusted the bars (4 full CW turns) about 2 weeks ago, the front end raised 1 full inch. I re-measured them today and the suspension was down to stock numbers. So I went back to stock adjustments, then re-did the recommended adjustments + 2 for a total of 6 CW turns. Re-measured and this time I gained 1.25" but after driving only 60 miles the suspension went down an inch. Anyone knows what's going on here?

The IFS follows an arc, so it takes a short drive to find its final position as the tires scrub in/out. However, you should be over 1/4" net from 6 turns. You don't have AHC do you?
 
wow, this thread still has legs. :hillbilly:

Strange that your 100 levels out after cranking and reindexing, if it happened once Id say your torsion bars are shot but twice :meh:
 
Strange that your 100 levels out after cranking and reindexing, if it happened once Id say your torsion bars are shot but twice :meh:

I did not re-index...I just went back to stock (4 turns CCW) then 6 CW turns.
 
You should get an alignment after raising the front. I lifted my front 0.75", then it settled to around 1/4". Post alignment, I was back at the 0.75 lift, which was evident of the caster adjustment.
 
Thank you for the great info. Couple of quick questions for before I take on the TB crank task.

1. Is it better to measure and crank the TBs before or after new, oversized tires are installed?
2. Where is the best place to jack up the vehicle from the front? The write up says "from the chassis, not the axle" but I am wondering if anyone has a good spot to use.

Thanks
 
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You should get an alignment after raising the front. I lifted my front 0.75", then it settled to around 1/4". Post alignment, I was back at the 0.75 lift, which was evident of the caster adjustment.

Is this a typical response after adjusting torsion bars then getting an alignment?

I finished the OME 2.5 inch install today (Slee heavies in rear and OME torsion bars for the front). Measured center hub to fender edge at 21.5 inches (both sides). Did a short drive and remeasured at just under 21 inches. Cranked on the torsion bars and raised front to 21.75 inches (both sides). Another short drive and remeasured front at 21.25 inches. I'd like the front at 21.5 inches but am worried about turning the the torsion bars anymore before the alignment if I can expect some lift afterwards. Anyone else have similar experience with their suspension lift?
 
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check my build thread but YES the lines are on top...loosen nut and then simple o-ring seal holds in place...pop out and is disconnected. Then remove shock...the nut for this is tricky to reach but can be done WITHOUT cutting hole in cargo bed.

Also FYI for folks with AHC, you truly cannot use the AHC model torsion bars with regular shocks. The truck cannot support its own weight on the AHC bars. Mine is in the garage right now sitting on the bump stops, after reindexing and cranking the bars! They are super super weak.

I just ordered TJM torsion bars from Andy's Auto Sport, that will fix it :)
 
This is great work Gunney, I'm cranking mine this weekend, I'm at about a 2" rank and want a little less stinkbug.

Anywho, I copied off the torsion bar instructions and made a pdf and word docs out of the for easier printing and usage, hope you don't mind :), and thought that the rest of the community might appreciate having them. I've got them on dropbox for anyone who wants them.

pdf link:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23419086/Gunney Torsion Bars.pdf

Word Link:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23419086/Gunney Torsion Bars.docx

Thanks again.
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