For those with torsion bar questions (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Gunney
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OK so bought a propane torch. Plan on heating up the Anchor swivel real good then trying impact wrench again. Penetrating oil has been on it since last night. What I need to know is what happens if the bolt breaks? Should I remove the nuts on the forward end by the front to take off some of the pressure? I don't want the impact gun to be jammed into my ribs if it breaks and the load unwinds...the bolt's only about 1 inch from all the way torqued down. some safety precautions ??
View attachment 1315060
Is the bolt loose like this? If so you should have no tension on the TB and is safe to remove. The key should be hanging free like in the pic above. Got a pic?
Is the bolt loose like this? If so you should have no tension on the TB and is safe to remove. The key should be hanging free like in the pic above. Got a pic?
93yotasr5
Come and take it
So I just put 4 complete turns on the drivers side and it only raised the front about 3/4". Is this normal? It is now level with the passenger side (19.5" fender to center cap) This is after I drove it to allow it to settle. How do I know if I'm to the point of needing to re-index my TBs? If I have enough thread left can I turn it to the point of getting 20-20.5"?
Thanks
Thanks
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I just put in LC tbars in my lx470 and now I have a tonnn more thread to crank on. Is there an ideal height at all 4 corners? Should it be the same height on both sides/front to back? I'm around 21in hub to wheel well plus or minus half an inch all the way around
Just did the rear on one of mine, i took one look at how to take them off and didnt have a 22mm ratchet so i just saw zawed the shaft in between the rubber bushing and it worked. I wasnt about to struggle with an old nut.. slee said they crush the shock cover to hold the shaft in place which ruins the old ones so i figured might as well cut it its ruined either way. I tackle the front tomorrow... the rear seemed eassy just more effort to cut the shafts or even unbolt those bolts..
At least 1" lower in the front compared to rear. So if rear is 21", front should be 20". Also droop is the limiting factor to how high you can crank the front up. As you raise the front droop decreases. Droop set with no less than 50mm(2") 60mm is better, 70mm even better.
As you raise the front, your caster will decrease too and you'll want to adjust caster via an alignment.
After reading this thread, i feel much better about my LC. For some reason, my driver's side front was sitting an inch lower than the passenger side. I cranked the driver's side 5 turns and it wouldn't go anymore, passenger side i didn't touch since it evened out after that.
Even with the crank, the front is still sitting 2" lower than the rears, i don't know if i can re-index my TB because it's rusted up to s***s down there, i had to use a 4ft pipe on a breaker bar, total of about 5.5ft of leverage to get the 30mm adjusting bolt to turn. I was close to pulling the truck off its jackstands, man the rust bowl sucks.
Stink bug rake after installing 30mm rear spring spacers
Even with the crank, the front is still sitting 2" lower than the rears, i don't know if i can re-index my TB because it's rusted up to s***s down there, i had to use a 4ft pipe on a breaker bar, total of about 5.5ft of leverage to get the 30mm adjusting bolt to turn. I was close to pulling the truck off its jackstands, man the rust bowl sucks.
Stink bug rake after installing 30mm rear spring spacers
A 1-2" rake is normalAfter reading this thread, i feel much better about my LC. For some reason, my driver's side front was sitting an inch lower than the passenger side. I cranked the driver's side 5 turns and it wouldn't go anymore, passenger side i didn't touch since it evened out after that.
Even with the crank, the front is still sitting 2" lower than the rears, i don't know if i can re-index my TB because it's rusted up to s***s down there, i had to use a 4ft pipe on a breaker bar, total of about 5.5ft of leverage to get the 30mm adjusting bolt to turn. I was close to pulling the truck off its jackstands, man the rust bowl sucks.
Stink bug rake after installing 30mm rear spring spacers
stink bug rake after installing 30mm spring spacers in the rear...
So i've read, but doesn't look normal i'd prefer a more balanced look.
So i've read, but doesn't look normal
i'd prefer a more balanced look.
The vehicle dynamics are engineered to have the 1-2" rake. Without it, the vehicle will drive like mud. Several have "leveled" their rake and gone right back to the 1-2" rake because the vehicle felt unstable. I'd go no less than a 1" rake personally.
After reading this thread, i feel much better about my LC. For some reason, my driver's side front was sitting an inch lower than the passenger side. I cranked the driver's side 5 turns and it wouldn't go anymore, passenger side i didn't touch since it evened out after that.
Even with the crank, the front is still sitting 2" lower than the rears, i don't know if i can re-index my TB because it's rusted up to s***s down there, i had to use a 4ft pipe on a breaker bar, total of about 5.5ft of leverage to get the 30mm adjusting bolt to turn. I was close to pulling the truck off its jackstands, man the rust bowl sucks.
Stink bug rake after installing 30mm rear spring spacers
It much easier to turn the bolt with the front end jacked up and most of the weight taken off the tires. I recommend saving your back from pulling with a big cheater bar. if really rusty give it a long soak in bolt blaster (PB). looks good now!
Yeah I have both wheels off the ground when I crank the TB. Was hoping for a 1" rake, but I'm at 2" and to out of threads to crank the driver's side TB. Passenger side has plenty threads left but it's sitting even with the driver's side
Getting ready to re-index my TB this weekend, i just want 1" rake, im at like 2.25" right now, friends who don't own LCs look at my truck and was like, why is your back so high?
Anyways, i'm trying to understand how turning the TB a few splines counter clockwise allow me to crank the TB bolt and raise the car? It doesn't really make sense, no length is added or anything. Basically i just have to undo the TB bolts and pull it out, turn it counter clockwise a few mm and that'll allow me to have more threads on the "B" bolt for adjustment?
Anyways, i'm trying to understand how turning the TB a few splines counter clockwise allow me to crank the TB bolt and raise the car? It doesn't really make sense, no length is added or anything. Basically i just have to undo the TB bolts and pull it out, turn it counter clockwise a few mm and that'll allow me to have more threads on the "B" bolt for adjustment?
This subject confuses the heck out of me so I put this graphic together to help me visualize the concept.
Would welcome feedback and comments and, above all, confirmation that this is correct or not.
Would welcome feedback and comments and, above all, confirmation that this is correct or not.
Plan to replace my maxed out stock tb's in the morning, need some help! So I basically remove the old, re-index bolt B, then install the new and crank until proper droop and lift is achieved?
Yeah, just pull the bar out enough past LC mount and turn it to the left a few splines (driver side) on the passenger side you go clockwise
When you say mount, would that be the housing? Just trying to get the terminology correct, looking at Gunney's write up!
Tb's almost out, now I am trying to remove the tb from the anchor arm! Using plenty of pb any ideas on how to remove this?
