For diesel swap - what engine should I be looking for? (1 Viewer)

[daCruiser]

Asking since it was very difficult to find proper threads with valuable information. I'm seriously considering diesel swap on my `96 and there are so many different threads / suggestions / information that got me lost.

Basically, looking for the best bang for the buck - Diesel engine / trans (do I need to replace the trans?) with as easy as possible swap.

 

[nickolai]

Any 1H series toyota diesel will bolt up to the factory mounts, and with the right bellhousing/TC you can run the factory A440 or A442F trans, using the factory mounts.

1HZ - non turbo, gutless but reliable (can be turbo'd but doesn't have oil squirters and stronger pistons)
1HDT -12v turbo, mech injection (in the early HDJ80/1)
1HDFT 24v turbo, mech injection (late HDJ80/1)
1HDFTE 24v turbo, electronic injection (100 series)

The 1HDFT is the sweet spot, ignoring of course that they're probably pretty hard to find in LA. 24valve, flow well, are direct injected and don't have the wiring to fuss with that the FTE has. Its not hard its just that the 1HDFT only has a fuel cut solenoid to worry about.

 

[Heckraiser]

Toyota diesel (as posted above) would definitely be the easiest swap as you're using factory parts that are meant to bolt up to an 80.

Cummins (either 2.8 or 5.9) will require custom fabrication or aftermarket parts and a big shoehorn. 2.8 is quite spendy and will require a little tuning to create enough power to satisfy the typical american driver. 5.9 can be found relatively easily and will give you more power than you know what to do with (pull down a house?) Can be mated to the stock toyota auto or run with an nv4500.

Oddball entries:

• Isuzu 4bd1t (4 liter, 4 cylinder) is supposedly a nice engine, but be prepared for some custom work to swap it in. Been done in several 60 series, but I've never seen one in an 80. Works with a chevy transmission (4l60/80 or nv4500)
• Cummins 4bt (4 liter, 4 cylinder) -by all accounts pretty uncivilized (loud, harsh, rattle your teeth out) but reliable and capable of good power/economy.
• Mercedes OM (pick your variant, there are many to choose from). Quite civilized and capable of a lot of power, but you better be an ace mechanic, because you'll be inventing every part to make this work. I have seen it done in an 80.

 

[nickolai]

oh and take all the fuel economy numbers you see on line for factory / toyota swapped diesel 80s with a pinch of salt. They're not as efficient as people like to believe. Certainly better than an FZ but not incredible.

 

[Dirty Koala]

There arent really any 'bang for your buck' options when it comes to deisel swaps like there is with dropping an inexpensive LSX in. The best 'bang for buck' measure that I can come up with is $ / Horse Torques. Since the cost to swap in any of the above motors will be roughly the same ($10-$15k DIY or $20-$30k Pro Shop), then go for the motor that will produce the largest go-go numbers....hint 12V cummins.

 

[daCruiser]

Thanks for all the great info!

There arent really any 'bang for your buck' options when it comes to deisel swaps like there is with dropping an inexpensive LSX in. The best 'bang for buck' measure that I can come up with is $ / Horse Torques. Since the cost to swap in any of the above motors will be roughly the same ($10-$15k DIY or $20-$30k Pro Shop), then go for the motor that will produce the largest go-go numbers....hint 12V cummins.

With regards to LSx, since in CA, when swapping to diesel there's no need for smog (applicable for pre - 2010 models). After that .. who knowns what's next.

BTW, how did you get to $10K to $30K range? If engine is around $5K .. installation would cost that much?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Thanks for all the great info!



With regards to LSx, since in CA, when swapping to diesel there's no need for smog (applicable for pre - 2010 models). After that .. who knowns what's next.

BTW, how did you get to $10K to $30K range? If engine is around $5K .. installation would cost that much?

I have done a few conversions myself, being one of the Cummins in an 80 pioneers from 5 years ago gave me a lot of insight into the DIY costs. I had 15k in parts, but that included a full engine rebuild which was about 6k. There is a lot more expense than just the cost of a used motor. You have to account for adapters, intercooler, Transmission (including trans rebuild parts) clutch assemblies, 80 series clutch pedals, hydraulics, engine accessories, engine mounts, air plumbing, PS plumbing, air filtration, wiring harness modification, shift consoles. If going auto you have to address trans control, bellhousing, torque converter mods,

Even without rebuilding a motor you are looking at about 10k in parts alone. Now if you decide to have a shop do a conversion you have to pay for their time which isn’t cheap. Call any shop that does conversions and you will be looking at about 10-15k in labor plus parts. That is how I got to the low end DIY to high end Shop cost range of 10-30k.

If you go the Toyota diesel route, the cost of a used motor is closer to 10k alone without a rebuild, but you will save some of those dollars back on not needing as many custom adapters etc. In the end the cost is a wash when doing a diesel swap with one exception. If you have the fab skills to make all your adapters yourself, then yes you could do it on the cheap...but if you had that skill set and required machine shop equipment I doubt this thread would have been created.

 

[scottryana]

Bolts-in, in a weekend.

 

[daCruiser]

I have done a few conversions myself, being one of the Cummins in an 80 pioneers from 5 years ago gave me a lot of insight into the DIY costs. I had 15k in parts, but that included a full engine rebuild which was about 6k. There is a lot more expense than just the cost of a used motor. You have to account for adapters, intercooler, Transmission (including trans rebuild parts) clutch assemblies, 80 series clutch pedals, hydraulics, engine accessories, engine mounts, air plumbing, PS plumbing, air filtration, wiring harness modification, shift consoles. If going auto you have to address trans control, bellhousing, torque converter mods,

Even without rebuilding a motor you are looking at about 10k in parts alone. Now if you decide to have a shop do a conversion you have to pay for their time which isn’t cheap. Call any shop that does conversions and you will be looking at about 10-15k in labor plus parts. That is how I got to the low end DIY to high end Shop cost range of 10-30k.

If you go the Toyota diesel route, the cost of a used motor is closer to 10k alone without a rebuild, but you will save some of those dollars back on not needing as many custom adapters etc. In the end the cost is a wash when doing a diesel swap with one exception. If you have the fab skills to make all your adapters yourself, then yes you could do it on the cheap...but if you had that skill set and required machine shop equipment I doubt this thread would have been created.

Thanks

 

[ZackR]

Always have to throw this in - what is the end goal you are looking to achieve with a diesel that your current setup isn't providing, then work backwards from there on what path to take.

I used to think how cool it would be to have a diesel cruiser, manual transmission, etc... then I looked at my actual usage and needs and realized my current setup works just fine. YMMV

 

[daCruiser]

Always have to throw this in - what is the end goal you are looking to achieve with a diesel that your current setup isn't providing, then work backwards from there on what path to take.

I used to think how cool it would be to have a diesel cruiser, manual transmission, etc... then I looked at my actual usage and needs and realized my current setup works just fine. YMMV

With the big tires, lift and added wight - looking for more power. As a bonus, no need to smog EVER.

 

[bigredmachine]

to add more options you could try a yanmar 6lp as thats just a rebranded 1hz for a marine application and they are very plentiful. Yanmar 6lp someone is potentially working on doing the swap now

 

[Dirty Koala]

I have both a Turbo’d 1FZ -FE LX450 and a Cummins 12v 80 series Landcruiser and both have their place for me. They are both tractor motors, but Obviously the LX is more civilized.

The Cummins has oodles and oodles of throw you back in the seat torque and that sound that everyone recognizes. If you like rowing gears, then a diesel swap is cool and fun. If you want an auto, I would be looking at turboing your 1FZ-FE or an LSX + 6L80E swap.

 

[olive]

Toyota diesel (as posted above) would definitely be the easiest swap as you're using factory parts that are meant to bolt up to an 80.

Cummins (either 2.8 or 5.9) will require custom fabrication or aftermarket parts and a big shoehorn. 2.8 is quite spendy and will require a little tuning to create enough power to satisfy the typical american driver. 5.9 can be found relatively easily and will give you more power than you know what to do with (pull down a house?) Can be mated to the stock toyota auto or run with an nv4500.

Oddball entries:

• Isuzu 4bd1t (4 liter, 4 cylinder) is supposedly a nice engine, but be prepared for some custom work to swap it in. Been done in several 60 series, but I've never seen one in an 80. Works with a chevy transmission (4l60/80 or nv4500)
• Cummins 4bt (4 liter, 4 cylinder) -by all accounts pretty uncivilized (loud, harsh, rattle your teeth out) but reliable and capable of good power/economy.
• Mercedes OM (pick your variant, there are many to choose from). Quite civilized and capable of a lot of power, but you better be an ace mechanic, because you'll be inventing every part to make this work. I have seen it done in an 80.

I just picked up an 80 series with a Isuzu 4BD1T mated to a Toyota auto trans, runs great but parts pretty much have to come from a Isuzu dealer.

 

[shocktower]

I guess it is my turn, I love my 80 more than ever, I did a 6bt swap I have over 65 K in miles it is my DD, and I still really enjoy every time I drive it, I got way more out of what I put into it. The only let down is the transmission, I use the A343F with a stand alone, but the the gearing in the cruiser is to low for the Cummins but i did put in some things to help it , I used the kit from diesel adapters it took me 3 days to do the swap, but I had done several before so I know all of the things that need to be done. The idea of all of these things you will need to fab is true, if you don't get some of the thing's needed like motor mounts and some sort of adapter plate for either your transfer case or the transmission and all of the inter cooler plumbing and inter cooler . I have heard of some new things coming out for the swap no kit but important items . I will say something if it comes about

 

[baldilocks]

I’ve heard good things about The Cummins N14.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I’ve heard good things about The Cummins N14.

now that would be an impressive swap. N14 with A Jake brake would sound sweet in an 80.

 

[mct75]

Whatever you get, it needs to have an air starter

 

[joe80]

1hdt is the easiest swap.... Have looked at it for mine, but it would cost me much more than it cost to buy the truck. There's plenty easy upgrades available for them in OZ and can easily run crawler gears and monster tyres.

We aren't as lucky to have affordable diesel replacement options (we are lucky enough to have stock diesels though!). Cummins etc will cost your first born and the rest here. If you can do that... heck yeah!

Good luck. Keen to see what you end up with.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Currently doing a 1HDT Swap in my FZJ80. I'm halfway there and the parts costs add up QUICK. And I was lucky enough to find a rusted out 1HDT/H151 for a reasonable price (still not cheap but cheaper than a used motors alone). I'm doing a refresh (not a full rebuild, down to the block/head/pistons stay in) because I had good compression and drove the rust bucket as it was for a bit.

You really need a good reason to do a swap like this. If you're looking for better mileage (especially with keeping the 4spd auto), forget it. Yeah, it's likely to be a little bit better but you have to drive an insane number of miles to make up the cost of the swap. If you're simply in the "diesels are cool!" camp, then you have to decide what that's worth to you. (How many smog tests can you deal with for $20k?) You won't make up the money EVER if you have to sell it. For the cost of the swap you can easily buy a RHD diesel in the US. You can even import a LHD one reasonably if you have the patience to work within the system.

I'm building my forever truck. I live in my truck (literally) most of the year. I bought an 80 with the engine already out and planned to take the body off and baseline EVERYTHING. So it was a no-brainer for me.

I had actually planned on putting an OM606 Mercedes diesel in before the 1HDT fell in my lap. There was going to be a LOT of fabrication on that one. Not impossible by any stretch, plenty have been done before. Just a lot of planning. There's still plenty to keep me busy on the 1HDT swap, mostly because the donor was RHD and my FZJ80 frame was auto. So it's kind of a triple swap.