maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Try as boogerweldz said, raise your stock panhard.
Flexing the 3 link (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter joker2040
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Intended at the same time as high steer, front and rear.
Still have to C&T, even with current setup. Weighing the return on investment.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Model raising the track bar in a suspension calculator. It's not as great of an ROI as it would be if it were a short track bar. Even with a lift, the geometry really isn't that horrible.
You have quite a few potential solutions to consider. Suspension is suspension is suspension. The vehicle you're engineering for will have different physical constraints and CG and so on, but it's all on the table as far as potentials. The 80 really isn't *that* bad to change the geometry on, except for the goofy steering.
Have you bothered checking out what my solution for the rear does? Reducing roll oversteer in the rear may make you a happy camper again. And you get better flex and a higher roll center in the process.
You have quite a few potential solutions to consider. Suspension is suspension is suspension. The vehicle you're engineering for will have different physical constraints and CG and so on, but it's all on the table as far as potentials. The 80 really isn't *that* bad to change the geometry on, except for the goofy steering.
Have you bothered checking out what my solution for the rear does? Reducing roll oversteer in the rear may make you a happy camper again. And you get better flex and a higher roll center in the process.
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
How much lift do you have that you need to cut and turn.
An unplanned 5".
The issue is in the arms. They don't correct neither pinion angle, nor caster.
Front driveshaft issue was resolved with a double, double cardan shaft.
Caster=C&T.
Best I can think of to continue forward with what I have is to C&T, raise panhards, frame mounted rear sway bar, and HF knuckles. This would allow for hydro assist, too, that I currently don't have room for.
A lot of effort to still have a double, double cardan shaft and a 5"/5.25" lift that's taller than I wanted, primarily due to the on road issues I wound up with anyway.
I considered raising the upper coil/shock mounts to lower and level, too, but all is a tremendous amount of work with no guarantee it'll result what I want.
Have a new OE front housing to use, if going down the path above.
Friggin' booger has me thinking that, if going down the road of completely redoing everything, a 9.5" E locked front diff, in the same manner as he fabbed, makes sense.
Panhard relocation, high steer, linked front and rear, all on COs would be the ultimate, but I'm short on shops capable, and I know I'm not.
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
I have a guy local to me that I would trust with my own vehicle. If that's the direction really do want to go.
Send me the name, or however you'd prefer to initiate conversation regarding.
I may have already spoke to them.
I tried this with you, Billy, Binks, and a few others several years ago.
At that time, no one was confident on road would equal off road, as I was honest about the exact goal and discretion it'd be measured in.
Guess I shoulda lied.
Know what I want and how I want it to perform, just need a shop to listen and produce. Considering the recent "build" and acquaintance has at FC's and his discriminating butt dyno, I know it's possible.
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
Call me at 3:45.
818 402 6945
818 402 6945
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
3:42 here.
You removed the rear set of steering stops to run the coilovers axle mount like that I'm assuming?
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
If I remember correctly. All but one of the steering stops are built into the factory suspension brackets. So removal is mandatory.
Yes to get optimal turning radius the rear stops needed to be removed due to the lower CO mounts
I was using it as a landmark, guessing where you mounted the axle end...
I'm needing to go behind the axle as we'll now. In order to avoid the stellar factory air box. My current mounts are on top of the axle.
I'm needing to go behind the axle as we'll now. In order to avoid the stellar factory air box. My current mounts are on top of the axle.
True, i fiddled around with different angles and such and this seems to be the best bet without moving the stock air box and abs manifold/lines.
Quick report, spent last weekend on the Fordyce trail and this rig never missed a beat. No front locker and never had to hit an obstacle twice.. This beast hooks up great and has fantastic control. Zero body damage.
PICS!
Ill see if anyone got any good shots from the trip and post em up
So does this rig do soup can and winch hill 1 and 3? Or just along for the scenery? 
get a front locker so you can further exploit it's potential.
get a front locker so you can further exploit it's potential.
