Builds FlatRok40 build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 31, 2006
Threads
57
Messages
571
Location
Nebraska
I figured I would start a build thread-I already have threads all over the forum so I figured I would try and keep it in one spot. Well a little history-bought the cruiser about 4yrs ago. It had a 2.5 lift and 33's and inside was stock with some home made rollbar. I have had a couple different lifts. The one I have now is a hellcreek 4" lift with proffits SR and bilstein shocks. Rides pretty well and wheels okay. I am now tearing it all down and doing a SOA with high steer, TBI SBC with a 465/toybox/splitcase. I will be using 60 series axles CNT and stock leafs for the spring over. Will get a new wiring harness and tilt colum. I have been buying parts for about 8 months and reading all I can trying to get ready. I am probally a :banana: and a half mechanic. I have never done any thing like this before as in a complete tear down. I have built my shop around this build up, buying tools and welders to get ready. This has been planned for quite awhile. Started taking out bolts and here I am.:cheers:
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A few more pics
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I got all of the old brackets cut off last night and will try and get the frame all cleaned up tonite. The wiring is all in a box and have the old motor seperated from tranny. The 465 is off to the rebuild shop and the toybox is on order. They said that it will take about 3-4 weeks so that kinda sucks but I guess I have plenty of stuff to do.
 
looks to me like your more than 1.5 bananas

good luck keep the pictures coming and ask all the questions you need.

good call on the soa youll love it
 
I was looking at the IDIDIT colums and really like them. My brother n law told me about cpc (I think that is what they are called) colums apparently they are like the ididit but aliltte cheaper something about the turn signal switch so I am going to look into them. Need to save on all the parts I can. Going to start filling in holes in the firewall in a couple of days.
 
The seat came out of a mini van that my friend was selling. It has been awhile but if I remember right I cut 13" out of the middle and welded back together so I could keep the factory seatbelt mounting holes. Then I built a mounting bracket for it so it would sit at the right height and had a guy cover it with boat vinyl.
 
:popcorn: :beer:

Looks like a good start!

Wishing that I'd done a build thread right about now.
 
Spent A little time in shop yesterday. I got some of the holes filled in the firewall and all painted back up. The PO took a torch and cut the hole for the brakebooster so it would fit. Gotta love PO's:mad:
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Just painted with some undercoating
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When you guys change your steering to a high steer kit do you need to recenter your knuckles? I am using the same housing and kept the old shims that I took out. The new high steer arms measure about the same as the old ones did. I do not have a centering tool and was wondering if I put the old shims back in if that would be close. I am running marlin seals. My 3rd members showed up last night with my new gears and lockers so my axles can go back together.
 
Did you get a knuckle rebuild kit? If not I would for sure do that while you are there.

The shims determine the correct "drag" on the knuckle when it's turned. Improper "drag" (to loose/tight) will cause the trunion bearings to wear quicker.

It's somewhat of a process, but fairly easy. The rebuild kit will have different thickness' of shims so you can get the correct tolerance. Replace the trunion bearings and races also.
 
I have a knuckle rebuild kit from Kurt. My question is could I use the new shims but same size as the old ones(make sense) when I put it back together.
 
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I have a knuckle rebuild kit from Kurt. My question is could I use the new shims but same size as the old ones(make sense) when I put it back together.

Yes, if you measure your shims and replace them with new shims in the exact order and location, you should land exactly where you did previous. That said you should always double check your knuckle bearing pre-load after you torque the knuckle studs to spec. Adjust if needed.
 
Okay finally figured out the knuckles and have them put on and the preload is good only took a couple times:clap:. Next step is the frame. What is the best way to go about the holes on the inside of the frame. I was planning of doing some stitch welds along the top and bottom. I was wanting to run a plate along the inside from the radiator support back to the firewall. What size of plate would be appropriate like 1/8. That way I have something to weld to for motor mounts and shackles.
 
good luck with the build... oh yea on the previous owners thing .... oh yea i know what your saying. made me take my cruiser apart one bad p.o. job at a time til i just had a frame ..:doh:
 
Well had some time to spend in the shop so I built some sliders. I took off the old steps and found a bunch of holes and then came the diamond plate. Its alway a guess whats behind there. Well turned out a hole lotta rust and on the other side there was nothing. So after learning how to do body work which sucks:bang:. I finally got to the sliders nothing fancy but should work good. Then got some hurculiner and painted the bottom half.
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I was able to use the stock mount in the front just had to modify it abit.:cheers:
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nice sliders, look similar to the pair i have

you did lie when you said you were only a 1.5 banana man

keep it up
 
Yea I used your thread to look at and some others. You do really good work. Fabbing up new stuff is not so bad. I don't have alot of knowlegde of motors and wiring. Going to have to learn quick though parts are starting to show up. Glad I found IH8MUD make you fell like anything is posssible.
 

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