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thats why i love my 40, i dont really (wink wink) know what im doing, i love trying new things and learning as i go. mud is an awesome forum for research and ideas

thanks for the ego boost



feel free to ask any questions etc, i am not a wiring guy either, thats where i struggle,
 
Thanks I sure I will once I start on setting the motor and starting the SOA in the front.
 
Well not a whole lot to update on the build but had a pretty good find today. I have been reading alot of post about what clutch to use and so on. I have ordered a Luk clutch for the tranny shop that rebuilt my 465. I have read that you need to run a low pro clutch to have the throw right and some post you don't so the one I ordered is not a low pro, it was the only one he listed. I have also read not to run a alum bellhousing and that you should have the cast bellhousing and the cast fork. I was going to run the alum bellhousing till about 1hr ago. Stopped by a friends house to grab some parts and low and behold there was a 465 with the cast housing and cast fork. He had pulled it from a truck he parted out for a guy and was tired of it sittting in the corner of his shop so he had just drug it out and was wondering what to do with it. It cost me a 12pk of budweiser and I had to take the whole thing:grinpimp:. Pretty pump about it being I was just reading about all of this. Tranny is done, Toybox is in the mail. Next week is going to kick a** and I am off the whole week.:bounce:
 
The clutch for you should be straight Chevrolet issue since you're Chevy motor & transmission. The low profile clutch comes into play when you match a Chevy motor with the stock Toyota transmission.
 
From some of the post I have read you also run into this problem with chevy motor, and tranny while using the toy slave.
 
Got home this am to change clothes and head back to work for another 24hrs and noticed I had a package:bounce::bounce:.Toybox for my SM465 to split case, now I can't wait to get home again to get started
toybox1.webp
toybox2.webp
toybox3.webp
 
Well after some snags in the building the toybox I finally have it all bolted together. Hopefull in the next couple of days I can find some help and get the motor set.:clap:
cruiser002.jpg

cruiser003.jpg
 
Thanks, your gasket set and seals worked great.
 
When I was getting ready to bolt the new cast bellhousing to the tranny I ran into a problem. The tranny that came with the bellhousing had the bolt holes on top threaded into the bellhousing and the bottom 2 threaded into the tranny. The tranny that I am using has no threads on the bottom for the bolts. So I can see 2 solutions
1) take the bellhousing down to a shop and tap some threads into it and probally have to reim the holes on the tranny to use bigger bolts
2) take and just put a regular grade 8 bolt through from the bellhousing side with a nut on the tranny side and use loktite and lock nut
Will either of these work, one better than the other. I am up for sugestions. I am just not sure what to do here.
Thanks
 
I say thread bolts through with red locktite and put a nut with lock washer on the other side. Should be plenty strong.
 
Well it is all put together and in the cruiser. The mating of the motor to the tranny set up was a bit of a chore but after a couple of :beer: and some :censor: they went. The motor ended up pretty far back so my shifter would clear the heater and I will not have any radiator problems. I also tried to set it up as high as possible for a flat belly but still be able to reuse the tranny cover. The tranny sits about an 1" below the frame rails. The splitcase is a different story seems to be way down there but I could'nt raise it any higher. I already need to trim the floor pan stiffener alittle. All in all went pretty good for somebody that has never done it before. I will keep everything tached till it is all assembled. Now I can start on the SOA. Here are some bad cell phone pics. I will add more once I get home from work
motor1.webp
motor2.webp
 
I am going to build my crossmember but ran into so problems. Since I am so close to the ps. I might have to bolt it to the outside of the frame. Should the crossmember be bolted to the frame rigid or should there be a bushing there too? I am using the mini truck mount on the toybox. Here is a couple of pics
cruiserbuild010.jpg

cruiserbuild006-1.jpg

here is a shot of the crossmember so far
cruiserbuild007-1.jpg
 
Well I had them move me over to the big boy section. I find that I am here most of the time asking questions about my junk. I know it's not very out of the box and has been done over and over but I think it is a better fit here. I hope you guys will have me:flipoff2:.
 
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This is looking vaguely familiar ! Looks a lot like what I have sitting in my garage right now.
Looking great brother!
I hear what youre saying about being moved over here. There's a lot of folks on the 40 section who do not appreciate the adulteration of the 40 s.

I'm tuned in. Keep it up.
Btw. Try your hardest to keep that x member off that lower edge of the frame rail. It'll be a rock magnet.
 
How much longer is your 350/465/toybox/splitcase than yout 2F/h42/one piece case combo? I am just starting a 350/465/203/splitcase swap myself, but I already have my SOA with the rear spring flip already done. I'm just wondering what length of driveshaft you are going to have, since you are ahead of me.

Thanks! Kevin
 
chicago said:
I'm tuned in. Keep it up.
Btw. Try your hardest to keep that x member off that lower edge of the frame rail. It'll be a rock magnet.
Click to expand...

I am going to try and 45 up the ends to meet the frame then tie them to a piece of angle then bolt them through the frame using 2 grade 8 bolts per side. Should I sleeve the frame for the bolts or just run them though? The piece of angle is 1/4.

mano002
The total for the toybox combo is about 26" from the bellhousing back, and the stock setup was about 19" from the bellhousing back. I had a 26" rear driveshaft and as it sits now without the SOA done the shaft would be 22". I can make up the difference by doing the SOA and flipping the rear springs. I went with the toybox because it was only 8" and had both adaptors and I did not have the 465 and 203 combo.
 
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