Flaming 40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Pura Vida
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Are those superwinch hubs on there? You will need a Torx to get those off. Those studs also can be a PITA and can shear or seize in the hubs.
Bleeding brakes, removing brake line, removing caliper, tie rod removal, superwinch hubs.
If you don't have compressed air, get it, to clear hydraulic lines - otherwise, I'd bleed as much junk out of your brake lines while the bleeder nipple is still part of the system, before you add new clean parts. Otherwise your new caliper pistons will be full of old master cylinder junk. I'd totally take the master cylinder apart, and see if it is still a good candidate for service. A can of brake fluid cleaner.
Vinyl 1/4" tube from the hardware store - near the appliance parts at ACE Hardware. This will be your brake bleeder kit. I use a heavy glass milk bottle as a reservoir for the fluid itself. I drilled a snug hole in the original cap to hold a section of clear vinyl tubing.
If you don't have compressed air, get it, to clear hydraulic lines - otherwise, I'd bleed as much junk out of your brake lines while the bleeder nipple is still part of the system, before you add new clean parts. Otherwise your new caliper pistons will be full of old master cylinder junk. I'd totally take the master cylinder apart, and see if it is still a good candidate for service. A can of brake fluid cleaner.
Vinyl 1/4" tube from the hardware store - near the appliance parts at ACE Hardware. This will be your brake bleeder kit. I use a heavy glass milk bottle as a reservoir for the fluid itself. I drilled a snug hole in the original cap to hold a section of clear vinyl tubing.
Get a good #3 Philips. Wrong.
Get JIS Vessel screwdrivers and an impact driver Wits' End is an authorized dealer of VESSEL Tools - https://absolute-wits-end.com/vessel-tools/. Regular Philips will strip out too many screw heads.
I've never had a problem, and own both. Pulled plenty of cruisers apart with a number 3.
That’s brake disc. Caliper is at right. I think Dizzy meaned these kind of calipers: Amazon product ASIN B074HZ8S21
They will. Maybe need to drill holes for the mounting bolts (not mandatory).
Dead it is. You have to buy new discs, brake calibers are seized = buy new ones, maybe bearings/seals are burnt too = buy a full knuckle rebuild kit.
There is a lot of decent brake options in Rockauto: 1977 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.2L L6 Brake & Wheel Hub Parts | RockAuto - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1977,land+cruiser,4.2l+l6,1276376,brake+&+wheel+hub
You also need a 24, 27, 30. last time I checked pinions nuts are 27-30, coarse spline and fine spline. Do not buy the Tekton flare wrenches. Find a tool truck and get a snap-on. others will flex and strip the head off. You only need the 10mm one.
If you find yourself trying to break a flare nut connection, this works everytime. Cheap flare nut tool. Piggy-back it with a vice grip.
Turn both flare nut wrench and vice grip together, never striped a nut yet. My replacement lines, from Cruiser Corps, used 11mm, Toyota used 10.
Those cheap powerbuilt wrenches are ones that I bought twenty years ago to fix brake cylinders that should have just been replaced, back when I used to have beer for dinner, and ice cream for breakfast.
Make a shopping list.
Continue disassembling.
Spray all the connectors you can find with PB Blaster or like. PB Blaster is better than WD-40 but not as good as Kroil. Kroil is harder to find and expensive.
Start working on pulling rear drums, a 5 pound sledge hammer is good here, might take a couple days.
Are SA 40 brakes the same as NA 40s? Look for a part number on your calipers.
Decide if you want to fix your rear drums or put disc brakes on the rear.
Is the brake booster good? Is it the same as a petrol 40?
Rebuild or replace brake master cylinder as stock or will an 80 series master work?
Lots of research.
Delete the #3 Philips screwdriver from the list. Since you are assembling a new tool kit buy the correct tools to begin with. Do a google on JIS vs. Philips and the diagrams of screw heads should be convincing.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Short version of the phillips vs JIS thing to end this: Phillips was literally designed to cam out by a FoMoCo engineer named Phillips. JIS was designed to hold and is a Japanese Industrial Standard. Buy the right tool for the right job. JIS paired with a small amount of impact is magic.
You want a 1/2 drive torque wrench if you get one. It'll cover more in the long term.
Snap ring pliers - you want something like this, avoid regular snap ring pliers...they'll be a huge headache for you for your needs. *edit - grind off the little bit that sticks out to make the paddle wider. It gets in the way more often than it helps.
You don't list any sockets. Get them in 6pt (avoid 12pt, they'll just strip out your old fasteners and you're not tearing into engines anytime soon to need them for heads or rods). Get a 3/8 set that includes 10/11/12/14/17/19. Buy 2 more 10mm. Get 3" and 6" extensions as well.
You only need one drift. Get a brass one 6"-12" long. You're also gonna need a hammer to hit it with. Get a medium ball peen. Avoid claw hammers. You're learning and claws hurt you and sheetmetal you didn't mean to hit.
You'll be able to tear that truck apart with the list you have and these additions.
You want a 1/2 drive torque wrench if you get one. It'll cover more in the long term.
Snap ring pliers - you want something like this, avoid regular snap ring pliers...they'll be a huge headache for you for your needs. *edit - grind off the little bit that sticks out to make the paddle wider. It gets in the way more often than it helps.
You don't list any sockets. Get them in 6pt (avoid 12pt, they'll just strip out your old fasteners and you're not tearing into engines anytime soon to need them for heads or rods). Get a 3/8 set that includes 10/11/12/14/17/19. Buy 2 more 10mm. Get 3" and 6" extensions as well.
You only need one drift. Get a brass one 6"-12" long. You're also gonna need a hammer to hit it with. Get a medium ball peen. Avoid claw hammers. You're learning and claws hurt you and sheetmetal you didn't mean to hit.
You'll be able to tear that truck apart with the list you have and these additions.
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Don't bother with anything bigger than a 21 yet. You won't need it.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Those larger sizes will come in a 1/2 drive set that you can buy later when needed. Also, get familiar with the common metric/SAE overlaps. Don't be afraid of garage sales for tools. You'll get way better tools at far better prices. Damn kids selling grandpa's tools for pennies... at least youll be able put em to good use.
I've found that some pawn shops also don't know what they are selling. Finding the most disorganized ones helps a lot.
