Flaming 40 (1 Viewer)

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Good to see that no one told him to go buy a sparkplug socket.
Though, it would be funny
 
That reminds me... @Pura Vida, don't run that thing out of fuel unless you have a helper and some spare time on your hands.
 
Kind of noob question but how exactly do I get the rear drums open? Do I just hit it? Unscrew something?
 
Kind of noob question but how exactly do I get the rear drums open? Do I just hit it? Unscrew something?

Back off the shoes, and then you will probably need to beat the drums like they owe you money. They have a tendency to build ridges or rust and you need to get the drum past it. It can be a major PITA.
 
The front slid right off. Where am I trying to get to? I’m just trying to diagnose for now, not replace until I get the part

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That is what you are trying to get to. Try and pop a bit of the boot off on those cylinders off to see if they are leaking. It seems like those brakes weren't used or not adjusted properly. How does the lower pad look? Is there any wear?
 
Go buy a lotto ticket. That's usually a biatch of a job on trucks that have sat. Considering how easy it seems to have come apart, I'd wager those haven't seen many miles. Is there a lip on the inside of the drum?
 
Not sure how to diagnose a drum but this is what I see from the side, middle and other side angles

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The cylinders look dry, what I can see of the shoes looks good.
Here's something to do with the drum off, learn how to adjust your drum brakes. Easier with the drum off and you can see what you're doing.
Did anyone mention the brake adjusting tool?
Or Anti-seize?
 
Other side was slightly harder to get off but it eventually slid off like the other one. Looks about the same to me as the other side. Lucky

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Not sure how to diagnose a drum but this is what I see from the side, middle and other side angles

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Peel back the boots on those cylinders and see if they are leaking. Those pads look to be in good shape. I've seen enough cylinders that look good until you look under the boot. IIRC, turning the adjusters to the axle will tighten the drums, and away will loosen them. May be the opposite. It could be a good time to turn your drums if they have a lip. If you do pull the pads, I can recommend anti-seizing all the contact patches on the backing plate, the pad slots on the cylinders, and the threaded portion of the cylinders.
 
Peel back the boots on those cylinders and see if they are leaking. Those pads look to be in good shape. I've seen enough cylinders that look good until you look under the boot. IIRC, turning the adjusters to the axle will tighten the drums, and away will loosen them. May be the opposite. It could be a good time to turn your drums if they have a lip. If you do pull the pads, I can recommend anti-seizing all the contact patches on the backing plate, the pad slots on the cylinders, and the threaded portion of the cylinders.
This is just what I can see. They look nice and clean and good but I don’t know drum brakes.

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See those serrated wheel-type things? Those are adjusters. You'll need to turn those later on, from the other side of the backing plate. Can you turn them now?
 
See those serrated wheel-type things? Those are adjusters. You'll need to turn those later on, from the other side of the backing plate. Can you turn them now?
Yes. Which way?
 
I can recommend anti-seizing all the contact patches on the backing plate, the pad slots on the cylinders, and the threaded portion of the cylinders.
I like using anti-seize on the outside of the adjusters as well, where the adjuster sits in the cylinder
 

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