Flaming 40 (2 Viewers)

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looks like a great rig! Hard to belive that you don't own more tools, with the 45 in your driveway already. Read here alot. Almost every question has already been answered. This in an unbelievable wealth of information. Welcome
Yea well I’ve been lucky that the 45 has been trouble free so far. Not so lucky with the 40. I couldn’t get it to start without starter fluid when I first got it, took it to a nearby mechanic to diagnose, replaced a few hoses there and told me I was good to go. 10 minutes after I left the mechanic, the engine blew up. Rebuild. That took forever because the guy who did the job got pneumonia halfway through the job and couldn’t work on it anymore because he was in the hospital. Finally got the car out of jail, then boom. Car catches fire.
 
So, lemme see if I got this right. You bought a non-running, has not been driven in a long time, BJ40, from SA, got it to a shop for an engine rebuild, bring it home, still not running, with flaming brakes and you're no mechanic.
But it's ok because you got 'Mud.
Am I right so far?
 
So, lemme see if I got this right. You bought a non-running, has not been driven in a long time, BJ40, from SA, got it to a shop for an engine rebuild, bring it home, still not running, with flaming brakes and you're no mechanic.
But it's ok because you got 'Mud.
Am I right so far?
It was running when I bought it, Mechanic there in Costa Rica said it was mechanically sound. Brought it up here, noob me couldn’t figure out how to use the choke/kill switch and stuff, took it to a mechanic to get it looked over, they said it was mechanically sound except raidator and hoses. Got those replaced then I then drove it home, then it exploded. It was not as mechanically sound as mechanics said it was
 
Ah, I stand corrected.
So, it should run again once all that stuff in the back is put back on the engine.
So all you gotta do is fix flaming brakes. And deferred preventive maintenance.
 
Ah, I stand corrected.
So, it should run again once all that stuff in the back is put back on the engine.
So all you gotta do is fix flaming brakes. And deferred preventive maintenance.
Yup. I’m already in the diesel section, and I know a diesel tech nearby than can help me with some stuff. Found a YouTube video documenting how to do knuckle rebuild (I’ll also have the manual, but have the video as a visual tool) and check out whatever I need to do.

Engine has no oil or coolant in it right now. I’ll probably flush other fluids too
 
He is a young Jedi but has seen a lot for his age.
I think a good torque wrench would be a good investment. Especially since you will be diving into the front axle.
And snap-ring pliers
 
Front right spins easy but has a metallic dragging sound. Front left spins, but it’s hard to spin, and it smokes a little when I spin it….probably still hot from when it was on fire earlier. We used a fire extinguisher on it. I don’t think the hubs have much play in them, if any at all

What does that mean? What do I need to do or order?
Calipers are seized from rust/inactivity. Probably will need to buy new calipers and rotors.
 
Calipers are seized from rust/inactivity. Probably will need to buy new calipers and rotors.
Yes, that caused the heat. The flames came from the 90wt, which shouldn't be there, hence the knuckle job.
 
So, lemme see if I got this right. You bought a non-running, has not been driven in a long time, BJ40, from SA, got it to a shop for an engine rebuild, bring it home, still not running, with flaming brakes and you're no mechanic.
But it's ok because you got 'Mud.
Am I right so far?
Seems legit.
 
Don't use too much glow-plug-in-a-can and create an ether bunny.

I'd do a complete brake job, and possibly swap masters. Is your brake pedal adjusted well? Could just be that the calipers are locked up. How is your rear drum adjustment?

I'd get 54MM socket and alligator pliers. Makes knuckle jobs so much easier.
 
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Also, welcome to the land of investing in tools. Terrible problem to have. Since you are just starting, I can recommend Tekton Tools' stuff, pretty good quality for a good price, plus a pretty good rewards program. You will also probably want a good breaker bar or an ugga dugga gun. The bearing cap nuts can be a biatch.
 
a front axle job is just messy and takes time, but it's not difficult if you go about it methodically - buy the kit from Kurt @cruiseroutfit Cruiser Outfitters - http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com

and if the front brakes are disk brakes, get new calipers and rotors

and then get a second person to help you bleed the brakes - nothing beats the two-person method

I suggest to hook up with your local North Carolina cruiser club for help and advice
 
What is a sign of a bad bearing? Can I know if it’s good or bad before I open up the knuckle? I need to know what kit to get in order to plan ahead
 
What is a sign of a bad bearing? Can I know if it’s good or bad before I open up the knuckle? I need to know what kit to get in order to plan ahead
Plan on it being replaced. Also learn how to take apart the birfield and clean and repack that while it is out. This includes taking the star and bearings out. Order a new inner snap ring for the inner axle, they usually break when taking apart. I bill out 8 hours for this job and I have done tons of them. Get the full bearing and race kit and all seals and gaskets. Call and talk to one of the vendors here. They will make sure you get everything you need the first time.

Good luck, everything you need to know is on the forum.
 
What is a sign of a bad bearing? Can I know if it’s good or bad before I open up the knuckle? I need to know what kit to get in order to plan ahead
You do not know when it was last replaced. Assume it is bad.
 

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