Both ways. One way will back the shoes away from the drums, usefull for putting the drums on. The other way will move the shoes toward the drum, for adjusting them to make you stop.
Flaming 40 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Pura Vida
- Start date
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If you're going to keep the drums (no reason not to right now, as it appears) and you had time to kill, you might take the shoes off and pull the adjusters (not the cylinder pistons) apart and coat lightly all aspects with the Anti-sieze. You'll thank us later.
Later on, when you're getting ready to drive, you will adjust the shoes out, to make it easier for the shoes to contact the drums without too much pedal pumping. Practice adjusting that serrated wheel from behind your brakes, from the axle side. Choose a flat blade screwdriver or the brake adjusting tool to move that adjuster around. Note which way the handle moves to move the shoes out, towards where the drum will be. The manual tells you which way, i forget. The way the handle of the tool moves to tighten is the same on all adjusters
I think towards the axle tightens.
FJBen
SILVER Star
The deal is if it looks questionable, just replace it. Especially brake and steering. The parts really arent that expensive at all. Call up cruiser outfitters, brakes steering and be done.
Utah. Kurt is a great guy.
After you complete the knuckle job, you'll understand why you want to get the entire kit. Going back in for a bearing within a few years would be too soon lol
24 for the drain and fill plugs on axles, drain plug on trans and t-case
27-30 for pinion nut if you need to replace pinion seal
I forgot that they used 24 on those, I usually see 17-19, but you are 100% correct there.
Brass drift. My favorite tool from NAPA. No one mentioned MAPP gas to help with those stubborn bolts? I saw Kroil (magic juice). Ah, this is a great read so far. Keep up the good work, you got this.
desmocruiser
SILVER Star
That looks like a wheel center cap, I had to cut one off a 1st gen 4Runner recently, I would not put them back on.
Just to catch up, the engine was rebuilt, but not restarted or the accessories reinstalled, now the brake caliper seized and you are starting a knuckle rebuild?
desmocruiser
SILVER Star
Speaking from experience (my first car was a 56’ Chevy at 14 that was never a complete car after my disassembly) I would take on and resolve 1 issue at a time and start with getting the engine bay together and the truck running.
Or has this already been recommended and I skipped over it?
Or has this already been recommended and I skipped over it?
Pura Vida
What an absolute noob
- Thread starter
- #119
Ye they said it’s better to stop than to start, so start with brakes and knuckles. Good advice. I have all the engine parts in the back of the truck, I just need to figure out how it all bolts up. That’s second after knuckles, brakes and tie rods depending on how they look
The thought process, as i recall it, was two-fold
1) there was a fire. So brakes were suspect. And because While Your in There.
B) we don't know diddley about diesels and told him to take that problem elsewhere.
