FJ80 vs FZJ80 (3 Viewers)

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I have seen, and personally, busted the hell out of 80 axles so what's your point? They aren't exactly super strong when you go 37s or

I have seen, and personally, busted the hell out of 80 axles so what's your point? They aren't exactly super strong when you go 37s or 40s
The 3F-E does not have enough balls to break axles, and I am fine with that. lol
V8 IFS 37s...not so much. It is all about how you want to balancing your rig.
 
Buy whatever you like. Toyota will be phasing out more parts in the coming years. We'll be seeing more engine swaps over the next decade. We'll talk about Toyota V8s, but then we'll relent and do what's abundant and proven: GM V8s. Or we'll get ambitious and do electric conversions.

'93+ with ABS has the full floating rear axle and bigger brakes, but even the later brakes are pretty lousy compared to modern stuff.

I say buy whatever you like, then do a V8 swap when the engine blows or you get sick of the slow freeway merges, and upgrade the brakes significantly (e.g. Brembo 17z caliper 350mm rotors on my land cruiser axle - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/brembo-17z-caliper-350mm-rotors-on-my-land-cruiser-axle.1273751/).

In short, the debate is irrelevant. The future of 80s will be highly customized.
 
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This has some awesome points, and I’ve commented on similar threads recently against FJ80’s for many of these reasons. Considering going against my own advice, however, and buying an FJ80.

My LX450 is about to go up for sale. And my ‘94 that I was going to do an engine swap in just lost its HG and had a TON of stuff done to the engine and is running like a top. Like so good I don’t want to yank it out in the next 100k miles.

So now I find myself with my eye on 2 FJ80’s. One is a two tone grey and red and body looks to be in really decent shape except for one front corner. Not sure how bad it is yet. The second is a dark blue one that looks to be in amazing shape except a bit of clear coat fading on the roof. Both are non running. So now I’m in a conundrum. 😂. But the NOA parts like heater core and such factor in, even with an engine swap.
 
I would only get the 80 series if you plan to be traversing many miles of rough terrain for a long period. They were really designed to trundle along well under 60 mph on poor global roads.

I found out the hard way that getting them up to mechanical snuff is a painstaking and expensive process. GX470s and 4Runners have much less of a nostalgia tax, so they’re probably better value.
 
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3FE POWAA

Early 3FE 80's are great if you have a high tolerance for "slow". I have a high tolerance for "slow". I love my 3FE. It's a rugged old tractor.

With a 3FE 80 you have to temper your expectations about things like "how fast will I be able to accelerate" right down to the point of "I'm thankful I can accelerate at all in this situation", "I understand that in this situation I will not be able to accelerate, and that's okay" and "3FE you're doing great for what you are".

You are not calling the shots, the 3FE is. And it's doing its best. When you consider that it's a 4.0L, 12 valve, low compression, pushrod inline six based on architecture that predates the Second World War, trying to motivate a 5000+lb brick down the highway through a massive automatic transmission and fulltime 4x4 system, with arguably insufficient gearing? It's actually doing pretty good.

I drove a 1FZ powered 80 that was setup like mine, and it felt fine. Slow compared to modern vehicles but good for what it was. The 3FE is noticeably slow.

Re-gearing (I'd go straight to 4.88's even with 31's) and ditching the slushbox help tremendously. Now with a 5 speed and bone stock 3FE, my driving experience is unaffected by any sensation of lacking power. It moves great.

You also get the benefit of manual cloth seats, slider climate control, semi-float with drums (excellent handbrake compared to disc which chronically don't work at all) and the simpler appearance.

Get a 1FZ, and keep the 3FE's cheap for those of us that like them ;). Whatever you do though, buy one that's been well maintained. Mine was, and in the 3 years I've owned it I've put 25k trouble free miles on it, and it's been the most reliable vehicle I own. 275k miles, still factory compression, still little to no oil consumption.
 
3FE POWAA

Early 3FE 80's are great if you have a high tolerance for "slow". I have a high tolerance for "slow". I love my 3FE. It's a rugged old tractor.

With a 3FE 80 you have to temper your expectations about things like "how fast will I be able to accelerate" right down to the point of "I'm thankful I can accelerate at all in this situation", "I understand that in this situation I will not be able to accelerate, and that's okay" and "3FE you're doing great for what you are".

You are not calling the shots, the 3FE is. And it's doing its best. When you consider that it's a 4.0L, 12 valve, low compression, pushrod inline six based on architecture that predates the Second World War, trying to motivate a 5000+lb brick down the highway through a massive automatic transmission and fulltime 4x4 system, with arguably insufficient gearing? It's actually doing pretty good.

I drove a 1FZ powered 80 that was setup like mine, and it felt fine. Slow compared to modern vehicles but good for what it was. The 3FE is noticeably slow.

Re-gearing (I'd go straight to 4.88's even with 31's) and ditching the slushbox help tremendously. Now with a 5 speed and bone stock 3FE, my driving experience is unaffected by any sensation of lacking power. It moves great.

You also get the benefit of manual cloth seats, slider climate control, semi-float with drums (excellent handbrake compared to disc which chronically don't work at all) and the simpler appearance.

Get a 1FZ, and keep the 3FE's cheap for those of us that like them ;). Whatever you do though, buy one that's been well maintained. Mine was, and in the 3 years I've owned it I've put 25k trouble free miles on it, and it's been the most reliable vehicle I own. 275k miles, still factory compression, still little to no oil consumption.
The only 80s with push buttons For the climate control where the collectors editions and the Lexus LX 450.

The full float rear axle With disc brakes is far superior and my parking brake works Excellent after replacing the shoes with factory parts.

Just sayin 😉
 
Dear ih8mud Forum,

First time/Newbie buying a Toyota Land Cruiser. I've always wanted to have one and deciding between a Model 80 vs. Model 100. I am checking out a 1992 Land Cruiser with 240K miles. It's advertised with a FJ80 engine. In my research, most people say go with the FZJ80 engine since it has more horsepower and slightly better gas mileage. Is this true?
Also the Series 80s seem to be the most sought after models, i.e., their prices are appreciating faster compared to the Model 100s. Any advice here is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
That is true. 212 hp vs. 155. Maybe a couple MPG better, not a lot but every little bit helps when you're starting with abysmal. Have you ever driven any model of Land Cruiser? The 100 series has a better highway ride and has the bigger engine, so probably a better choice for LA freeway driving. With regards to value, either way I'm not sure you should approach such a purchase as an investment. But yeah, most likely the FZJ80 is the better choice with this in mind, provided you don't go nuts modifying it.

You want a wagon? I suggest you bypass these relatively modern Cruisers and consider an FJ55. :flipoff2:
 
The most important difference that is never discussed: How can you even sleep at night knowing these wheels came on your truck.

jesuschristhorrifying.jpg


An absolute atrocity.

(Marco this post was a jest made in good faith)
 
The most important difference that is never discussed: How can you even sleep at night knowing these wheels came on your truck.

View attachment 3114920

An absolute atrocity.

(Marco this post was a jest made in good faith)

My favourite Toyota wheels ever made. And, actually, the reason I was going to skip the big brake upgrade (didn’t want to lose them). Luckily I found a set in 16x6 from an early model LJ78 Prado.

Absolute perfection 😍
 
The most important difference that is never discussed: How can you even sleep at night knowing these wheels came on your truck.

View attachment 3114920

An absolute atrocity.

(Marco this post was a jest made in good faith)
Always hated those wheels even before I became a Land Cruiser guy 🤣
 
Same. I like them a lot. I still get excited about that thread awhile back that had these wheels in 16”.
 
‘91-‘92 have smaller front disc brakes, no ABS, semi-float rear axle with drum brakes, and 15” wheels.

Some say the ‘93/‘94 are the best year, OBD1, best engine, best tranny... etc....

93 and up has a good following for aftermarket stuff or OEM.

Edit
‘93 was available with lockers.

Also keep in mind that the 93 and 94 model years had the slightly shorter birfields which makes them easier to find Aisin hubs for if you choose to convert to part time 4x4. And they also have the better looking front grill without the space cowboy emblem.

93-‘97 have larger front disc brakes, full float rear axle with discs, ABS, and 16” wheels. '93 & '94 were available without the ABS option, in which case the rear axle will be semi-floating. This is why you should exercise caution when you see Craigslist posts that say, "has the center diff lock option!" If it came from the factory that way, it means it's *missing* the ABS option.

‘95- ‘97 have airbags, full float rear diff, OBD-II, and you can still get engine wire harnesses and o2 sensors.

95+ has a mass air flow sensor, not a MAF meter, so you don’t have to worry about the MAF meter failing.

3FE parts are starting to become scarce. Most of the heater hoses on the 3FE are discontinued 😞 The 3FEhad such a limited run, there is really no aftermarket support for anything.

The 3FE is slow, dead reliable, super simple, easy to work on, and relatively impervious to neglect. It is pushrod in-block cam, direct drive (no timing belt or chains). Bullet proof. Non-electronic A440F transmission, no ABS system, no airbags, no PHH and fewer head gasket issues as it has an iron block and iron head.

The 3FE also has a lower torque apex than the 1FZ. Put 33’s on and you’ll hit third gear before you hit 20 mph, lots of low end control off road!

They are slow on the highway, slower on steep highway grades, and happiest cruising in the mid 60 MPHs, which was the speed limit for which they were designed back then.

It's reasonable to expect deferred and ongoing preventative maintenance. Somewhere on this forum is an excellent 3FE tune-up checklist--this is must-do for the 3FE.
Great response! But i would like to add the cast iron block and head heat and cool at the same expansion rate, fzj is alum and iron = dissimilar metals. Every time i turn my fzj on and off my ahole puckers, because i know that im much closer to blowing my HG. For the 3fe carry an extra 20’ of vacuum hose and it will take you to south America and back. Just not that fast and your wallet will be a lot lighter.

Bring MAF cleaner on the road for both thou. On the fj for opening up the throttle body vacuum intake ports and fzj for cleaning the MAF sensor.

For the 3fe, upgrade the drive flange to the fzj, go into low, put on air lockers, a winch, carry boards, keep your tires smallish (i know im gonna get s*** for this one) and ur fine

I once heard that the 10 best toyota engineers worked on the land cruiser, so it was able to operate in Third World countries with minimal maintenance and with the small OEM tires it would lose traction before It broke something in the drive line.

One last thing, if u want to pass smog on a 3fe take off the negative battery cable 1 mile before the shop and reset the time on the clock. Dont ask me how i know…..gotta love the paperclip!!! No computer port to connect to.
 
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Gx470 is awesome except for the skinny people seats. Hurts me to sit in or drive my wife’s truck. I plan on sitting in the back seat if we have to drive it for any length of time.
 
The most important difference that is never discussed: How can you even sleep at night knowing these wheels came on your truck.

View attachment 3114920

An absolute atrocity.

(Marco this post was a jest made in good faith)
lol....no comments on the wheels. That is an 80s thing.
But opinions are like a-holes right? You got one and so does everybody else....
 
The most important difference that is never discussed: How can you even sleep at night knowing these wheels came on your truck.

View attachment 3114920

An absolute atrocity.

(Marco this post was a jest made in good faith)

My 91 came w/ 93+ wheels from PO and in retrospect, it is truly a blessing in disguise that it wasn't a 1FZ-FE. lol

20180131_210400.png
 
Pretty sure all the pros and cons have been addressed here, if the OP is even paying attention still.

My personal vote goes to 95-97 fzj80 because it has enough power to keep up with traffic and get by OK in the mountains, still has OEM parts available that are no longer available in earlier models (although its only a matter of time before stock runs out on these parts too). It is the last and best (IMO) of the 80 series in terms of mechanicals (brakes, electronics, simplicity of adding forced induction). I wouldn't get a fj80 if any type of towing is in your future, or if you plan to overbuild the rig and add 1500lbs of gear like some here do.

But the differences are minimal and some might even call them negligible. Some prefer no airbags for some reason, many prefer cloth interior, which is hard to find in a 1995+.

Whatever floats your boat.
 
I wouldn’t even consider a 91-92 3FE
but like @Heckraiser said whatever floats you boat.

For the record my came with the infamous blow head gasket and the first thing I did was have it fixed with all the While you’re in there stuff
It’s been impeccably reliable over the last seven years and I never worry about it.

Cheers
 

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