FJ80 Subwoofer and Amplifier Mounting

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I'd love to buy one of these but the $50 shipping quote on the ebay listing seems kind of crazy? Is there an order form on the whole hog site that I'm missing?

Thanks!
 
Why not just cut a bigger hole in the factory bracket to fit your woofer needs and save a few bucks. Sorry but i dont see any benefit to this aftermarket braket.
 
I removed the factory bracket and cut it into a couple of pieces then mounted it to a piece of MDF then mounted the subwoofer speaker to the MDF then was able to put the whole thing back into the factory mounts. I needed to add one bracket near the floor to hold the MDF steady but used the top three mounting points from the factory bracket. I dont have pics with me else would post them. I think there are other examples of people doing this though - combination of mdf and factory bracket pieces


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I removed the factory bracket and cut it into a couple of pieces then mounted it to a piece of MDF then mounted the subwoofer speaker to the MDF then was able to put the whole thing back into the factory mounts. I needed to add one bracket near the floor to hold the MDF steady but used the top three mounting points from the factory bracket. I dont have pics with me else would post them. I think there are other examples of people doing this though - combination of mdf and factory bracket pieces


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If you don't have an LX, I would go this route. I purchased the WH bracket and felt I needed to stiffen areas of it using plywood. If you're going to go to that trouble, might as well work with what you have.
 
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@NLXTACY

I know you installed the WHT sub mount. How did you get over the rattling? Have a set of ARB drawers coming for my 80 and want a subwoofer solution.
 
@NLXTACY

I know you installed the WHT sub mount. How did you get over the rattling? Have a set of ARB drawers coming for my 80 and want a subwoofer solution.

I put a large piece of DynoMat on the back of it. Then I removed it completely because I am redesigning the entire and making it a complete quarter panel mount instead of that one section.
 
I put a large piece of DynoMat on the back of it. Then I removed it completely because I am redesigning the entire and making it a complete quarter panel mount instead of that one section.

I knew you had a something better. gonna hold out until you come up with something. Thanks
 
To stop the rattle on mine I just shoved a piece of 3/4 inch plywood down behind the sub-woofer between it and the quarter panel. Didn't even bolt it in, just wedged it tightly. Worked then and still works a couple of years later....NO RATTLE!
 
After the amplifier was squared away, then it was time to mount the sub woofer. Again Whole Hog has a technical reference page to identify available speakers for this mounting location at wholehogtech dot com. We used a Pioneer TS-SW841D shallow mount speaker here. You have 3-1/2 inches behind the mounting plate to work with.

Technical reference for sub woofer model information at www.wholehogtech.com

The Whole Hog mounting plate allows speakers with six (6) or eight (8) mounting bolt patterns at several different orientations. If the speaker fits in the mounting depth requirements and is of the 8 inch sub woofer variety, odds are that it will bolt right up.

After mounting the sub woofer to the plate, we attached the appropriate electrical connections. Prior to attaching power to the amplifier, make sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal on the vehicle to prevent shorts.

During our installation, we ran audio cables down the passenger door sills and the positive power cable along the driver door sills to prevent potential interference problems. There are several good grounding points at the passenger rear corner of the vehicle (make sure you don't try to use one of the isolated bolts for the factory rear bumper though...)
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It does look like a well thought out solution.
Well thought out if you disregard the fact that no thought was put into actual sound reproduction..i hope that woofer has an almost unbudging suspension,a big amplifier! A subsonic filter at about 150hz! Lol..and some ear plugs so you can't hear the voice coil hitting the backplate,other than that it's well thought out if your goal was to very innefectively mount a woofer with a factory appearance..10 out of 10 on factory appeal 0 out of 10 for attempting an infinitely non existent baffle design.
 
Well thought out if you disregard the fact that no thought was put into actual sound reproduction..i hope that woofer has an almost unbudging suspension,a big amplifier! A subsonic filter at about 150hz! Lol..and some ear plugs so you can't hear the voice coil hitting the backplate,other than that it's well thought out if your goal was to very innefectively mount a woofer with a factory appearance..10 out of 10 on factory appeal 0 out of 10 for attempting an infinitely non existent baffle design.
Whew my job would be infinitely less stressful if this sort of design was ever an option
 
Whew my job would be infinitely less stressful if this sort of design was ever an option
To be fair.from my experience there is a market for this type of audio solution.wether it be lack of knowledge or O.C.D regardless.there is a lot of you! May I suggest a ring extending from the baffle maybe 1" with holes in the side then slide the seat back against that baffle,that will help load the front of the woofer with the holes on the side relieving pressure ;)
 

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