FJ62 Fuel pump bracket/carrier repair DIY (1 Viewer)

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I would vote yes, for that same reason. A near new OEM quality part would be a great solution, especially with non-used parts being NLA. I say this considering my window relay refurbs and several of the parts Matt offers.


dan brings up a good point and so does @3puppies ............


- the fact remains in my view point here :

- i find gluing , mending , or installing anything Gerry rigged as a last resort ?

hell its gas and fire safety topic !


- i know enough already about EFI pump mounting flanges from studding the fuel sender topics in reproducing the 1967-1980 FJ55 Disc. / NLA one fro a non usa toyota car of of all matches , i reshape the part , but ZERO safety is sacrificed in the mating and sealing surface


this would be my approach here as well ,


100% safety first is MY only way ........ :)
 
Is ignoring my multiple emails requesting a return "boutique level service"?

Pm me. Please here on mud

Right now ….

My Shopify server has been down …

Better yet I will PM u right now

This is professional service
 
Is ignoring my multiple emails requesting a return "boutique level service"?

I just pm you my shop hot line

Please feel free to reach out right now

Let’s chat

Matt
 
Posting this here in hopes of helping someone else.

The two hard lines coming from my fuel pump carrier had rusted out resulting in leaking fuel everywhere. The only replacement I could find was a used one from cruiserparts for $425, so I decided to take a shot at repairing mine.

Materials:
48" of 5/16" fuel injector line (from any parts store, just make sure it's specifically fuel injector line)
Fuel resistant RTV
5/16" brass fittings (These fitting are key, the area is very tight and needs something low profile.)
6x 1/2" Hose clamps
1/2" drill bit
Flaring tool
7x M5x.8 stainless screws

I didn't take as many photos as I should have but here's the steps:

  1. Remove the fuel pump from the carrier
  2. break or cut off the hard lines from the top
  3. Drill open the hard lines
    1. save the internal section of the return line
  4. Put the rtv around the hole from the top and set the washer on it.
  5. Apply rtv to the top of the washer
  6. Install and tighten the brass fitting
  7. Repeat for the other line (I went overboard with the rtv)
View attachment 2765995
  1. Now take the return line you saved and cut it so that it will mate to the new fitting and still be the same height as before
  2. Put a small flare at the end of the line
  3. Use a small piece of hose to clamp the line to the barb
View attachment 2765992

  1. Install the assembly back in the tank using the stainless hardware
View attachment 2765997

  1. Now find the hard lines that come off the frame rail, one is already beaded for a soft line.
    1. For the other line, mine was pretty far gone so I cut it right after the fitting and made a small flare at the end
View attachment 2766001

Done!

View attachment 2766002


In retrospect I could have used a rubber O ring, or some kind of seal other than the RTV, but the metal was fairly pitted and uneven, and for this application, it's not holding any liquid or pressure, just fumes, so it should be sufficient. If you're concerned about using rtv, look for fuel resistant O rings
Well, you ended up helping me a bunch! I've got all of the parts gathered (except for the brass fittings, which will be here tomorrow). Had to drop my tank to do the Trail Tailor c-channels properly. Discovered that my hard fuel hard lines on top of the tank are toast. I'm not sure how they weren't leaking. So, while the tank is off, it seemed like a good time to sort things out.

Just wanted to say thank you for posting this up.

Take'er easy.
 
It looks like mine are toast, too. If Matt had a replacement I would go that route but it looks like I’ll be doing the copper-nickel replacement fix instead.

I also want to know why that bracket isn’t attached…

3F0C0E62-2B90-4A6A-B5CF-A22E72D19B81.jpeg
 

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