Posting this here in hopes of helping someone else.
The two hard lines coming from my fuel pump carrier had rusted out resulting in leaking fuel everywhere. The only replacement I could find was a used one from cruiserparts for $425, so I decided to take a shot at repairing mine.
Materials:
48" of 5/16" fuel injector line (from any parts store, just make sure it's specifically fuel injector line)
Fuel resistant RTV
5/16" brass fittings (These fitting are key, the area is very tight and needs something low profile.)
6x 1/2" Hose clamps
1/2" drill bit
Flaring tool
7x M5x.8 stainless screws
I didn't take as many photos as I should have but here's the steps:
Done!
In retrospect I could have used a rubber O ring, or some kind of seal other than the RTV, but the metal was fairly pitted and uneven, and for this application, it's not holding any liquid or pressure, just fumes, so it should be sufficient. If you're concerned about using rtv, look for fuel resistant O rings
The two hard lines coming from my fuel pump carrier had rusted out resulting in leaking fuel everywhere. The only replacement I could find was a used one from cruiserparts for $425, so I decided to take a shot at repairing mine.
Materials:
48" of 5/16" fuel injector line (from any parts store, just make sure it's specifically fuel injector line)
Fuel resistant RTV
5/16" brass fittings (These fitting are key, the area is very tight and needs something low profile.)
6x 1/2" Hose clamps
1/2" drill bit
Flaring tool
7x M5x.8 stainless screws
I didn't take as many photos as I should have but here's the steps:
- Remove the fuel pump from the carrier
- break or cut off the hard lines from the top
- Drill open the hard lines
- save the internal section of the return line
- Put the rtv around the hole from the top and set the washer on it.
- Apply rtv to the top of the washer
- Install and tighten the brass fitting
- Repeat for the other line (I went overboard with the rtv)
- Now take the return line you saved and cut it so that it will mate to the new fitting and still be the same height as before
- Put a small flare at the end of the line
- Use a small piece of hose to clamp the line to the barb
- Install the assembly back in the tank using the stainless hardware
- Now find the hard lines that come off the frame rail, one is already beaded for a soft line.
- For the other line, mine was pretty far gone so I cut it right after the fitting and made a small flare at the end
Done!
In retrospect I could have used a rubber O ring, or some kind of seal other than the RTV, but the metal was fairly pitted and uneven, and for this application, it's not holding any liquid or pressure, just fumes, so it should be sufficient. If you're concerned about using rtv, look for fuel resistant O rings