FJ62 Fuel pump bracket/carrier repair DIY (2 Viewers)

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Feb 17, 2020
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Newbury, NH
Posting this here in hopes of helping someone else.

The two hard lines coming from my fuel pump carrier had rusted out resulting in leaking fuel everywhere. The only replacement I could find was a used one from cruiserparts for $425, so I decided to take a shot at repairing mine.

Materials:
48" of 5/16" fuel injector line (from any parts store, just make sure it's specifically fuel injector line)
Fuel resistant RTV
5/16" brass fittings (These fitting are key, the area is very tight and needs something low profile.)
6x 1/2" Hose clamps
1/2" drill bit
Flaring tool
7x M5x.8 stainless screws

I didn't take as many photos as I should have but here's the steps:

  1. Remove the fuel pump from the carrier
  2. break or cut off the hard lines from the top
  3. Drill open the hard lines
    1. save the internal section of the return line
  4. Put the rtv around the hole from the top and set the washer on it.
  5. Apply rtv to the top of the washer
  6. Install and tighten the brass fitting
  7. Repeat for the other line (I went overboard with the rtv)
1629596334125.png

  1. Now take the return line you saved and cut it so that it will mate to the new fitting and still be the same height as before
  2. Put a small flare at the end of the line
  3. Use a small piece of hose to clamp the line to the barb
1629596294041.png


  1. Install the assembly back in the tank using the stainless hardware
1629596449086.png


  1. Now find the hard lines that come off the frame rail, one is already beaded for a soft line.
    1. For the other line, mine was pretty far gone so I cut it right after the fitting and made a small flare at the end
1629596829831.png


Done!

1629596892418.png



In retrospect I could have used a rubber O ring, or some kind of seal other than the RTV, but the metal was fairly pitted and uneven, and for this application, it's not holding any liquid or pressure, just fumes, so it should be sufficient. If you're concerned about using rtv, look for fuel resistant O rings
 
Hey, I just went through the same thing! Those fittings are pretty slick. I ended up taking a slightly different approach. I used oxy-acetlyne to remove the old brazed in lines. One of them wouldn't completely un-braze, so I had to drill it out. I then bent up some new copper-nickle lines and silver-soldered them into the plate. I suppose regular soldering would work too, but silver-solder is much stronger and holds up better to vibration.

I also did the flaring trick on the other end of the lines. If you get a standard double-flare tool from the parts store and only use the die (normally you use the die first, and then send the cone in to complete the double flare), it will make a perfect hose-barb bubble as long as you don't fully compress the die.

20210708_143659.jpg
 
Hey, I just went through the same thing! Those fittings are pretty slick. I ended up taking a slightly different approach. I used oxy-acetlyne to remove the old brazed in lines. One of them wouldn't completely un-braze, so I had to drill it out. I then bent up some new copper-nickle lines and silver-soldered them into the plate. I suppose regular soldering would work too, but silver-solder is much stronger and holds up better to vibration.

I also did the flaring trick on the other end of the lines. If you get a standard double-flare tool from the parts store and only use the die (normally you use the die first, and then send the cone in to complete the double flare), it will make a perfect hose-barb bubble as long as you don't fully compress the die.
That's a way more professional approach, it came out great! if this fails I'll give that route a shot!

I definitely agree about the flare tool, I lost my die for tubing this size so I just flared it a little bit.
 
Can go this route all new components can use barb fittings instead of the an fittings this was usedin an ls swap so new ptfe braided fuel lines replaced the oem fuel lines. I make and sell thr adapter plate that adapts the fuel pump module to the fj62 fuel tank.
Tommy

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Screenshot_20200910-162314.png
 
Can go this route all new components can use barb fittings instead of the an fittings this was usedin an ls swap so new ptfe braided fuel lines replaced the oem fuel lines. I make and sell thr adapter plate that adapts the fuel pump module to the fj62 fuel tank.
Tommy

View attachment 2766358

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Do you happen to make a setup for use in the long range tanks sold by Valley Hybrids/Cruiser Bros (the actual brand of tank slips my mind).
 
Do you happen to make a setup for use in the long range tanks sold by Valley Hybrids/Cruiser Bros (the actual brand of tank slips my mind).
This is the tank that is pictured. They are designed to with with the same flange and extended tubes. You need to either extend your fj62/60 factory pickup tubes or use the module he screenshot with his flange adapter.
 
This is the tank that is pictured. They are designed to with with the same flange and extended tubes. You need to either extend your fj62/60 factory pickup tubes or use the module he screenshot with his flange adapter.
Ah nice. Wasn't sure if that was a long range tank or some other tank modified for use in a 62.
 
Ah nice. Wasn't sure if that was a long range tank or some other tank modified for use in a 62.
No the pictures are mine the fuel tank is a long range tank from Australia using the fuel pump module adapter for that tank and there is another for the fj62 fuel tank .
 
No the pictures are mine the fuel tank is a long range tank from Australia using the fuel pump module adapter for that tank and there is another for the fj62 fuel tank .
Very nice. It's getting to the point where I'm looking at moving a long range tank up the list of priorities, and obviously a new pump assembly and sender will be part of that.

Edited to correct Autocorrect
 
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i have seen this issue now more then a few times , so i gotta ask ?

is there enough need here for a Alternative Toyota genuine parts solution 🤔


if so , ill need good reference donor top start the hunt

or

maybe a stand alone tech thread like i approached the FJ62 Fusible links


feedback and input is what i need here please
 
i have seen this issue now more then a few times , so i gotta ask ?

is there enough need here for a Alternative Toyota genuine parts solution 🤔


if so , ill need good reference donor top start the hunt

or

maybe a stand alone tech thread like i approached the FJ62 Fusible links


feedback and input is what i need here please
Do you sling parts?
 
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i have seen this issue now more then a few times , so i gotta ask ?

is there enough need here for a Alternative Toyota genuine parts solution 🤔


if so , ill need good reference donor top start the hunt

or

maybe a stand alone tech thread like i approached the FJ62 Fusible links


feedback and input is what i need here please


I vote no as it decreases the value of good used parts, although no one has wanted to pay for them tho.

just not sure how many would be sold????
 
I vote no as it decreases the value of good used parts, although no one has wanted to pay for them tho.

just not sure how many would be sold????


well ?

that's 1 response

thanks paul ........
 
I vote no as it decreases the value of good used parts, although no one has wanted to pay for them tho.

just not sure how many would be sold????
I would vote yes, for that same reason. A near new OEM quality part would be a great solution, especially with non-used parts being NLA. I say this considering my window relay refurbs and several of the parts Matt offers.
 

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