FJ60 Starting Issue (1 Viewer)

[Spike Strip]

A bad battery won't limp along for months... You may have a few no starts, then it's dead.

Here's my take:

OP said he's getting solenoid clicking, no crank, intermittently, which indicates starter is not getting appropriate voltage, or starter/solenoid is going bad. If the issue were with the coil/igniter one would experience solid cranking but no start.

Voltage to the starter goes through Ignition switch.

Starter and switch are both items that wear out. Take your pick.

 

[mwebfj60]

If you have a remote starter switch like the one listed, you can bypass the ignition switch and at least isolate whether it’s the starter or switch. It just applies 12v to the solenoid connection (the little brownish orange connector on the starter). It doesn’t take much current to trigger the solenoid..just a relay.

Performance Tool Heavy-Duty Remote Starter Switches W80586

 

[morganism]

The reason the coil ground affects start, is that all these Toyotas are Ground switched. Which means the entire body and block supply the voltage, not the wires going to them (starter and alt are sorta the exceptions).

So usual suspects are grounds, not shorts of switchable systems.

The reason the coil ground causes probs, is that it, the starter, and the blower motor and resistor in the heater circuit, are the largest amp draws on the system. If any of them build up extra resistance, it pulls amps from the other circuits, and causes parasitic draws, and will fry other sketchy, or small gauge ground failures. Like the bundles behind the gauge cluster.

Too much, for too long will cause the Pos side fails, like the Alt main wire, fusible links, or the rotor and pickup fails that cost big money, and major part hunts.

Sure, check your batt cables, and starter cable, but those are the most lubed, and removed/repositioned cables on your truck.

Find all your grounds, and always check them first. Add when you can, like the ignitor box, but don't add spurious, they can cause ground loops, which will reduce elect efficaincy.

 

[Godwin]

The reason the coil ground affects start, is that all these Toyotas are Ground switched. Which means the entire body and block supply the voltage, not the wires going to them (starter and alt are sorta the exceptions).

Thought only the headlights were ground switched for hi/lo.

 

[Godwin]

The reason the coil ground affects start, is that all these Toyotas are Ground switched. Which means the entire body and block supply the voltage, not the wires going to them (starter and alt are sorta the exceptions)..

Is there any documentation in Toyota literature to support this? I ask because I am still learning how electrical systems work.

 

[Mace]

I still cannot fathom how a coil ground would make a cruiser not turn over..

 

[Cruzerman]

The reason the coil ground affects start, is that all these Toyotas are Ground switched. Which means the entire body and block supply the voltage, not the wires going to them (starter and alt are sorta the exceptions).

So usual suspects are grounds, not shorts of switchable systems.

The reason the coil ground causes probs, is that it, the starter, and the blower motor and resistor in the heater circuit, are the largest amp draws on the system. If any of them build up extra resistance, it pulls amps from the other circuits, and causes parasitic draws, and will fry other sketchy, or small gauge ground failures. Like the bundles behind the gauge cluster.

Too much, for too long will cause the Pos side fails, like the Alt main wire, fusible links, or the rotor and pickup fails that cost big money, and major part hunts.

Sure, check your batt cables, and starter cable, but those are the most lubed, and removed/repositioned cables on your truck.

Find all your grounds, and always check them first. Add when you can, like the ignitor box, but don't add spurious, they can cause ground loops, which will reduce elect efficaincy.

While this is all good, it has nothing to do with the OPs problem.

 

[jonheld]

How does a ground at the coil keep the starter from turning the engine over?

It is irrelevant.
His default answer for anything electrical is to ground the igniter. I'm sure he means well, but he has no electronic knowledge whatsoever.

 

[jonheld]

The reason the coil ground affects start, is that all these Toyotas are Ground switched. Which means the entire body and block supply the voltage, not the wires going to them (starter and alt are sorta the exceptions).

So usual suspects are grounds, not shorts of switchable systems.

The reason the coil ground causes probs, is that it, the starter, and the blower motor and resistor in the heater circuit, are the largest amp draws on the system. If any of them build up extra resistance, it pulls amps from the other circuits, and causes parasitic draws, and will fry other sketchy, or small gauge ground failures. Like the bundles behind the gauge cluster.

Too much, for too long will cause the Pos side fails, like the Alt main wire, fusible links, or the rotor and pickup fails that cost big money, and major part hunts.

Sure, check your batt cables, and starter cable, but those are the most lubed, and removed/repositioned cables on your truck.

Find all your grounds, and always check them first. Add when you can, like the ignitor box, but don't add spurious, they can cause ground loops, which will reduce elect efficaincy.

Your replies, both on this forum and on the 80 Series forum reach ridiculous conclusions based of half-truths. Your statements do contain SOME facts, but you spew mostly bull****.
But please, by all means, continue. I find it very entertaining.

 

[Spike Strip]

This isn't Pirate (or the 80 section ), let's try and keep things civil.

I disagree with the Coil/Igniter being the issue, in this case, but he's right that a solid ground for it (in 60s) is necessary for the engine to fire. I've seen it happen myself when someone paints the fender well and doesn't realize the coil bracket is no longer grounded and the truck won't start.

 

[jonheld]

This isn't Pirate (or the 80 section ), let's try and keep things civil.

I disagree with the Coil/Igniter being the issue, in this case, but he's right that a solid ground for it (in 60s) is necessary for the engine to fire. I've seen it happen myself when someone paints the fender well and doesn't realize the coil bracket is no longer grounded and the truck won't start.

No one is saying that a good coil ground is not important. It obviously is.
What I'm saying is that his conclusions are illogical, his posts are full of half-truths, and he repeats the same thing over and over again, regardless of the actual issue.
This is tech, not Facebook.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes, gotcha, but all I'm saying is the way you're calling him out on it is like Jim Acosta at a White House Press Briefing...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It is irrelevant.
His default answer for anything electrical is to ground the igniter. I'm sure he means well, but he has no electronic knowledge whatsoever.

I’m bowing. Thank you.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yes, gotcha, but all I'm saying is the way you're calling him out on it is like Jim Acosta at a White House Press Briefing...

No seriously it’s been necessary. Many of us are thrilled @jonheld spoke up here in the 60 section where we literally never see him. It’s damn nice to know that guy is spewing his bs elsewhere too. You all know I’m no where near as skilled as most of you and I was well aware his words have been repetive and thrown people into tailspin’s of confusion.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yes, gotcha, but all I'm saying is the way you're calling him out on it is like Jim Acosta at a White House Press Briefing...

And who’s this sticking in his finger pointing who also called this writer a “not sexy greasy nailed stay at home mom who collects welfare”? (Of which I don’t.) @jonheld has all my respect for being honest. I’m damn glad someone has finally put their foot down.

 

[Spike Strip]

You drew first blood, princess, insulting me in a public forum without knowing the slightest bit of what was going on after I had spent many many hours patiently helping you through PMs and emails, so ... ... And you know that's not what was said. I never ever would have disparaged moms or welfare recipients, such as yourself ( I KID!!!! I'M KIDDING! I BE JOSHIN'! ).

And moreover, I very quickly deleted it after realizing I was out of line, and have long since dissolved your insult: A quality you don't seem to have. You must be a Scorpio.

As the Forum turns...

@OSS

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Laughing. @Zeus0623 apologies for the hijack.
I was privy to that thanks to a few as you know Alf. You did help me and I appreciate that as I’ve expressed on my thread.
I also helped many here including yourself w/ that gem I’d found. It was unfortunate to see an equal attempt to make such a huge profit on it elsewhere when the distributor wasn't seeking any extra profit from any of us.

 

[Mace]

Let's all just deal with the OPs question please

 

[Zeus0623]

I am just catching up on this, looks like some good conversation? Ha! Anyone know if there is a rebuilt kit for the starter? Or should I just buy a new one? I think that is my next move.

@NeverGiveUpYota @jonheld Who am I to believe? Ha!

 

[Spike Strip]

Cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=ABMW0JSDZD43KTV8XC7T

Also available from Toyota for money that does not make it worthwhile vs buying a rebuild.

There are also NEW starters avail that get good reviews.

FAQ Here are the Toyota part #s for a starter rebuild.