FJ60 rear main seal (1 Viewer)

[TroutFJ]

Ok so after completely destroying my rear main seal trying to get it in are there any tricks to this!? I used a pipe the same diameter as the seal and it just wasn't going in!! The outer diameter of the seal just seems about 2 mil too big. Here are some pics. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this, believe it or not, is the biggest hangup so far on the tranny replacement.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Should just push in by hand. I've never had to use anything else.

J

 

[Output Shaft]

Remove the oil pan. Its gasket is probably leaking everywhere too. Once the oil pan is removed, the rear main seal slides in easily by just using your fingers. No way to damage it.
Removing the oil pan & replacing its gasket is a chore though.

 

[TroutFJ]

Everywhere I've read says the same thing, just slide it on. But that just wasn't happening!! Oil pan gasket was just replaced by PO along with a new oil pan so that's looking good. Would the oil pan be preventing it from sliding on for some reason? I can't see how it would but what do I know, I can't get the damn thing on!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Sure you bought the right seal?

Have to ask...

J

 

[TroutFJ]

Could be the wrong one. Came with a clutch kit from cool cruisers. I hear they are pretty reputable but mistakes happen I suppose. I can't compare to the olde one cause it came it in about a million pieces. Spent two hours with a dental pick pulling out bits of rubber from the outer ring.

 

[Output Shaft]

When the oil pan is removed, the rear bearing cap can be removed & then the RMS slips right in without tools or any chance of damage. That's how I did mine.

@Poser has some good info on THIS thread.

 

[TroutFJ]

Got it. Thanks output! Guesss I'm dropping the oil pan now too. Damn, was hoping I'd finally be able to start putting stuff back on and not making the hole bigger and bigger. Oh well. So it goes

 

[aaron9252]

Got it. Thanks output! Guesss I'm dropping the oil pan now too. Damn, was hoping I'd finally be able to start putting stuff back on and not making the hole bigger and bigger. Oh well. So it goes

I would do a quick diameter measurement of the seal and call a shop to ask them to do the same to ensure you've got the correct one. As others have said, it should snugly fit in. If you have a pvc pipe, just light taps with a rubber mallet will get the job done. No way it should been damaged like you show.

 

[TroutFJ]

Thanks for the advice everyone! It's probably a longshot but do Toyota dealers typically carry the RMS or should I just count on ordering one online?

 

[60Works]

Check the part number and get your next seal from Toyota, Kurt, Georg, or Beno.

At great peril, I'm going to disagree with Output Shaft (first time ever). The seal should press in without dropping the pan and unbolting the bearing cap. Though my rear main still leaks a bit after doing it the quick way. No way to know for sure if it would be dry if I'd pulled the pan.

Please let us know how it turns out.

 

[TroutFJ]

The thing is it wasn't leaking to begin with. Just everything I read said do it while you're in there.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Yeah, you gotta drop the rear main cap for it to be easy. which is pretty easy, just a few more bolts to undo...don't forget fipg on the rear main cap corners and thread sealer on the flywheel bolts. and don't skip the pilot bearing! while you're in there, might as well do the TO bearing and trans input seals. Splitting the engine and trans is a pain, and shouldn't be done more than needed. HTH

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

oh, and one piece pan gasket, because we don't hate ourselves, right?

 

[TroutFJ]

Thanks Lamb. I'm putting in a new H55f tranny and already got the new pilot bearing and TO installed so should be good there. Unfortunately no Toyota dealer in the state carries the RMS or the pan gasket so have to wait till Tuesday to get those in.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I have always got mine thru NAPA. I know I know, flame on, but 3 main seals on 3 engines later, and they're still solid...H55 is COOOOL, don't need to rnr seal on that! I have always used @Poser s instructive for the side galley/pan/rear main replacement. Oil pan/ side cover gasket stuff....(FAQ)

 

[TroutFJ]

I tried Napa and all the other auto parts stores to no avail. Which is interesting cause 60's are all over in Colorado. Oh well, guess I'm gonna get to work on splitting the t-case and getting er on the new tranny. That is a great thread, I was checking it out last night and will help a ton for this noob! Frankly I'm stoked that this has been my only hang up so far since my skills on cars are rudimentary at best! Having a ton of fun learning though!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Thanks Lamb. I'm putting in a new H55f tranny and already got the new pilot bearing and TO installed so should be good there. Unfortunately no Toyota dealer in the state carries the RMS or the pan gasket so have to wait till Tuesday to get those in.

Pan gasket? Oil? I have two and unless I screw mine up this spring, I only need one. Lmk.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

check out this thread > some h55f and split case tech

 

[Output Shaft]

If you drop the rear bearing cap, know that the lower bearing is just setting in the cap with nothing retaining it— except the oil tension clinging to the bearing.
Also take careful note of it's orientation when removing it.

When I removed my rear bearing cap, I wasn't sure what to expect. The bearing stayed stuck to the journal when I pulled the cap & before I realized what I was looking at, it fell to the ground when the oil film lost its hold.

Although nothing happened to my bearing, I didn't like it falling down on to the ground like that. Something to be aware of if it doesn't come off with the cap (pull it off).

When replacing the bearing, keep oil off of the non bearing surface, but oil the bearing surface w motor oil.