g-man
SILVER Star
I recently repaired an inoperable rear push button lock at the rear hatch of my FJ60. The reason it was not working was because the snap ring at the back was working loose from the lock housing (toyota calls this the "cylinder"). The snap ring holds the rear linkage in place, the rear linkage being the part with the plate that is held in place by the snap ring and the link above it that swivels and that the push button shaft engages with. The spring was not returning the push button and pushing the button didn't move the lever enough to pull the link and release the latch.
This is for FJ60 only and NOT necessarily for FJ62. Looking at the back of the push button lock you can see a snap ring hold the linkage plate to the cylinder. under the plate is the push button return spring and the push button shaft protrudes thru the center hole in the linkage plate and pushes the linkage. If you study this pic below you can see that the snap ring holes needs to be located in this orientation. (circled in red) /the solid piece protruding up from the plate will not allow the ring to be oriented unless it is in the space between the snap ring holes.
If you put the cylinder through the hatch and secure it with the retainer (per FSM instructions) and try to install the snap ring the image in the FSM (shown below) shows the snap ring oriented to 9 oclock position. (edit: it is worth noting here that the entire cylinder with the lever attached can nearly be inserted into the hole in the rear hatch in one piece. Notice I say nearly. You chance bending the sheet metal and it is NOT how the FSM says to assemble) FSM assembly calls for inserting the cylinder through the hole and then using the snap ring attaching the linkage and rear plate.
There is a piece of sheet metal in the back of the hatch in between the service ports (notice to right of snap ring tool in FSM image below) that prevents a snap ring tool and your hand from centering the snap ring at the 12 oclock position like the image above. If you put the snap ring in at 9 oclock or any other position other than shown above then the small area circled in red has metal that will keep the snap ring from sitting in the groove on that wide leg to the right of the red circle.
I opted to take a cutting blade on an angle grinder and cut a small groove in the piece marked in blue in the last pic below, so the snap ring could fit into the wide leg and STILL be oriented to 9 oclock.
there is no E ring on my lock or the one pictured that I recently bought. So this may be for a different model. But the FSM referenced removing and E ring with a screwdriver.
One other thing worth mentioning if you have to wrestle with this...make sure the lever that contacts the push button shaft is flipped so that it will touch the push button shaft BEFORE you attach the snap ring if you are doing this install from inside your hatch. There is NOT enough clearance to flip it over if it's in the up position once installed. Also its a good idea to have another set of hands. The other person holding the flashlight. You will have your hands busy...one holding the plate and spring in place while the other works the snap ring tool.
This is for FJ60 only and NOT necessarily for FJ62. Looking at the back of the push button lock you can see a snap ring hold the linkage plate to the cylinder. under the plate is the push button return spring and the push button shaft protrudes thru the center hole in the linkage plate and pushes the linkage. If you study this pic below you can see that the snap ring holes needs to be located in this orientation. (circled in red) /the solid piece protruding up from the plate will not allow the ring to be oriented unless it is in the space between the snap ring holes.
If you put the cylinder through the hatch and secure it with the retainer (per FSM instructions) and try to install the snap ring the image in the FSM (shown below) shows the snap ring oriented to 9 oclock position. (edit: it is worth noting here that the entire cylinder with the lever attached can nearly be inserted into the hole in the rear hatch in one piece. Notice I say nearly. You chance bending the sheet metal and it is NOT how the FSM says to assemble) FSM assembly calls for inserting the cylinder through the hole and then using the snap ring attaching the linkage and rear plate.
There is a piece of sheet metal in the back of the hatch in between the service ports (notice to right of snap ring tool in FSM image below) that prevents a snap ring tool and your hand from centering the snap ring at the 12 oclock position like the image above. If you put the snap ring in at 9 oclock or any other position other than shown above then the small area circled in red has metal that will keep the snap ring from sitting in the groove on that wide leg to the right of the red circle.
I opted to take a cutting blade on an angle grinder and cut a small groove in the piece marked in blue in the last pic below, so the snap ring could fit into the wide leg and STILL be oriented to 9 oclock.
there is no E ring on my lock or the one pictured that I recently bought. So this may be for a different model. But the FSM referenced removing and E ring with a screwdriver.
One other thing worth mentioning if you have to wrestle with this...make sure the lever that contacts the push button shaft is flipped so that it will touch the push button shaft BEFORE you attach the snap ring if you are doing this install from inside your hatch. There is NOT enough clearance to flip it over if it's in the up position once installed. Also its a good idea to have another set of hands. The other person holding the flashlight. You will have your hands busy...one holding the plate and spring in place while the other works the snap ring tool.
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