1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

FJ60 carb cooling fan

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by jasheehan, Aug 25, 2006.

  1. jasheehan

    jasheehan

    Messages:
    326
    Likes Received:
    56
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2006
    Location:
    Carlisle, PA
    I have a FJ60 that is a pain to hot start? I received a post saying that it is likely the carb cooling fan. I checked it out and the "ground" wire is burnt through. When I reattach this wire to a ground, the fan stays on and never shuts off. Can anyone help me out on how I go about fixing this? Do I need a whole new harness, or is there a quick fix?

    Also, does anyone know what the sensor is for that is located inside the catalytic converter? I took the CC off to check and see if it was blocked, and I saw this sensor? I'm thinking about removing the CC altogether since this vehicle doesn't go through emissions, but if I do this, what is the significance of the sensor?

    Thanks.

    Jeff
     
  2. 2mbb

    2mbb SILVER Star

    Messages:
    4,635
    Likes Received:
    100
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2003
    Location:
    WC, CA
    The carb fan wire shouldn't be connect to a ground but to a temperature switch that is then grounded. The switch is mounted on a piece of sheet metal near the exhaust pipe under the exhaust manifold.

    The thermosensor in the catalytic convertor is used to measure when the cat gets too hot. If the cat gets too hot, then the thermosensor opens the air bypass valve connected to the smog pump, diverting air away from the cat.
     
  3. mrsvle

    mrsvle

    Messages:
    183
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2006
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    This is the beast, this is where it lives.

    First picture: the carb cooling fan sensor
    Second picture: Where it lives (red circle) on bracket attached to EGR valve, positioned under the intake/exhaust manifold.

    The wire to the carb cooling fan sensor can often burn through. You simply need to reattach it. You may need to splice in some new primary wire. Also, you can clean the carb cooling fan sensor by blasting it with some WD-40 and working it around.
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2006
  4. AATLAS1X

    AATLAS1X

    Messages:
    7,263
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2006
    Location:
    97707
    How does it divert air away from the cat?
     
  5. AATLAS1X

    AATLAS1X

    Messages:
    7,263
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2006
    Location:
    97707
    How many miles? You may have a leaking injector and when this happens it soaks into the carbon and turn into a non flamable solvent and causes hard hot starts.

    Buy new at $300 a pop or have a local DR. Injector rebuild them all at $18 each. You will have the best running rig after.

    EDIT.

    LOL, never mind you have have a 60................I was thinking of a 62 that was a customer of mine....
     
  6. jasheehan

    jasheehan

    Messages:
    326
    Likes Received:
    56
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2006
    Location:
    Carlisle, PA
    Thanks so much for your help. I think I can fix this. I will need to get some more wire and splice it together. I did notice that there is a wire harness that comes out of the carb coolign fan, and then this wire that burnt off comes out of that harness and goes into a plastic sleeve or connector, and then it burnt off after that. What is this connector for?

    Again, thank you very much. I got this Cruiser over Christmas, so I'm just getting used to it.

    Jeff
     
  7. FJ60Cam

    FJ60Cam SILVER Star

    Messages:
    8,043
    Likes Received:
    7,140
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2004
    Location:
    Memphis, TN
    "When I reattach this wire to a ground, the fan stays on and never shuts off"


    The fan does have a built in timer. I grounded mine instead of reattaching to the sensor, and it shuts off after 20-30 minutes. It starts MUCH easier now.
     
  8. 2mbb

    2mbb SILVER Star

    Messages:
    4,635
    Likes Received:
    100
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2003
    Location:
    WC, CA
    Under normal operation, the air bypass valve is open and air from the smog pump is pumped into the exhaust manifold and/or exhaust pipe. The thermosensor is a temperature switch. When the thermosensor gets hot it goes from open circuit (high resistance) to closed circuit (low resistance). When the thermosensor closes, the emissions comptuer sends a signal to the air bypass valve to close. This diverts the air coming from the smog pump back into the air cleaner and stops the air flow into the exhaust.

    The chemical reaction that takes place in the catalytic converter uses oxygen (from air) to oxidize the bad emissions (HC, NO, CO) to less harmful ones (H2O, CO2, etc.) The oxidiation reaction releases heat. With out air, there is no reaction and therefore not heat is released and the cat cools off. The thermosensor essentially prevents the catalytic converter from burning up.
     
  9. nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon not an addict Moderator

    Messages:
    16,003
    Media:
    87
    Albums:
    4
    Likes Received:
    820
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2003
    Location:
    meh-ico, colorado
    i run mine off a toggle switch.
     
  10. brian

    brian SILVER Star

    Messages:
    8,253
    Likes Received:
    1,675
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2003
    Location:
    lebanon,pa
    so if i just ground the sending wire the fan will:
    1. run all the time whenever the key is on?
    2. run after the key is turned off, then shut off after the timer times out after 20-30 minutes?

    if that is the case i'll ground my sending wire.




    **edit**
    i grounded the sending wire about 20 minutes ago.
    1. it runs only after the key is turned off.
    2. it runs only about 15-20 minutes.

    on a hot start, it fired right up, which is a huge change.:)
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2006
  11. Southbound

    Southbound

    Messages:
    622
    Likes Received:
    18
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2006
    Location:
    CA
    Just used the knowledge from this thread to reatttach the wire from the carb fan to the temp sensor. Sadly, nothing happens with the engine on or off, hot or cold. The carb fan works fine if I just ground it. Should I assume the sensor is shot? The sensor is a bit hard to get to but shouldn't be hard to replace.
     
  12. 60wag

    60wag SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,923
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2003
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    You might try leaving it connected and wait a week. Its got to be pretty hot for the sensor to switch on. My fan runs frequently. I know some whose fan hardly runs at all. Maybe its due to variation in the sensors or maybe my exhaust manifold runs pretty hotter than some.
     
  13. mrsvle

    mrsvle

    Messages:
    183
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2006
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    The sensor is spring loaded and can get all crudded up. Remove the sensor, hit it with some WD-40 and/or Lime-Away, work it in and out to get rid of the grit that can get trapped inside. Then replace. It should work fine.

    HTH

    Matt
     
  14. notagp_afj55

    notagp_afj55

    Messages:
    867
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2004
    Location:
    Portland Oregon
    My fan runs after every time i drive it for about 15-20 regardless of the
    outside temp. of course it's summer and so i don expect it to run when
    the temps get dow in the 30's and 40's. The last post i posted some
    said if it runs usually after every drive then it is doing its job


    -Jim
     
  15. Southbound

    Southbound

    Messages:
    622
    Likes Received:
    18
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2006
    Location:
    CA
    Good ideas on trying to save the current sensor. That's the good thing about old school mechanical devices (vs. computers) - often times a little cleaning or bending will set things right. I'll give it a shot.
     
  16. Cruzerman

    Cruzerman

    Messages:
    1,806
    Likes Received:
    249
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2005
    Location:
    Oregon
    Like it's been said, if you can't get the sensor to work you can just ground the wire. Only downside is that it will run the fan every time you turn off the motor, not just when it's hot. No harm done.
     
  17. soggy60

    soggy60

    Messages:
    844
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2004
    1. The sensor is a therm-responding resistor, you can't get inside to clean.

    2. Remove wire from harness carefully, there's a plug....

    3. Remove sensor; clean threads
    Unscrew & re-screw one of the bolts above sensor on bracket

    4. You can 'test sensor'- need ohm meter (or friend with one)
    'cold' (room temp) resistance many thousand ohm
    very hot (boiling water - tease with lighter) few thousand ohm, maybe less.

    ( the cleaning, bolt turning...step 3,,,is to reduce unwanted resistance)

    HTH

    Pete
     
  18. Southbound

    Southbound

    Messages:
    622
    Likes Received:
    18
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2006
    Location:
    CA
    Well, I took out the sensor, tested it, reinstalled it and now it's working like a charm. Amazing how often that happens. It probably wasn't connecting properly with the sheet metal to conduct electricity and just taking it out and cleaning it did the job.

    Thanks!
     
  19. Southbound

    Southbound

    Messages:
    622
    Likes Received:
    18
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2006
    Location:
    CA
    Sweet, now I know what the fender vents are for - they are the intakes for the carb fan. Very cool.
     
  20. vanyoska

    vanyoska

    Messages:
    26
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2007
    82 - 83 FJ60 Carb Cooling Fan (do they have them?)

    I'm looking at an '82 and '83 FJ60 and may buy one of them.
    The person with the 83 said there's not supposed to be a fan that runs after the motor shuts off. The one with the 82 said it runs on a hot day. Is this how they are both supposed to run. If not, what is wrong? Thanks
    I don't want to make a mistake and buy a bad LC as I can't fix it myself and have limited resources. I'd welcome anywone with any advice about this situation and the specs on the cars (as I'd hate to brake down on a 2500 mile trip).
    Thanks
    Vanyoska
    ratmoppett@verizon.net
     
data-matched-content-rows-num="2,1" data-matched-content-columns-num="1,4" data-matched-content-ui-type="image_stacked" data-ad-format="autorelaxed">