What's going on with the build?
I may have some things that could help...pm me.
-Nathaniel
I may have some things that could help...pm me.
-Nathaniel
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Currently stopped. Though I have been driving it. I actually have it for sale currently. Though I'm regretting it more and more.
I've decided not to sell. I have felt uncomfortable about posting anything about it since it was for sale. Sorry if it looked like I was pimping my stuff, it was not my intention.
Tech to start flowing again. Thanks for all y'alls help.
Got the tcase out and trhe new in yesterday.
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Old peice of crap and the new
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COuple of questions. Fuel gromet for the vapor lines. I noticed later models did away with this and went to a device that gives with tubes in it to seperate the inside to the outside better. Anyone know if the later style will work? Or should I just get a piece of rubber and make a new one?
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Small update. Finally took some pics of the Rust Bullets I sprayed on the front fenderwells. That stuff is great. Sprays well covers well and is hard as a rock. Just adds thickness and hides all the imperfections in the metal. A little dusty from being in the garage. Has a nice gloss to it.
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You can see how thick it can get. I'm still trying to figure out how it did this.
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Marshall; am looking at having to replace the rear oil seal on the 74; did you remove the tranny along with the TC?; if you did; did you replace the rear oil seal???; TIA;
Lou
Marshall; how did you solve this problem?...mine is toast
TIA..........again; great thread
Lou
am a fan of rust bullets also; what sprayer did you use?..size tip?; how much and what did you thin with?......opened a pint; used about 25% of it on coating my floorboards.... sealed can with double layer of saran wrap came back 10 days later for a touch up and that stuff is like sludgedon't think it can be used again
TIA X3
Lou
In order to replace the T-case to tranny seal you only need to remove the T-case. No motor mounts need to be removed or special twister moves to get it out. Unbolt and slide off. I love 55's with all the room under there.
Yes did replace the seal.
Primer gun. 1.7 tip HVLP gun. Opened it all the way up. Found if you narrowed the tip you can get that stuff in any place.
Lou I found that my garage bench floor mat made a good replacement. Just cut it fit and punched out the holes. Worked well.
No. Hind sight I should have dropped the whole thing engine and all. It probably took as much time to drop the t-case as it would have to just yanl the whole drivetrain. That way I could have fixed some of the other things.Marshall, did you replace the rear motor seal same time? TIA
Lou
Marshall, Noticed in your pix that your rust bullets got very thick also; were you able to thin down again?... did you use thinner when spraying? TIA again
Lou
Like that Idea.........any pix you can share?.. BTW great thread
Lou
No. Hind sight I should have dropped the whole thing engine and all. It probably took as much time to drop the t-case as it would have to just yanl the whole drivetrain. That way I could have fixed some of the other things.
Was thinking the same!
Cannot thin Rust Bullets. I turned the pressure way up and sprayed straight out of the can.
Did you use a siphon type gun then taking it directly from the can?; what did you clean it with? and how long did your rust bullets last after you opened it?... mine was unusable after a few days even trying my best to seal it with 2 layers of saran wrap and that stuff is a bit pricey to lose about 60%
I'll try to take some this weekend.
Little progress as I have been working on rebuilding the 2f in my 40 and buying an 80 series.
Today I did manage to go to the body supply place and get most of the materials to get the cruiser covered in epoxy primer and dents filled.
Guy said I was crazy to try to sand the whole cruiser down and said they have had issues in the past with people who use soda blasting to get it down to metal. Said the easiest is to strip it with aircraft stripper.
So the plan is to strip the entire inside and out. Hose it out. Sand any other areas with 80 grit. Lay in Rust bullets in the area that has areas prone to rust inside doors, interior roof areas, inside front and rear quarters. They also have a aresol system with a long wand to get into the rockers and seal them up. (didn't buy that today) Then lay on the epoxy primer. Fill the dents (gallon of filler) and smooth everything out using 180 grit. Bought 2 tubes of seam sealer for the body.
I bought everything above today to get me this far. Said I have up to 7 days to lay on the next coat or I will need to sand with 180. Then a coat of high build primer sanded with 180. Got a tube of heavy drip rail sealer. Said just to lay it in and it will self level. Then start laying on paint. He said I should just paint it all one color then wait 2 months. And then sand down the area to be painted with 400 and paint the second color. Gonna use single stage urethane paint for both these layers.
I posted a while back about trying an idea to fix the front glove box pad, lower controls pad and gauge pad. Well I tried the idea on my glove box. Worked like a charm. Most of these pads are distorted but not in terrible bad shape. The problem is the foam on the back sides breaks down over time and causes the outerpad to start warping which if left to long will cause splits.
What I did was cut out all the foam that was damaged out with an exacto knife. Then braced the entire section back flat including the sides then poured in gorilla glue. Let it set and then sanded away the excess. Will post pics tomorrow. Took about 30 min. With about 4 hrs set time.