FJ55 My stock build for DD (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Currently stopped. Though I have been driving it. I actually have it for sale currently. Though I'm regretting it more and more.

I've decided not to sell. I have felt uncomfortable about posting anything about it since it was for sale. Sorry if it looked like I was pimping my stuff, it was not my intention.


Tech to start flowing again. Thanks for all y'alls help.
 
I've decided not to sell. I have felt uncomfortable about posting anything about it since it was for sale. Sorry if it looked like I was pimping my stuff, it was not my intention.


Tech to start flowing again. Thanks for all y'alls help.

Glad to hear it! This is clearly no the market to sell Pigs in (right there with you)

Your progress will inspire me...
 
Glad to hear. I was enjoying following its progress. I like your Youtube vid of it. Can you possibly do one of it driving?

Dave
 
rear oil seal change

Marshall; am looking at having to replace the rear oil seal on the 74; did you remove the tranny along with the TC?; if you did; did you replace the rear oil seal???; TIA;

Lou

Got the tcase out and trhe new in yesterday.

1247921-DSC00029.JPG


1247921-DSC00028.JPG


Old peice of crap and the new

1247921-DSC00030.JPG
 
fuel grommet

Marshall; how did you solve this problem?...mine is toast:frown:

TIA..........again; great thread:clap:

Lou

COuple of questions. Fuel gromet for the vapor lines. I noticed later models did away with this and went to a device that gives with tubes in it to seperate the inside to the outside better. Anyone know if the later style will work? Or should I just get a piece of rubber and make a new one?

1832134-DSC07130.JPG
 
spraying rust bullets

am a fan of rust bullets also; what sprayer did you use?..size tip?; how much and what did you thin with?......opened a pint; used about 25% of it on coating my floorboards.... sealed can with double layer of saran wrap came back 10 days later for a touch up and that stuff is like sludge:crybaby: don't think it can be used again :bang: TIA X3

Lou

Small update. Finally took some pics of the Rust Bullets I sprayed on the front fenderwells. That stuff is great. Sprays well covers well and is hard as a rock. Just adds thickness and hides all the imperfections in the metal. A little dusty from being in the garage. Has a nice gloss to it.

DSC08232.JPG


You can see how thick it can get. I'm still trying to figure out how it did this.

DSC08228.JPG

DSC08229.JPG
 
Marshall; am looking at having to replace the rear oil seal on the 74; did you remove the tranny along with the TC?; if you did; did you replace the rear oil seal???; TIA;

Lou

In order to replace the T-case to tranny seal you only need to remove the T-case. No motor mounts need to be removed or special twister moves to get it out. Unbolt and slide off. I love 55's with all the room under there.

Yes did replace the seal.
 
Marshall; how did you solve this problem?...mine is toast:frown:

TIA..........again; great thread:clap:

Lou

Lou I found that my garage bench floor mat made a good replacement. Just cut it fit and punched out the holes. Worked well.
 
am a fan of rust bullets also; what sprayer did you use?..size tip?; how much and what did you thin with?......opened a pint; used about 25% of it on coating my floorboards.... sealed can with double layer of saran wrap came back 10 days later for a touch up and that stuff is like sludge:crybaby: don't think it can be used again :bang: TIA X3

Lou



Primer gun. 1.7 tip HVLP gun. Opened it all the way up. Found if you narrowed the tip you can get that stuff in any place.
 
Marshall, did you replace the rear motor seal same time? TIA

Lou

In order to replace the T-case to tranny seal you only need to remove the T-case. No motor mounts need to be removed or special twister moves to get it out. Unbolt and slide off. I love 55's with all the room under there.

Yes did replace the seal.
 
rust bullets thinner

Marshall, Noticed in your pix that your rust bullets got very thick also; were you able to thin down again?... did you use thinner when spraying? TIA again:cheers:

Lou

Primer gun. 1.7 tip HVLP gun. Opened it all the way up. Found if you narrowed the tip you can get that stuff in any place.
 
fuel vent grommet replacement

Like that Idea.........any pix you can share?.. BTW great thread :beer::cheers:

Lou

Lou I found that my garage bench floor mat made a good replacement. Just cut it fit and punched out the holes. Worked well.
 
Marshall, did you replace the rear motor seal same time? TIA

Lou
No. Hind sight I should have dropped the whole thing engine and all. It probably took as much time to drop the t-case as it would have to just yanl the whole drivetrain. That way I could have fixed some of the other things.


Marshall, Noticed in your pix that your rust bullets got very thick also; were you able to thin down again?... did you use thinner when spraying? TIA again:cheers:

Lou

Cannot thin Rust Bullets. I turned the pressure way up and sprayed straight out of the can.

Like that Idea.........any pix you can share?.. BTW great thread :beer::cheers:

Lou

I'll try to take some this weekend.
 
No. Hind sight I should have dropped the whole thing engine and all. It probably took as much time to drop the t-case as it would have to just yanl the whole drivetrain. That way I could have fixed some of the other things.
Was thinking the same!


Cannot thin Rust Bullets. I turned the pressure way up and sprayed straight out of the can.

Did you use a siphon type gun then taking it directly from the can?; what did you clean it with? and how long did your rust bullets last after you opened it?... mine was unusable after a few days even trying my best to seal it with 2 layers of saran wrap and that stuff is a bit pricey to lose about 60%:frown:


I'll try to take some this weekend.

Marshal; look forward to seeing them......great thread has been an inspiration for my rebuild it deserves 5 stars:clap::beer::cheers:

Lou
 
paint stripping

Marshall, your fender paint job is looking very nice; the color combo realy grows on you....did you end up using aircraft stripper?....any source?, also my rust bulletswent "hard" on me even with a two layer coat of saran wrap as a sealer......about 1/2 was a loss; :hmm:have wondered about your technique of using a paint gun and spraying it .....have a 1.8 tip for primer but it looks awfully small to be blowing "Rustbullets" through it and that stuff won't come off:frown: .........any tips on cleaning your gun afterwards? TIA

Lou

Little progress as I have been working on rebuilding the 2f in my 40 and buying an 80 series.

Today I did manage to go to the body supply place and get most of the materials to get the cruiser covered in epoxy primer and dents filled.

Guy said I was crazy to try to sand the whole cruiser down and said they have had issues in the past with people who use soda blasting to get it down to metal. Said the easiest is to strip it with aircraft stripper.

So the plan is to strip the entire inside and out. Hose it out. Sand any other areas with 80 grit. Lay in Rust bullets in the area that has areas prone to rust inside doors, interior roof areas, inside front and rear quarters. They also have a aresol system with a long wand to get into the rockers and seal them up. (didn't buy that today) Then lay on the epoxy primer. Fill the dents (gallon of filler) and smooth everything out using 180 grit. Bought 2 tubes of seam sealer for the body.

I bought everything above today to get me this far. Said I have up to 7 days to lay on the next coat or I will need to sand with 180. Then a coat of high build primer sanded with 180. Got a tube of heavy drip rail sealer. Said just to lay it in and it will self level. Then start laying on paint. He said I should just paint it all one color then wait 2 months. And then sand down the area to be painted with 400 and paint the second color. Gonna use single stage urethane paint for both these layers.
 
Used mineral spirits to clean up. Ususally fill the cup a little after it is clean and blow some through.

Don't be scared on PSI's. I turned mine up until it came out.
 
I posted a while back about trying an idea to fix the front glove box pad, lower controls pad and gauge pad. Well I tried the idea on my glove box. Worked like a charm. Most of these pads are distorted but not in terrible bad shape. The problem is the foam on the back sides breaks down over time and causes the outerpad to start warping which if left to long will cause splits.

What I did was cut out all the foam that was damaged out with an exacto knife. Then braced the entire section back flat including the sides then poured in gorilla glue. Let it set and then sanded away the excess. Will post pics tomorrow. Took about 30 min. With about 4 hrs set time.

Did we ever get pics of the glovebox door repair?
 
You did but I changed cameras and the file structures were the same so they started overwriting my old pics. I'll see if they are still on my laptop and upload them.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom