1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
VERY COOL! I see that yours is a 75, will the same reproduction panels fit a 1970?, PM sent to you ATlas, let me know when these are going to be ready?
Noah
FJ55 My stock build for DD (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Trollhole
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VERY COOL! I see that yours is a 75, will the same reproduction panels fit a 1970?, PM sent to you ATlas, let me know when these are going to be ready?
Noah
- Thread starter
- #182
Noah I would think so. But I have been wrong before. Do you have any pics of yours we could compare them to.
Marshall, that's so cool that you were able to do that to help out all piggys! 
to you!
to you!
- Thread starter
- #184
Little progress as I have been working on rebuilding the 2f in my 40 and buying an 80 series.
Today I did manage to go to the body supply place and get most of the materials to get the cruiser covered in epoxy primer and dents filled.
Guy said I was crazy to try to sand the whole cruiser down and said they have had issues in the past with people who use soda blasting to get it down to metal. Said the easiest is to strip it with aircraft stripper.
So the plan is to strip the entire inside and out. Hose it out. Sand any other areas with 80 grit. Lay in Rust bullets in the area that has areas prone to rust inside doors, interior roof areas, inside front and rear quarters. They also have a aresol system with a long wand to get into the rockers and seal them up. (didn't buy that today) Then lay on the epoxy primer. Fill the dents (gallon of filler) and smooth everything out using 180 grit. Bought 2 tubes of seam sealer for the body.
I bought everything above today to get me this far. Said I have up to 7 days to lay on the next coat or I will need to sand with 180. Then a coat of high build primer sanded with 180. Got a tube of heavy drip rail sealer. Said just to lay it in and it will self level. Then start laying on paint. He said I should just paint it all one color then wait 2 months. And then sand down the area to be painted with 400 and paint the second color. Gonna use single stage urethane paint for both these layers.
Today I did manage to go to the body supply place and get most of the materials to get the cruiser covered in epoxy primer and dents filled.
Guy said I was crazy to try to sand the whole cruiser down and said they have had issues in the past with people who use soda blasting to get it down to metal. Said the easiest is to strip it with aircraft stripper.
So the plan is to strip the entire inside and out. Hose it out. Sand any other areas with 80 grit. Lay in Rust bullets in the area that has areas prone to rust inside doors, interior roof areas, inside front and rear quarters. They also have a aresol system with a long wand to get into the rockers and seal them up. (didn't buy that today) Then lay on the epoxy primer. Fill the dents (gallon of filler) and smooth everything out using 180 grit. Bought 2 tubes of seam sealer for the body.
I bought everything above today to get me this far. Said I have up to 7 days to lay on the next coat or I will need to sand with 180. Then a coat of high build primer sanded with 180. Got a tube of heavy drip rail sealer. Said just to lay it in and it will self level. Then start laying on paint. He said I should just paint it all one color then wait 2 months. And then sand down the area to be painted with 400 and paint the second color. Gonna use single stage urethane paint for both these layers.
Sporin
Site Addict
What "heavy drip rail sealer." did you buy? I need to wirebrush and reseal mine.
- Thread starter
- #186
3M Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer #08531
Sporin
Site Addict
thanks!
- Thread starter
- #188
Little progress this weekend. Had my HAMON (help a member of the month) this Sat. The one thing I can say about having one is they get you over the hurdles you were not willing to tackle and back into the swing of things.
Got the front bumper off.
took the front fenders apart and stripped them down using aircraft stripper. That stuff really works and was not as messy as I thought it would be. All you need is a coffe can, a brush, gloves and a scrapper and a tarp. Eats the crap out of paint two coats and we were down to metal.
Sprayed some rustbullets using a 1.4 tip on a hvlp gun. Turned out great. Great product. I have been afraid of spraying paint due to a messy cleanup but it was really easy. The epoxy primer should be just as easy.
Got the crap cut off the end of the exhaust ready to be welded.
Did someother stuff but it wasn't 55 related. I'll keep working on the 55 through the Big Gay 2F build. I'm ready to start cutting the rust and replacing some sheetmetal.
Got the front bumper off.
took the front fenders apart and stripped them down using aircraft stripper. That stuff really works and was not as messy as I thought it would be. All you need is a coffe can, a brush, gloves and a scrapper and a tarp. Eats the crap out of paint two coats and we were down to metal.
Sprayed some rustbullets using a 1.4 tip on a hvlp gun. Turned out great. Great product. I have been afraid of spraying paint due to a messy cleanup but it was really easy. The epoxy primer should be just as easy.
Got the crap cut off the end of the exhaust ready to be welded.
Did someother stuff but it wasn't 55 related. I'll keep working on the 55 through the Big Gay 2F build. I'm ready to start cutting the rust and replacing some sheetmetal.
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Nice work Marshall.
- Thread starter
- #190
Small update. Finally took some pics of the Rust Bullets I sprayed on the front fenderwells. That stuff is great. Sprays well covers well and is hard as a rock. Just adds thickness and hides all the imperfections in the metal. A little dusty from being in the garage. Has a nice gloss to it.
You can see how thick it can get. I'm still trying to figure out how it did this.
You can see how thick it can get. I'm still trying to figure out how it did this.
- Thread starter
- #192
Very little progress this past month due to trying to bild an engine for the 40 and run a club. But now things should be a little easier for me and I should be able to get this back on track. I have been collecting parts though. Now have a good set of chrome srip rail. In fact I have a couple of extra sets. lol (When it flows it flows well)
Also finally recieved all the tailgate weather stripping. It's some really good stuff. Very expensive but when your making it look original it's the only way.
I'm hoping to get some time to work on it. Stay tuned.
Also finally recieved all the tailgate weather stripping. It's some really good stuff. Very expensive but when your making it look original it's the only way.
I'm hoping to get some time to work on it. Stay tuned.
- Thread starter
- #193
Running out of things to fix. I have decided to make my own rear corners.
So I took out some posterboard and made a rough template. I then got some sheet metal and started cutting. What I thought would look like crap turned out to be pretty good. Used a dolly and hammer to finish the profile. I'll weld it up tomorrow and really smooth it out and then trim the bottom to match the original. This is 30 min of work. Air saws rock.
If I flattened it back out I could trace it and allmost anyone could cut it out and make it.
So I took out some posterboard and made a rough template. I then got some sheet metal and started cutting. What I thought would look like crap turned out to be pretty good. Used a dolly and hammer to finish the profile. I'll weld it up tomorrow and really smooth it out and then trim the bottom to match the original. This is 30 min of work. Air saws rock.
If I flattened it back out I could trace it and allmost anyone could cut it out and make it.
OregonCruzer
Póg mo Thóin
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
man, that is great work right there! Question, how did you know where to make the relief cuts? by this I mean if you are looking at the flat piece of sheet, did you just start at one end and make some cuts, bend, then cut bend / trim and so forth.
if possible please take me through how you performed this piece as I am interested....
Noah
if possible please take me through how you performed this piece as I am interested....
Noah
- Thread starter
- #196
Yes just made some cuts in the beginning with a couple on the mostly flat area about two inches apart and the ones in the center about 1/2 inch apart. Then just bent it. There was a lot of over lap. I just cut the overlap with the air saw. Then used a vice with a dolly in it make the profile. Then back to the air saw for more trimming. Did that about 4 times before I got it close.
Tonight I'll tack it all together with the mig. And see where I sit. If I had a shrinker I could have probably done this without cutting at all.
Once I get it welded up I'll finish pounding it to refine the profile. But it's close right now.
- Thread starter
- #198
Spent about 45 min tonight on it. Turned out really good. Now I just need to be able to do the exact same thing on the other side. Really wasn't as hard as I thought.
Beware of some gay 2f test paint.
My ghetto way of being able to hold it and take a pic
After Lou mentioned profile I remembered I had a profile gauge.
I only had a couple of spots on the rear that I could get one from but I'd say I was pretty close. Once I get the old rusted corner off it should fit perfect.
Beware of some gay 2f test paint.
My ghetto way of being able to hold it and take a pic
After Lou mentioned profile I remembered I had a profile gauge.
I only had a couple of spots on the rear that I could get one from but I'd say I was pretty close. Once I get the old rusted corner off it should fit perfect.
- Thread starter
- #199
Looks like it sags in the pic but thats just because I couldn't hold it tight up against the sheet metal
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
Thats pretty amazing Marshall!
