FJ to BJ mutation?

[patches84]

That's great Eric, After flying for the regionals for 6 years, I completely understand what you are talking about. When I move back to the US, I will have to get in contact with you to see if your mate needs any other pilots on the odd weekend. Only about 1500 hours of my total time is tailwheel hours, but I still think that was the pinacle of aviation technology...

I got my private and instrument in my old Stinson 108-3, and my commercial in a Swift GC1B. However, my favourite plane by-far was the Beech 18.

I could tell you were an A&P by the beauty of your wire on the power steering mount

Cheers,

Josh

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
Day 2 of the bumper/tire mount. The concept of how to securely latch the the swing tube securely to the bumper assembly, was making the inside if my head itch, it just wasn't coming to me. I know that others have used Staco clamps, but I wanted to go my own way. The X/Y axis was covered with the hitch pin and bung in the bumper. The Z axis was making me crazy, I was drawing a blank, then I decided to do the same as the X/Y axis, I used a pin that swung on the X/Y axis. So there are two pins, one on the Z axis which is spring loaded for retraction and one in the X/Y axis that is fixed to the swing arm. I drilled an extra hole for a padlock and am using a clevis pin for extra security when not padlocked The swing arm has a small upward pre-load to compensate for the weight of the tire and to help eliminate any rattling, if any. I bet a couple of flicks will clarify so here ya go:

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
Some might have seen my thread "intake tube" where I describe my intake tube failure. I decided to fab a replacement cold air tube to replace the collapsed plastic stocker. The stock tube was a nominal dimension of 2 1/2". I did not want to cut up my airbox until I had decided on a snorkel or not and ultimate size of the tube. I replaced the plastic 2.5" stocker with 2.5 aluminum tube bends that I had on the shelf. Here is my temporary solution:

I cut some screen from an old aircleaner to prevent the local hoodlum squirrels from putting walnuts into the intake, they have been puttin' them everywhere else!


I know a sweeping transition would have been the best solution, I just did not want to start cutting on the airbox just yet.

Driving impression, seems that the old intake tube was collapsing and restricting airflow, EGTs are cooler and boost comes on earlier and is 18-20 PSI when honking hard!
Hola
eric

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I like it!

The new intake is awesome.

I know you just swapped the stuff from the Canadian truck into the FJ-40, but do you have any good pictures of the EDIC and fuel control relay?

That is some nice work there, the A&P in you is obvious. I think you should fab up a snorkel. They look cool, and I like the idea of keeping the intake air cleaner (although the side mounted intake might do a lot of that).

Dan

 

[Otterav]

I like it!

The new intake is awesome.

I know you just swapped the stuff from the Canadian truck into the FJ-40, but do you have any good pictures of the EDIC and fuel control relay?

That is some nice work there, the A&P in you is obvious. I think you should fab up a snorkel. They look cool, and I like the idea of keeping the intake air cleaner (although the side mounted intake might do a lot of that).

Dan

What specifically are you looking for with the EDIC and control relay? The BJ series EDIC either 12 or 24V are very similar, in fact the wiring harnesses are essentially the same. The 12V and 24V plugs are the same, the power wires are just in a different position.
Hola
eric

 

[DanS HJ-45]

What specifically are you looking for with the EDIC and control relay? The BJ series EDIC either 12 or 24V are very similar, in fact the wiring harnesses are essentially the same. The 12V and 24V plugs are the same, the power wires are just in a different position.
Hola
eric

I'm interested in the location (I'm assuming RH kick panel or so), and the plug that goes into it.

I'm not all that concerned with where the wires go once they leave the plug, I'm more curious as to the actual shape of the plug.

Dan

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
Seems like I had too much spare time, started phucking around with the spare aluminum tubing, decided to make a ram air tube inspired by aircraft from the 40's and 50's. See above!





Hola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Hey
I was rummaging around in iPhoto, found these pics of my flat tow bumper mount and tow bar. Towed to the Sierras and back without any drama. Here ya go:

Hola
eric

 

[KOOTENAY KRUZER]

I wonder at your boost levels. The FSM says the max boost for the 13B-T should be 6.0 - 8.0 psi at maximum speed (4,050 - 4,200 RPM). The major differences between the 3B and the 13B-T are the 13B-T has a different cylinder head (direct injection rather than indirect through combustion cups) and it has 2mm larger piston pins.

You must be making lots of power, I just wonder about engine life.

 

[Otterav]

I wonder at your boost levels. The FSM says the max boost for the 13B-T should be 6.0 - 8.0 psi at maximum speed (4,050 - 4,200 RPM). The major differences between the 3B and the 13B-T are the 13B-T has a different cylinder head (direct injection rather than indirect through combustion cups) and it has 2mm larger piston pins.

You must be making lots of power, I just wonder about engine life.

I guess we will see, at my current state of use, I will need another motor in about 8-10 years. I figger the 15BT will be reasonably priced by then. Not to discount the spare 3B I picked up for a song, as a spare.
Hola
eric

 

[MOTERRA]

Great thread! ..I'm planning the same swap using a 3b from my bj60 and a 71 fj40 w/ aluminum tub... thanks for the great pics and info.

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
I mentioned my overhead cover in another thread, for the record here are some flicks of the cover and a couple movies from the high sierras:







I just won a 1 to pneumatic chain hoist for the project, will be fabbing the cross beam and trolly ASAP.
Hoist:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=350114345760




Hola
eric

 

[MOTERRA]

this thread is awesome.....

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
The mutant continues to mutate. While I was in HI picking up the H55 and assorted parts I snagged the P/S pump from the BJ60. Well as you all know S-N-T was last weekend and what better way to prep than a major system revamp! Remind me to stick my tongue into a spinning blender next time I think of such a genius plan! I started with the left front fender and steering column. I then took the already mutated steering box off of the mutant, and pulled the steering arms and rods. Well after temp installing the new hysteer arms and Datin Fab tie and relay rods w/80 series rod ends it became evident that placing the rod ends on top of the hysteer arms wasn't gonna fly clearance wise. Out comes the lathe, tapered ream and tig welder. I even had to make a bushing for the BJ pitman arm, drilled all them suckers out to .750" and welded the bushings in. Here are some flicks:

I had to lengthen the OEM steering driveshaft and cut the rag joint end off of the 40 steering column and weld a splined section from an old manual steering box I had lying around. I also turned a Delrin bushing for the steering column end and got rid of the rest of the crappy OEM thingy.



Here you can see the "new" shock mounting location:

Pitman and D/S hysteer arm:

Pax side of the mutation, you can see the "new" lower shock mount on the BJ42 spring plates, freshly welded on.:

Rust is from 2.5 days at S-N-T, flat towed the sucker down without any drama or nonsense, 50 MPH!
Hola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Here is a snapper of my Ingersoll-Rand 1 ton pneumatic chain lift:

It's really Caterpillar yellow in color!

Hola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
I thought I would update the thread after driving the mutant about 150 miles on the street. Almost all the bumpsteer is gone, bumps and accell/decell maneuvers that would have previously caused drunken driving gyrations are non-existent. I would have to say any general goofieness is from the tall lift and locker. I would have to say that this is a 4 3/4 star mod. I am happy!
Hola
eric

 

[MOTERRA]

are you using a bj60 power steering box aswell as the pump or is that another yota steering box?

i have a fj40 frame bare with no pump or steering box ....should i buy a fj/bj60 steering box?

 

[Otterav]

are you using a bj60 power steering box aswell as the pump or is that another yota steering box?

i have a fj40 frame bare with no pump or steering box ....should i buy a fj/bj60 steering box?

FJ/BJ power steering boxes are the same, cheap and easy to find. I used Datin Fab tie rod and relay rods, I do not know how you will shorten the stock FJ/BJ rods, some fab work will be necessary to adapt to the 40.
Depends on your shop ability, I rate it a job.
Lemme know
eric

 

[MOTERRA]

i think I get it, so that is a 60 series steering box on your 40...

 

[Otterav]

i think I get it, so that is a 60 series steering box on your 40...

That's the fact jack! (Bill Murry, Stripes) You will need spacers for the frame to be able to mount the 60 box, tie rod and relay rods for the "new" steering setup. You will also need to shorten the 60 tie rods to fit your installation. I would source the steering arms from the 60 to insure that the rod ends will fit. If you don't have the "large" pattern knuckles you will need those too. This swap is mostly a bolt up project with the exception of the shortening of the tie and relay rods. I have a set of tie and relay rods that I have shortened. I cut and rethreaded the ends, I wanted to replace the cut and welded ones I had started with on the project. If you want the cut and rethreaded rods with all the rod ends(1 year old 10K miles or less will need new dust boots(SOR), pickle fork killed them), make me an offer via PM with your zip code and I will decide and return a cost with shipping. Or you can reverse shipping calculate from 95006 package would be 8" x 8" x 48" and 15 lbs.
Hola
eric