FJ to BJ mutation? (2 Viewers)

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Hey,
Drive test complete, power steering is necessary, drove to the test hill, with the rear locker and 1 driven up front I had to add some throttle to get a little momentum. Double lockers allow idling right up from a dead stop, this is gonna be trouble.
Hola
eric
 
Hey,
For what its worth, I was pulling out onto the street with the 4WD engaged and the hubs locked, as soon as the tires hit the asphalt the cruiser went straight ahead, I almost hit a fence. I don't think I will be using 4WD on the street again!
Hola
eric
 
Hey Otterav, great thread!

I have a stock (mostly) '84 BJ42 with 3b, h55f, with 33's and definitely notice the need for down shifting up hills, especially if she's loaded for a long trip! My thought was to do a turbo add-on, since from what I see on Mud and from your thread the 3b is a good match for one.
(My bad if this is on another thread somewhere), but I'm wondering how you would rate the whole process for difficulty.
I don't have a lot of experience as a mechanic, but am very hands on and learn things easily. My actual job is really just "figuring sh!t out" and making things work together that just weren't meant to, so I think I can take on anything reasonable, and know when to ask for help. That's why I'm here now, and not because I went and bolted a turbo on and blew off my header :D

I see a fair bit of fab work on the intake/output etc, but other than that is it pretty much bolt on and go? would I need an intercooler? I don't see one in your case..
Thanks for any advice, and for the great info so far! :cheers:
Sean
 
Sean,
The intake connector tube is really the only fabrication. The rest is mostly bolt up. Oh yes the exhaust pipe has to be fabbed. Go for it you won't regret it, intercooler is only necessary if pulling more than 10 PSI on the boost and on road, my cruiser doesnt even register much when wheeling. On road is a different story.
Hola
eric
 
Otterav said:
Sean,
The intake connector tube is really the only fabrication. The rest is mostly bolt up. Oh yes the exhaust pipe has to be fabbed. Go for it you won't regret it, intercooler is only necessary if pulling more than 10 PSI on the boost and on road, my cruiser doesnt even register much when wheeling. On road is a different story.
Hola
eric
Click to expand...

Thanks Eric!
I've been looking more at your turbo install, and I have a few questions....
The line going from the intake line to the firewall, does that run to a guage for the boost levels?
How is the boost adjusted, is it possible to limit it or is it just a function of the turbo design?
Would having a normal muffler affect the turbo much?
From what I see, a shopping list would include the turbo, manifold, tubing for fab work on intake and exhaust, a boost guage and plumbing for it......:hmm: Anything I'm missing?
Love the shop setup by the way! I need to build something soon, winters here aren't nice. Either is laying on the ground to work on stuff!
Thanks again!!
Sean
 
Itsmesg said:
Thanks Eric!
I've been looking more at your turbo install, and I have a few questions....
The line going from the intake line to the firewall, does that run to a guage for the boost levels?
How is the boost adjusted, is it possible to limit it or is it just a function of the turbo design?
Would having a normal muffler affect the turbo much?
From what I see, a shopping list would include the turbo, manifold, tubing for fab work on intake and exhaust, a boost guage and plumbing for it......:hmm: Anything I'm missing?
Love the shop setup by the way! I need to build something soon, winters here aren't nice. Either is laying on the ground to work on stuff!
Thanks again!!
Sean
Click to expand...
Sean,
The line from the intake is for the boost guage.
The boost is adjusted via the injection pump, the waste gate can control max boost.
The turbo does not need a muffler, if you gotta have one the one with least restriction would be best.
You will need an EGT pyrometer for increased boost levels.
It really isn't that difficult, it is a plumbing exercise.
Good luck
eric
 
Awesome, thanks again! :cheers:
 
Hi Eric.
Just read your entire thread again and could not find it. Is your CT26 out of a 1HD-T engine/same size as the CT26 out of those engines ?

Thanks in advance
 
Last edited:
tmarx said:
Hi Eric.
Just read your entire thread again and could not find it. Is your CT26 out of a 1HD-T engine/same size as the CT26 out of those engines ?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Hello,
My turbo is out of a Supra, it has a single round entrance hole for the manifold. The other CT26 is from a MR2, and has a divided entrance scroll, not the best choice. I get lots of HP from an easily obtainable off the shelf turbo, I pay less than $125.00 on eBay for turbos, just check the area around the waste gate area for cracks. The tough part is getting a 13BT manifold.
Good Luck with your project!
eric
 
Thanks Eric.

I have had a Mitsi TD04h turbo for a while but have just found a 13BT manifold. Now I have a good lead on a CT 26 out of a 1HD-T :confused: :meh:
 
Hello,
Update, turbo and 3B still running strong, still hitting 18PSI on a semi regular basis. Went wheeling on the annual camping trip, powersteering was fine with the tires at 30PSI, puked a little fluid at 15PSI. Still happy! Added a 20MM ammo can to my spare tire rack also!
eric
 
Well....
After being absent for awhile, I thought I would post another chapter in the Mutant's history. Although I am currently 4 speeding it, I do have a H55 held in reserve, waiting for the next round of silliness. I will bet that most everybody using all versions of the Toyota transfer case and its linkage will agree, that even when new it probably was marginal in the slop department. Fast forward, with the H55 sitting on the ground it seemed silly to not develop my own version of the twin stick transfer case shifter. AA has one for the one piece transfer and Georg at Valley Hybrids has his version, I thought I would develop my own version, simply for the fabrication exercise.

Here is the start:
The pivot is the stock, and I reverse manufactured the pivoting/rotating components using 1.500" DOM tubing and machined Delrin bushings and washers to isolate the metal from metal to rid the Mutant of the buzzing going down the road. I sliced the stock arm from the original linkage and welded it to the tube using the good old Miller TIG and silicon/bronze welding rod, I would have used nickel rod but it was lost in the giant mess that is my shop....

DSCN0450.jpg

My push/pull rod comes from these guys, they make smokin' rods and ends:
Out-Pace.com

Will add pics as the project progresses!
eric

The high/low pivot will be added to the OEM clamp when the push/pull rod arrives from the supplier. Here is the 2/4 shifter:

DSCN0452.jpg
 
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Hey
Went to S-N-T '11, was on the drive down US 101, speedo quit and about 60 miles later the transfer started making rock crusher type noises. Stopped and had a local shop pump it full of 140 WT, Made it to SNT and finished the transfer off on the sand. Pics tell the story:

DSCN0462.jpg


DSCN0463.jpg


DSCN0464.jpg


DSCN0465.jpg


Some might have seen the Mutant parked near the sign post DOA, had to be dragged to that point. My buddy went home and got his Dodge and a flat bed to drag it home. Oh well at least I made a showing. I have 2 spare splicases in reserve so now its just an exercise in swappage, knucklehead manuvers never quit. I guess the 5 speed swap is happening sooner than I thought....
 
Last edited:
wow what do you think happened? :eek: those gears are thrashed!!!!!
 
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