FJ to BJ mutation? (1 Viewer)

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Boulder Creek, CA
hello,
I have started the actual swapping of the 3B into my FJ40. Up to this point most of what I have been doing was removal of engines and motor mounts. Got that stuff done and here are some flicks of the BJ motor mounts relocated onto the FJ.The plates have some really cool flange nuts welded to them, this allows more gripping surface and negates the need for a wrench on the inside of the frame. The bolts will be secured with safety wire aircraft style to prevent loosening of the bolts. Trans mounting will be finished tomorrow! I got a transfer mounted parking brake kit and that will go into the split case also tomorrow. Getting excited, grunt work is starting to be finished, fabrication and install just starting up!

DSCN0046.jpg

DSCN0044.jpg


eric:beer:
P.S. I was gonna weld the mounts to the frame, but I decided that upsizing the bolts and creating the clamping plates was more similar to the original riveted mounting process. I don't know how I would have done this with out the donor BJ41 less than 30' away for measurements and such. Motor mount bolts are 16mm, and trans mounts are 14mm, about 10% larger than the original rivets.
DSCN0043.jpg
 
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brownbear

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Cool!

Amazing how this thread slipped down the list with out responses :)

I like the mounts. Any reason you decided against welding them on the frame? The idea should work. You would just have to keep an eye on them so that they do not pound too hard on the holes in the frame. Causing elongation or cracking.

in fact using a small bead may also be good to prevent any movement.

Lets see some more shots.
 
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Ya, I'm thinking the same thing - might as well tacl it into place and be done with it. 1 inch of good weld holds 60K pounds - or something like that.
 

brownbear

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vibration will start to get things moving. Then when a little gap is present it will really start to work. The 1 inch bead will make sure it cannot move. The majority of the load will still be on the bolts, which is fine. Its the potential for movement you want to stem.
 
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Glad to see this...

My Dad recently purchased a 3B to put into his FJ-40... Probably won't do the swap for quite some time yet, but I'm sure it will be helpful to see someone else do it first. :)

Dan
 
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I'm watching this thread as I am planning to do the same thing with my fj40.

I just have to build my garage first. :(
Hey,
My shop is a fab shop, no parking inside at all. I am doing the swap/mutation on dirt and 10% grade in the yard. This requires a little rigging, but still doable. I like to think that this set of conditions keep the conditions in spirit of the original landcruisers, rough, dirty, and kinda crude. Go for it, its great fun!
eric:bounce:
 
Joined
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Messages
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Cool!

Amazing how this thread slipped down the list with out responses :)

I like the mounts. Any reason you decided against welding them on the frame? The idea should work. You would just have to keep an eye on them so that they do not pound too hard on the holes in the frame. Causing elongation or cracking.

in fact using a small bead may also be good to prevent any movement.

Lets see some more shots.
Hey,
The original rivets are about 7/16", the new bols are 16mm or about 5/8". The original rivets only used the head and upset head for bearing surface on 3 of the 4 mounts. The 4th mount uses a backing plate for reinforcment/strength. I thought about tacking them in place, but for the time being the clamping area of the flange bolt heads, and 1/4" clamping plates provide 20-30 times the clamping surface area than the original rivets. Welding creates a heat affected zone(haz) which could cause cracking, since the rest of the frame is riveted, I will try this method first, then esclate to welding if there is any evidence of movement or shifting. Being a aircraft mechanic, I am a believer in the original manufacturing engineers wisdom for the manufacturing process(non-welded). Rivets allow the base metal to flex to a limited amount, welding fixes the mount to the base metal and is immobile and rigid concetrating the stresses into a very localized area. There are very few welded attachments to the original frame, so think of this as an experiment, this will also allow the wannabe swappers who do not possess welding equipment to possibly participate also. I will be splitting the split case today for the xfer mounted parking brake kit. The kit will allow me to have 4 wheek discs and a parking brake all in a similar config to the original truck. I will be putting a full floater in the rear shortly, this will allow the rear to have discs without the semi-floater caliper issue. Pics of the xfer guts to follow if anyone is interested. Pics of the engine install will follow as soon as it goes in.
Continue the debate!
eric:grinpimp:
 
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Hey,
My shop is a fab shop, no parking inside at all. I am doing the swap/mutation on dirt and 10% grade in the yard. This requires a little rigging, but still doable. I like to think that this set of conditions keep the conditions in spirit of the original landcruisers, rough, dirty, and kinda crude. Go for it, its great fun!
eric:bounce:

I hear ya. It rains like a bastard here and I want to strip my truck down as well and do some body work. I'll wait until I have a covered area and some space to work where it is dry.
 
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hello,
I just spent today removing the wiring harness from the BJ and transferring it to the FJ. I retaped some areas that were loose and needed reinforcment. Spent about 4 hrs figgering the pinout on the speedo heads, everything is the same plug location with the exception of a wire at the #8 position. On the FJ that wire is blue w/white stripe, on the BJ that pin is not used. The wiring diagrams for the FJ do not even have a blue w/white stripe wire. Well long story short, that wire is some sort of speed sensor for the emissions stuff. I will be wiring the 12v BJ60 start relay and glow plug relay tomorrow. I will also get some polyurethane paint for the firewall and prep tomorrow.
Ola
eric:beer:
P.S. I already repinned the EDIC plug for the motor and relay. Its kinda cool Toyota uses plugs in areas with empty pins sockets 12v uses one pin socket, 24v uses a different unused pin socket.Yhis allows them to produce one harness and just use different pin sockets for the power sections!
 
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Hmm...wish I thought of that before I did mine. I put bolts back through the original holes, then huge "fender" style washers on the back, then lock nuts. It was a real beotch to get those buggers tight INSIDE the frame. I may redo mine in time, or just run a bead on it as others have said. I'll keep an eye on mine too. Be sure to post up what you do to the exhaust....mine was a booger to run and get it high up enough.
 
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Hey,
Back into the fray, I stripped the firewall to bare metal, primed with PPG primer, then DCC for the color. I have had 2 different quarts of paint mixed. First was Cygnus White, then another color Toyota white, I think I will try Artic White as a last resort. Here are some linkys for the progress shots:
DSCN7326.jpg

DSCN7327.jpg

:doh:
eric
 
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Joined
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Messages
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Boulder Creek, CA
Hmm...wish I thought of that before I did mine. I put bolts back through the original holes, then huge "fender" style washers on the back, then lock nuts. It was a real beotch to get those buggers tight INSIDE the frame. I may redo mine in time, or just run a bead on it as others have said. I'll keep an eye on mine too. Be sure to post up what you do to the exhaust....mine was a booger to run and get it high up enough.
Hey,
After talking to some friends, one who is an engineer, all agreed that the purpose of the riveted joint allows limited flexing without stress concentrations that welding would promote. I figger 200-300 FT LBS of torque applied to the bolts will prevent loosening. I will be running 3" exhaust piping from the turbo(next project). Today will be the split case opening to install the parking brake kit from $pecter. Once that is done the motor combo install will commence!
Ola
eric:bounce:
 
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Honestly, I think you would be fine with 2.5" exhaust. There isn't much room for the exhaust to run, and the 2.5 is pretty big as it is. I ran 2.5 with my turbo setup and have been very pleased with how it turned out.
 
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Hello,
Todays projects, paint the firewall, got 'er done. Reinstalled the heater blower, brake master/booster, clutch master. Had to mutate the throttle pedal, chopped up the FJ, welded parts of the BJ to the FJ bits. The throttle cable fit into the FJ firewall, bolts right up. Made the gas pedal fit(see above). Nothing is simple! flicks:
DSCN7334.jpg

DSCN7329.jpg

Ola
eric;)
P.S. Crushers came up with some PTO gears, thanks dude, you saved the day! Waiting for some $pecter parts to arrive for the xfer case.
 
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Joined
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Hey,
Drilled the heads of the motor mount bolts. Installed the motor mounts, torqued the bolts "stupid tight", used a 4' breaker bar and pulled on it till it was bending. I weigh 250 lbs and was wailing on the bolts, I figger the torque is about 450-600 Lb Ft. I then saftied the bolts with .032 safwty wire. If this setup loosens I will crap myself. Here some pics of the motor mount install:
DSCN7336.jpg

DSCN7335.jpg

Trans mounts tomorrow, along withe the left Battery mount from the BJ, I stripped and painted it, make some mounting plates for the bolts also. Still waiting for some parts from Specter to finish the xfer case PTO gear stuff. Starting to roll towards the install, gonna do the fuel lines tomorrow also. Gonna use the BJ stockers.
OLA
eric:D
 
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Joined
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Hello,
I installed the trans mounts, "wanked them, stupid tight" and saftied the bolts. Installed the fuel line and sedimenter. Got the vacuum line mounted and bolted in. Got the battery mount for the left side from the BJ, it was bead blasted and painted, I needed to make some nut plates to mount it to the frame, I will post pics tomorrow, too dark for the camera to auto focus! Amazing how much stuff needs to be transferred from the BJ to the FJ, I will say it again, it was a little more expensive to buy the whole BJ over an engine only, but after buying a few parts here and from Specter, the process would get very expensive, very quickly. If one bought an engine and was gonna mount it up without another car to measure it would be tough, if not impossible. All the manuals show frame details, but motor and trans mounting details are absent. If one doesn't buy a whole car, a half cut is the way to go!
OLA
eric:bounce:
 
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Joined
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Well,
I got the split case, split and the PTO gear in, as well as the preloading the new output bearing. I will finish making the nutplates to mount the battery support tomorrow. I think the engine will go in tomorrow also.
eric
 

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