FJ to BJ mutation?

[MOTERRA]

I have a complete bj/60 for parts but it has manual steering....so that helps alot....i'll get a 60 box then..

i think because i'm using a 60 front diff/linkage complete i should not have too many tie rod issues, just maybe need to space the box out a bit to make the distance the same as a 60 or shorten the one rod a bit...how much did you cut off of the tie rods?

 

[Otterav]

I think it was 1.5" or so.
Eric

 

[MOTERRA]

1.5" sounds about right...now i just need to actually get out and work on it ...lol

cheers Mo

 

[Otterav]

1.5" sounds about right...now i just need to actually get out and work on it ...lol

cheers Mo

Mo,
The tie rod need to be shortened the difference between stock 40 and 60 axles, I think about 3"+ .The relay will about 1.5", a tape measure will be your friend!
Hola
eric

 

[MOTERRA]

I'm just going to cut the spring perches off the 60 diff, weld new ones on to match the 40 spring spacing(-1.5") and drop the whole axle in whole. I'd better get my tape measure out and start comparing things.

 

[Otterav]

I'm just going to cut the spring perches off the 60 diff, weld new ones on to match the 40 spring spacing(-1.5") and drop the whole axle in whole. I'd better get my tape measure out and start comparing things.

You are gonna run into the pumpkin w/the 60 housing, use the 40 housing.
eric

 

[MOTERRA]

i guess there is a few differences between the two ....I can always make a custom flange with bolts instead of ubolts and weld it right to the top of the diff. i've seen kits for this on a fullsize so it should be strong. it almost looks like half a spring perch with two studs pointing up .. if my ramblings make any sense...

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
I have 98% finished my overhead crane set-up, here are some flicks:
I got the trolley at a local salvage company for $75.00:

I am gonna add some urethane roller skate wheels to keep the cross beam from cocking while pushing or pulling fore and aft.

Bolts are .750" sleeved onto 1.125"DOM tube, with 2.0"DOM rollers, the bolt was drilled for a grease nipple and the axle tube as well to allow the roller to receive grease also.

Proof test!

I am pretty sure the pneumatic chain hoist will do!
Hola
eric

 

[kim]

Sweet!

 

[rutbeer]

Not that you need it, but if you wanted an extra margin for safety, you could weld a plate on either end of the cross beam that would catch on the side beam flange in the event of a roller failure. Make sense? More or less extending the sliding beam a few inches towards the web of either side beam.

 

[Otterav]

Not that you need it, but if you wanted an extra margin for safety, you could weld a plate on either end of the cross beam that would catch on the side beam flange in the event of a roller failure. Make sense? More or less extending the sliding beam a few inches towards the web of either side beam.

I get your idea, the plate on the top of the roller assy is .500 and tig welded on all 4 connecting surfaces, with beveling for penetration. If the roller fails the top plate is for safety margin, I do like your redundancy idea though.
eric

 

[Diesel42]

Well done. I like your idea over some of the other gantry crane setups. As your allows for the snatching at any sq.inch within that cubical.

 

[Otterav]

Well done. I like your idea over some of the other gantry crane setups. As your allows for the snatching at any sq.inch within that cubical.

Thanks, I was frustrated with the limitations of the cherry picker for practical daily use. It was difficult to pull engines without several extra sets of hands, I think now it will take a fewer sets to achieve the same goal.
Hola
eric

 

[justbecause]

UGH!! i would give lefty for a diesel in my 40!!!!

my grandad and uncle are makin bio now so i went out and bought a diesel vw for the MPG but the dang thing HATE to crank on bio... will RUN fine but i really gota sit there and grind that key for a while b4 it fires up...
any problems like that in the FJ... um Bj.... well u know what i mean

(and i never ran more than 50% bio in the VW i know some people suggest against runnin pure bio especially in cold weather, these problems happened @ low concentration in august in Alabama)

 

[Otterav]

UGH!! i would give lefty for a diesel in my 40!!!!

my grandad and uncle are makin bio now so i went out and bought a diesel vw for the MPG but the dang thing HATE to crank on bio... will RUN fine but i really gota sit there and grind that key for a while b4 it fires up...
any problems like that in the FJ... um Bj.... well u know what i mean

(and i never ran more than 50% bio in the VW i know some people suggest against runnin pure bio especially in cold weather, these problems happened @ low concentration in august in Alabama)

Pure bio has the same cloud point as the original stock used for the process. During the winter I run about 50/50 bio-dino and glow for about 20 sec, state with a minimum of fuss. During the summer(warmer) months I run 90/10 bio/dino and have to always glow for first start of the day. Its worth the extra cranking to be able to give Chevron and the big oil companies the middle finger though! Our bio is locally produced and completely recycled stock, so its good stuff.
eric

 

[justbecause]

hmmm i read on a VEW forum the trick to starting on bio (our glowplugs are automatic only stay on for a certain ammount of time or till they reach a certain temp) supposedly if you cycle the key on and off you can trick they censor... never worked for me...

i was late reading this post.... so this may have already been asked/answered but i didnt see it and it didnt come up when i did a search
but i was wondering where you got yr engine what kinda shape it was in and what i could expect to pay to do a similar conversion??

 

[Otterav]

hmmm i read on a VEW forum the trick to starting on bio (our glowplugs are automatic only stay on for a certain ammount of time or till they reach a certain temp) supposedly if you cycle the key on and off you can trick they censor... never worked for me...

i was late reading this post.... so this may have already been asked/answered but i didnt see it and it didnt come up when i did a search
but i was wondering where you got yr engine what kinda shape it was in and what i could expect to pay to do a similar conversion??

Hello,
I use a "wilson" switch, in place of the timer/relay. I went to Canada and imported the 1981 BJ42, I paid $2K USD, about $400 in taxes and fees to get it imported. After pulling the motor and trans, I parted the rest out, all said and done I think I sold about $1500 in parts. Engine was a 285km motor and runs well. If you had to pay a shop to do the conversion I would estimate between 5-8k. I did all my own fab and install work so in essence it was "free".
Hola
eric

 

[BeratE]

This is a great thread. I someday hope to do the same swap. But damn that is some high boost!

 

[Otterav]

This is a great thread. I someday hope to do the same swap. But damn that is some high boost!

It is indeed high, but I almost never go there. At that boost level, the HP is high and the truck is accellerating very quickly and shifting is required. That much HP in a 35 year old 4WD, lifted truck is a force to be reckoned with.
Hola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
After working on all kinds of other stuff, back to the FJ/BJ. Decided to drop the second Detroit into the front, pulled it all apart, cleaned all the mucky grease out, installed some freekin' trick Marlin double inner axle seals, regreased the whole shebang and installed the junk back together. Debating on installing a double cardan front driveshaft, we will see how much work that will entail!
Hola
eric
P.S. Was gonna do the 5 speed, but just couldn't get a running start, maybe later this summer, after the annual camping/wheeling trip.