FJ to BJ mutation?

[Henry James the 47th]

Great job so far Eric. That mini truck p/s gearbox mount you made is sweet!

Keep up the good work - I'll be following this thread.

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
I just came back from a spin in the Mutant. I took it to the ole' test hill to check the new radiator cooling capicity. This hill is aprox 10% and 4 miles long, climbing from sea level to 2200 ft MSL. outside temperature was about 70 deg F. Lets say this hill would overwhelm the stock radiator within a mile when the boost was above 6-7 PSI. Third gear and some revs were required because of the heat build up in the cooling system. The lack of cooling capacity of the stock radiator would cause a bootstrapping effect on the EGTs, as the coolant temp rose the EGTs would follow almost as they were directly linked, and that is because they are! With a stable coolant medium, the cylinder head remains stable and the excess heat is rejected by the radiator via the coolant. On this climb the coolant never rose more than 1/4 needle width above the normal operating level, the hill was climbed in 4th gear and about 14 PSi on the boost. Once the temp guage moved 1/4 needle with it never rose above that position and the EGTs became the controlling indication for the climb. This radiator is UNREAL, worth every dollar, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. The efficiency of the U.S. Radiator Optima High Efficency Desert Cooler option package is otherworldy! The powersteering is pretty cool too!
Hola
eric

 

[cruiser_guy]

Eric, I was looking to see what you did on the turbo exhaust side. The CT26 has a goofy rectangularish exhaust opening. Did you simply ignore the wastegate or did you work in the wastegate with some sort of wider area before tapering down to the final pipe diameter? Any pictures you can post up?

I have the CT26 on my 3B in the '45LV and I have created a flange for the turbo and I hope to start fabricating the exhaust in the next week or two. My plan is a wider area that includes the wastegate before I taper down to the 2 1/2" pipe I'll be using for the tailpipe.

 

[Otterav]

Eric, I was looking to see what you did on the turbo exhaust side. The CT26 has a goofy rectangularish exhaust opening. Did you simply ignore the wastegate or did you work in the wastegate with some sort of wider area before tapering down to the final pipe diameter? Any pictures you can post up?

I have the CT26 on my 3B in the '45LV and I have created a flange for the turbo and I hope to start fabricating the exhaust in the next week or two. My plan is a wider area that includes the wastegate before I taper down to the 2 1/2" pipe I'll be using for the tailpipe.

Hello,
I got a flat flange from Rabid Chimp, welded a .250" thick piece of flat stock and shaped it to fit the edges/contour of the exhaust flange, bored a hole for the exhaust, welded it up, and whoot whoot 18 PSI. I think I remember the .500 flange allows the wastegate to open almost all the way.Don't worry about the wastegate, it doesn't need much opening area to lower the boost. Using the .500 flange and .250 stock creates a chamber area for the wastegate, and a weld attach point for the exhaust pipe. This is fairly close to the stock method of wastegate dumping. These are the best flicks I have, questions, ask and I will try to answer.

Hola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Well,
No further updates on the mutant. Been doing a FJ55 4BD2T swap/install. I sold a trailer and did not wanna move the 2 1/2 ton truck to get it out, so I went the hard way over the berm, gotta love the detroit, the cruiser just hunkered down and pulled the trailer smartly over the berm without any drama. Damn locker takes the challenge right out of doing stupid stuff!

Hola
eric
P.S. I have a quick attach/detach pintel hitch for the front bumper so I can use the cruiser as a yard donkey!

 

[1234]

Eric,Congratulations ! Very nice job, superb pictures and feedback !I am using a K14 turbo on my 3B plus intercoller + fan underneath and 4 rows radiator (Africa original model from Toyota). I have more or less the same figures as you do with my final settings :- 2 turns back on fuel pump- Max turbo pressure 0.7bar (10.15PSI)- Pressure at 2200RPM = 0.4bar (5PSI)- Max RPM 3250 = 135km/h (flat road, no wind)- Temperature at manifold outlet +240°C (465°F)- Radiator temp = +84°C (184°F)- Inlet temp. (after intercooler) = +55°C (+130°F)I am amazed with you max pressure of 18-20PSI, any effect on the engine ?!?

 

[Otterav]

Eric,Congratulations ! Very nice job, superb pictures and feedback !I am using a K14 turbo on my 3B plus intercoller + fan underneath and 4 rows radiator (Africa original model from Toyota). I have more or less the same figures as you do with my final settings :- 2 turns back on fuel pump- Max turbo pressure 0.7bar (10.15PSI)- Pressure at 2200RPM = 0.4bar (5PSI)- Max RPM 3250 = 135km/h (flat road, no wind)- Temperature at manifold outlet +240°C (465°F)- Radiator temp = +84°C (184°F)- Inlet temp. (after intercooler) = +55°C (+130°F)I am amazed with you max pressure of 18-20PSI, any effect on the engine ?!?

Hello,
When I purchased the BJ the engine had some blowby, nothing has changed. I would imagine the rings will show increased wear over time but that is to be expected with increased power production!
Hola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
We all have the most important mods that we do to our cruisers. Driving around with a big gulp or frosty beverage has always been a risky proposition. Start or stop the cruiser with said beverage in the between the seat box usually results in sticky/messy beverage spilling and leaking through the console and getting all over the floor. I decided to get a Beverage Containment System from a fellow mudder, via the classifieds. Didn't wanna go the easy way so I fabbed up a mount that attaches to the bottom of the dash. BTW Powertank makes this product and its worth every cent! Flicks for your viewing pleasure:
High octane refreshment:

Hit 3rd and grab a slurp:

Was inspired by Rodders Journal rat rod issue, those guys are nutz with a drill!

Hola
eric

 

[Otterav]

I hear ya. It rains like a bastard here and I want to strip my truck down as well and do some body work. I'll wait until I have a covered area and some space to work where it is dry.

Hey,
poured the slab in April and started the FJ55 4BD swap 2 weeks later.

The tarp is temporary until I finish the gantry crane install! I will build a small retraining wall once I have the crane in place. On top of the gantry beams I will build a truss roof and cover it with the frosted wavy fiberglass panels. For the first time in 30 years I can use a rolling creeper instead of a piece of carpet, while working at home!
Hola
eric
P.s. The FJ60 axles are in and awaiting the finish welds, which I will do when welding the motor and trans mounts in place. Rear axle mounts have been welded in place.

 

[rutbeer]

Not saying they are equal in $$$, but rather than do a gantry when you already have a cherrypicker, I would do a $2k floor lift instead. Sometimes you can even pick them up used for less than that. There are businesses around that go into defunct service centers and buy up all the lifts and then install/resell them. My wife's car is a lift only service for most items. It makes a HUGE difference in how easily and quickly you can work on a car. Not to mention safely. I'm pretty sure the $800 the Infiniti dealer wanted to change the belts and fluids would be much better spent on the lift.

For example:
eBay Motors: New Car Lift : Auto Truck Lifts : Vehicle Two Post Lift (item 110266393377 end time Jul-04-08 13:14:32 PDT)

 

[Otterav]

Hey,
Almost everything I do involves different ends of everything I own, the cherry picker works ok, but I want to be able to take stuff(heavy) out of the trailer and shift it around without having to roll it around in the air. I have been picking up the steel used off of craigs list and surplus, so its been fairly reasonable, cost wise. The gantry I am building will be able to lift 4000LBS straight up and move anywhere in the 16' x 14" area. I will also be able to lift motors in and out of the shop(30" floor) For most things I will still use the floorjack. The gantry will also serve to hold my roof cover, lighting, air lines and electrical 110 & 220V for the mig, plasma and other nice to have outside tools. I will have some custom fitted awning "walls for less than perfect weather. Thanks for the input! I did think seriously about one of the floor center lift thingys, craigslist had one for 300.00. Just wouldn't fit with the roof/cover concept.
Hola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
I am back, the banning was a vacation, went camping for a week or so and spent lots of time in the shop. Picked up some side work and went to WI for some cropdusting work, I am back tanned and well rested!
Hola
eric
P.S. Here are some wheeling flicks and a movie:

 

[tlcruiserman]

Hello,
I got a flat flange from Rabid Chimp, welded a .250" thick piece of flat stock and shaped it to fit the edges/contour of the exhaust flange, bored a hole for the exhaust, welded it up, and whoot whoot 18 PSI. I think I remember the .500 flange allows the wastegate to open almost all the way.Don't worry about the wastegate, it doesn't need much opening area to lower the boost. Using the .500 flange and .250 stock creates a chamber area for the wastegate, and a weld attach point for the exhaust pipe. This is fairly close to the stock method of wastegate dumping. These are the best flicks I have, questions, ask and I will try to answer.

Hola
eric

Not trying to criticize, but having the intake the way it is in the picture is going to suck in nothing but hot air, and really drop the performance, may not seem like much but just test it out. Take it on a nice long run as is, then run an intake hose and move it over by the fender in the front and drive it. I am sure you will see a difference.

Cheers,

Michael

 

[Otterav]

Not trying to criticize, but having the intake the way it is in the picture is going to suck in nothing but hot air, and really drop the performance, may not seem like much but just test it out. Take it on a nice long run as is, then run an intake hose and move it over by the fender in the front and drive it. I am sure you will see a difference.

Cheers,

Michael

Michael,
I did in fact move the intake to the stock BJ 42 location. I just used the shorty filter until I could mod the intake for the turbo intake/airbox. I will be adding an intercooler shortly!
Hola
eric

 

[tlcruiserman]

Michael,
I did in fact move the intake to the stock BJ 42 location. I just used the shorty filter until I could mod the intake for the turbo intake/airbox. I will be adding an intercooler shortly!
Hola
eric

Good work

Cheers,

Michael

 

[mikebj42]

Bio? Do you make your own or buy it from someone else.

I ran it for 2 months. (ran out of WVO to make bio) Never had a problem with the rubber hoses. Did you get the fuel/water seperator with your 3B? The one under the Drivers side door? Works great. SOme times had a bit of Glycerin that got in to the tank. But it was easy to drain off.

Cheers

 

[Otterav]

Bio? Do you make your own or buy it from someone else.

I ran it for 2 months. (ran out of WVO to make bio) Never had a problem with the rubber hoses. Did you get the fuel/water seperator with your 3B? The one under the Drivers side door? Works great. SOme times had a bit of Glycerin that got in to the tank. But it was easy to drain off.

Cheers

I have been running B100 from a station. My hoses are not showing any sweating or leaking, the fuel filter on the engine's gasket softens over a long period, but thats it though.
eric

 

[patches84]

Hello,
Picked up some side work and went to WI for some cropdusting work, I am back tanned and well rested!
Hola
eric

G'day Eric,

Sorry if you say this somewhere else, but are you a pilot? I did a bit of crop dusting in Central America in Beech 18s and King Air 90s, and I used to fly re-fitted fly crop dusters (an AgWagon and a Colair) when I towed gliders for a few years before I got hired at a regional airline back in the 90s.

Cheers,

Josh

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
Picked up some side work and went to WI for some cropdusting work, I am back tanned and well rested!
Hola
eric

G'day Eric,

Sorry if you say this somewhere else, but are you a pilot? I did a bit of crop dusting in Central America in Beech 18s and King Air 90s, and I used to fly re-fitted fly crop dusters (an AgWagon and a Colair) when I towed gliders for a few years before I got hired at a regional airline back in the 90s.

Cheers,

Josh

Josh,
I am indeed currently employed as a regional pilot. I was a line mechanic in years prior and think of myself as a mechanic who flies rather than a pilot who wrenches. Given the choice I would rather twist wrenches than fly, flying is exciting at first but after 10,000 flight hours it is quite pedestrian, especially airline flying. I went to WI to help a buddy out and reconnect to my roots and it worked. AgCats 1340 radials, love those round engines! Thats flying! We will see where that goes.
eric

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
After working on every body's junk, I decided to pull one together for mine. Decided on a rear tube bumper/spare tire mount combo.
All the tubing for the base mount is .250 wall, the horizontal tube is 2" X 4" X 53". The tire mount will be aprox 46" long and carry all the load of the tire mount. The swing axle is a Ruff Stuff with a couple of greasable tapered bearings. All the tubes will be capped with .250" flat stock and TIG welded. I am thinking of using an axle from the semi-floater I have lying around,to mount the tire its self, we will see. The latch I designed is a composite of misc parts from OSH, a trailer pin, spring and some washers and a roll pin. Don't worry the clevis hitch pin will be replaced with the roll pin before I weld a couple of tabs for the padlock that I use to keep the cretins out of the back of the cruiser.

Here are a few preliminary flicks of the proto project:

The latching mechanism,

The pivot axle,

This bung receives the pin from the swing arm. The hole is through the bung to drip water/grease out the bung onto the ground. Gonna weld it right now!

Close up of the latching pin and temp clevis pin,