Builds FJ 45 Extended Cab Custom Vehicle Build Finally Begins (1 Viewer)

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Braze the flap back down to the body.


Bend to end over and braze it as well.

Cut hole for new blower motor discharge.
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2 questions / comments

1. are those exahust support brakets enough to handle and isolate the vibrations from the 4BT ?

2. why not a shorter side exhaust tip .?
 
There is a stainless steel flex coupler near the "S" pipe that comes down from the turbo. That is for the vibration.


With my wheel base, it has to go to the end of the rig. If I tucked it behind the rear wheel, I would smash it while going down ledges. In front of the rear wheel and I would get the black soot up the side of the bed and on the tire and wheel.
 
My Orion Problem

This is going to be one of those "Mistakes I made and posted it up so hopefully you do not make them" type posts.


So I took my rig out for another test drive and had problems with my Orion 4:1HD #52. It would not stay in HI and kept popping out. I was not happy. Everything moved smooth and I could not see any binding in the linkage at all. The shifters were moving as they should.

It was after hours so I could not call Advanced Adaptors. I called a few friends and got some advice. Thanks Again Mace and OrangeFJ45!

I removed the tranny hump and the twin stick shifters. Still could not see the problem. I was reluctant to do so but I grabbed the Hi/Low shaft coming out of the T-Case with a pair of 24" channel locks and moved it into HI. it was then I realized my shifter had to be binding. The reason it popped out of HI was because I never truly had it in HI to begin with.

I received great customer support from Mathew at Advance Adaptors. We exchanged pictures back and forth while on the phone.


I started back tracking the twin stick linkage that I installed.

First

This is the twin stick mounting bracket for an NV4500. If you are the NV4500, this is what you see. The hole for the mounting stud goes on top. Technically you cannot put it on upside down since it will hit your driveshaft. I used the mounting holes along with the spacers in the hole all the way to the right in this picture.
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The major binding was actually in the ball that mounts to the HI/LOW shifter stud coming out of the T-Case.


It would not allow the all thread linckage connect too the shifter. Look at the closely at the HI/LOW shifter. The linkage is over 1" away. I am pushing the threaded rod over towards the shifters in these pics and the rear pivot connector is bottom out.

This is no Good!

When assembled, you can force the T-case in gear by standing on the shift lever but it will pop out. All you are doing is bending the threaded rod when you stand on it.
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In relation to the position of the vehicle in the picture:

Top picture is the wrong way to install the pivot on the HI/LOW shaft.


The bottom picture is the correct way.


Instead of the angle on the shifter block going from the (USA) passenger side fender and back to the rear of the driver seat, it should go from the transmission back towards the (USA) passenger side rear wheel.
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I just wanna know what I actually did to help lol
 
Not at all Dan. I am sorry that I could not get back to you when you called yesterday. Things were pretty hectic around here. As I stated in the Orion thread, I am glad that you figured it out, and that, once again, it was not the Orion, but rather, one of the other many things that can contribute to any transfer case/transmission not staying in gear.


:beer:
 

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