mine doesn't have the chrome around the windshield, but does (did) around the rear cargo glass
First Time Pig "Build"
- Thread starter Delancy
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- Thread starter
- #582
Can't find any pics that show around front.
- Thread starter
- #584
That's awesome. Thanks.
I paid by go out of my way to refinish something chrome, but when in Rome....
I want those parts, if anyone has the goods on.
Would that negate the usefulness of this?
- Thread starter
- #585
Dropped off radiator at Oil Capital Radiator on historic Route 66 in Tulsa. A mom and pop shop since '59 and relations, to which I can't tell you.
Said the radiator was in good shape as it sat, possibly been re-cored, but pressure testing it and two rear heaters to ensure viability.
His project out back.
Commonplace insanity only to be seen in this part of Tulsa.
Soda blaster is NLIB so headed to media blaster with two air filter housing, two mounts for, and a battery tray.
Can't find anyone that'll touch the rear heater motors.
Said the radiator was in good shape as it sat, possibly been re-cored, but pressure testing it and two rear heaters to ensure viability.
His project out back.
Commonplace insanity only to be seen in this part of Tulsa.
Soda blaster is NLIB so headed to media blaster with two air filter housing, two mounts for, and a battery tray.
Can't find anyone that'll touch the rear heater motors.
the w/s and chrome trim are specific to each other. non chrome w/s can not be used with the chrome trim. the w/s is coming out of that particular rig and going back with a non chrome weatherstrip, so that exact one will be available.
you may want to hold onto the non chrome w/s because weren't you looking at having to pull w/s for body work, then reinstall, then pull later? use the non chrome for that, then put the chrome setup in when finally done. less chance of messing up the chrome trim, which is rather fragile.
- Thread starter
- #587
the w/s is coming out of that particular rig and going back with a non chrome weatherstrip, so that exact one will be available.
Awesome. You have a buyer.
Have a spare windshield from the 71 that has a nasty crack, but still intact, that I thought I'd use for the interim between primer and paint.
Edited: my Google Fu returned. Answered my own question.
This WILL NOT work with chrome.
- Thread starter
- #588
Need help.
I've dropped two air cleaner housings, two brackets, one battery tray (donor pig's disintegrated before my eyes) one fan shroud, two rear heater housings (not the coils. They're at radiator shop) and an OE jack at a media blasters, and think I may have made a mistake.
Purpose was to remove paint from air cleaner housings, brackets, and tray to see where, if any, repair was necessary, before zinc primer.
On the rear heater housings, remove scale without removing ND stickers.
Jack was to remove paint.
Goal was to prep the air cleaners, brackets, shroud, and battery tray for zinc for PC zinc primer...store, for now, until all black parts were ready for final coating, probably PC.
Paint jack, to avoid disassembly.
Wanted to remove scale on rear heater housings then PC or other clear coating.
Blaster said glass was best media to avoid excessively heating the thinner rear heater housings, and would use on all for the same.
My concern is mostly on the rear heaters.
I was trying to keep the ND stickers intact and unaffected, so masked and figured the only means side stripping not really any option.
Will the glass leave a smooth enough surface to clear coat? Is clear PC acceptable for a heater elements?
The rest is relatively thick and don't think any harm will come of, but am I overlooking something?
If zincs primer is baked, will that but two to seven months of time before final powder? Should I just do a standard semi gloss powder and not worry about "matching" if there's subtle differences to other parts that may PC later?
Is PC overdoing it?
I've dropped two air cleaner housings, two brackets, one battery tray (donor pig's disintegrated before my eyes) one fan shroud, two rear heater housings (not the coils. They're at radiator shop) and an OE jack at a media blasters, and think I may have made a mistake.
Purpose was to remove paint from air cleaner housings, brackets, and tray to see where, if any, repair was necessary, before zinc primer.
On the rear heater housings, remove scale without removing ND stickers.
Jack was to remove paint.
Goal was to prep the air cleaners, brackets, shroud, and battery tray for zinc for PC zinc primer...store, for now, until all black parts were ready for final coating, probably PC.
Paint jack, to avoid disassembly.
Wanted to remove scale on rear heater housings then PC or other clear coating.
Blaster said glass was best media to avoid excessively heating the thinner rear heater housings, and would use on all for the same.
My concern is mostly on the rear heaters.
I was trying to keep the ND stickers intact and unaffected, so masked and figured the only means side stripping not really any option.
Will the glass leave a smooth enough surface to clear coat? Is clear PC acceptable for a heater elements?
The rest is relatively thick and don't think any harm will come of, but am I overlooking something?
If zincs primer is baked, will that but two to seven months of time before final powder? Should I just do a standard semi gloss powder and not worry about "matching" if there's subtle differences to other parts that may PC later?
Is PC overdoing it?
powder coating involves heat, which will most likely not be good for stickers
you will have to take the jack apart. the sandblast media gets in everything.
you will have to take the jack apart. the sandblast media gets in everything.
crushers
post ho
i use glass in my sand blaster here and love the results.
smooth
no warpage
8X the price of sand though
no "dust"
the tip lasts much much longer
when i post up the updates on the 42 build you can see the results
screw it, here are a couple pics
the tape over the decal will be gone.
smooth
no warpage
8X the price of sand though
no "dust"
the tip lasts much much longer
when i post up the updates on the 42 build you can see the results
screw it, here are a couple pics
the tape over the decal will be gone.
- Thread starter
- #591
My concern. I know clear bakes at a much lesser temp than color, but not sure if the metal embossed ND stickers will survive, or not.
I need to get over it and start filling my cart at Shane's, but thought its be cool to keep the original stickers....then I started to think leaving them as is, may have been coolest.
Gotcha.
That's what's being used on this, based on blasters advice.
I priced cabinets and thinking it'll be a good investment, but didn't want to learn on 41 year old parts and the CL lead (has a rotisserie, too!!) never replied.
Nice work!!
Using duct tape and he seemed to think he could detail close enough to it, then I could sand closely.
Wayne, am I putting too much though in the dang stickers?
What do you think of zinc primer powder then final coating with black?
I am not a huge fan of PC on my wheelers, not ATV parts of the past, but they get used and abused.
I had a Gobi rack on the FJC that was two part powder and it was the best coating I've seen, so thinking it'd be tough enough for these engine bay parts in question.
The radiator did not need recore, so it won't be possible to zinc primer then top coat a matching black....unless I want to spend $600 pulling it apart, which doesn't make sense, so hoping for a suggestion on painting it, too.
I realize all sounds anal, but whatever is chosen now sets the bar for all future parts and would like for a close match to the OE color/sheen and continuity amongst all parts.
crushers
post ho
primer and top coat is good for parts exposed to the elements
proper PC applied over proper SB and you can't beat it.
poor SB, poor prep and poor application tech or time and you are wasting good money.
there are a number of PC shops in my area. only one is worth having them do the work.
rad, regular old paint is fine.
high temp PC for engine parts
cheers and best of luck in the build, you are taking it to a whole new level.
proper PC applied over proper SB and you can't beat it.
poor SB, poor prep and poor application tech or time and you are wasting good money.
there are a number of PC shops in my area. only one is worth having them do the work.
rad, regular old paint is fine.
high temp PC for engine parts
cheers and best of luck in the build, you are taking it to a whole new level.
- Thread starter
- #593
Massive storms with damaging winds and rain....yes, rain in OK, in July. Weird.
Anyhow, getting up here early, to beat heat and before workday begins, and snapped this....
Two question.
This valve cover was said to be from the original F, but I do not recall "Toyota" on mine. It is steel, so a little confused.
If from F, blast and coat this one?
Find aluminum 2F and do similar, since they're reported to be more confirming, less likely to leak?
Anyhow, getting up here early, to beat heat and before workday begins, and snapped this....
Two question.
This valve cover was said to be from the original F, but I do not recall "Toyota" on mine. It is steel, so a little confused.
If from F, blast and coat this one?
Find aluminum 2F and do similar, since they're reported to be more confirming, less likely to leak?
crushers
post ho
stay original, you can't be straying and still original.
blast and paint.
i don't remember seeing TOYOTA on any of mine but then i wasn't paying that much attention.
blast and paint.
i don't remember seeing TOYOTA on any of mine but then i wasn't paying that much attention.
- Thread starter
- #595
Gotcha.
Will keep mine intact, then.
Lot of good stuff in the donor pig that I hope finds a home very soon.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I think I saw you mention powder coating the heater elements somewhere in here?
If you actually want those elements to shed heat into the interior, I would not put a thick coating on them...
If you actually want those elements to shed heat into the interior, I would not put a thick coating on them...
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Pablo, powder coating can maintain .004 thickness. Shouldnt affect heat.
Thanks Bob.
- Thread starter
- #598
Only planning to clear coat all components of the heater, except the actual elements.
The way I understand from an Internet education, clear powder coating is done at around 300 degrees, so it shouldn't warp the thin rear heater housings, but I have no real world experience with.
My concern is the glass bead blasting is going to alter the color and smoothness of the bare steel that is OE and I don't know what I'd need to do to return it to an OE-ish finish prior to clear coating.
I spoke with radiator shop about coating the element on the rear heater and be didn't seem to think that there'd be much benefit or detraction, but did point out that the only obvious signs of corrosion were on the top and bottom, so if leaving unfinished, not really a point.
Based on radiator shops initial inspection of radiator, he seemed to think its been re-cored (said he had a limited knowledge of classic Toyota, but that it did not appear to be from 1972), and he left message asking if I wanted him to paint with high temp black.
Haven't replied yet, because I really don't know if I do, nor my options if I don't, but know PC isn't one since it bakes at +400 and can melt the solder.
Pablo, powder coating can maintain .004 thickness. Shouldnt affect heat.
Thanks Bob.
Would to advise to clear coat the rear heater elements?
crushers
post ho
the actual core then no, don't paint or clear coat as it does cut down on efficency
the housing, knock yourself out.
the housing, knock yourself out.
