Those parts are relatively pristine in my opinion.
First Time Pig "Build"
- Thread starter Delancy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #542
In all honesty, though it'll be the body guy's call, I'm thinking that I'll only use the DS lower, hood, and inner apron, off of this haul.
All I've seen need the lower patches and the ones I received last night appeared to be rusted much further up the sides.
Found date, Ige.
There's parts here that I don't see having....
Some I hope can still be found, like the trim packing.
Other pages
All I see I have that's not listed is
13. Port Installed Rust
By the looks of this, it should be possible to remove the Dash Panel by unbolting.
That sound right?
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Delancy, can you send a copy of that manual.
Thanks Bob.
Thanks Bob.
- Thread starter
- #544
Going to do one better than that, but yes I can.
Have the original bound for both the F and Chassis/Body,
Then I have a pre-copied and three ring bound F manual (even came pre-tabbed) that I purchased on eBay, along with the same formatted Chassis/Body manual....but have never received and eBay states "Seller is away".
Regardless, the plan is to scan both of the three ring bound copies (so I don't have to spend 5 hours at the scanner, flipping pages) the host a PDF download, so anyone can have it on file or print it.
Going to check into the status of order right now, but if its delayed and you need, I'd more than happily send the original if you'll return.
Will post outcome of eBay query shortly.
Edited:
Downloading one now.
Last edited:
the trim packing is just a rubber strip, thicker than innertube rubber, but rubber none the less. you should be able to match thickness somewhere and cut/drill to fit.
- Thread starter
- #547
It looked like a formed butyl weatherstripping on the new clip, to some degree, but I hear what you're suggesting.
Be awhile before I'll need to worry with.....
Delancy,
Body bushings are a very confusing thing, by the way Roger talks.
Roger Brown is the owner and I'll let him explain, because I'm still not clear on it. Some years are different, according to him. Anyhow mine had to be reworked alittle to fit the different mounts. Four have a cup washer welded to the mount and the bushings didn't sit right. Look at my build and you can see what I had to do.
Some others didn't have that problem. I got them to work, no big deal and they are standard thickness. I bought a set of "1 lift blocks, also.
Body bushings are a very confusing thing, by the way Roger talks.
Roger Brown is the owner and I'll let him explain, because I'm still not clear on it. Some years are different, according to him. Anyhow mine had to be reworked alittle to fit the different mounts. Four have a cup washer welded to the mount and the bushings didn't sit right. Look at my build and you can see what I had to do.
Some others didn't have that problem. I got them to work, no big deal and they are standard thickness. I bought a set of "1 lift blocks, also.
- Thread starter
- #552
Look forward to taking to him actually.
Hope I can wait the four weeks. Haha.
Have install experience with his products on another platform and seemed, by holding in my hard, to be a close OE match....but 1" taller.
Will let you know how the conversation goes and thanks for suggesting the possibility.
Hope I can wait the four weeks. Haha.
Have install experience with his products on another platform and seemed, by holding in my hard, to be a close OE match....but 1" taller.
Will let you know how the conversation goes and thanks for suggesting the possibility.
73% of statistics are made up. 82.4% if its on the webernetz.
- Thread starter
- #554
The irony. Haha.
"If you can't beat 'em, baffle 'em with bullchit."
-Delancy
Dropped of bobm's panels at resto shop, abf went over pics of front clip, to get a good idea on what will be used and what's not.
After about an hour and a half of discussions , I have made a determination to go "all in", proverbially speaking, and changed my expectation level from a 7 to an 8.5-9.
Why not?
We already know the value of a restored Pig and I still don't care, probably because I've surpassed that value with all purchases (had one very LARGE one with Onur, today) and I haven't even started yet. Only driven her for maybe a mile.
I don't care. Happier than a Pig in chit, anyway.
Ignorance is bliss.
Current Plan:
Going to get all the sheet metal corrected and epoxy primed at current location, picking and choosing the best potential parts from what I've accumulated.
If its removed and not essential to resto-shops scope of work, going to pick up and do my thing with it, like chrome handles, vents, indicator trim, interior parts, firewall appendages. so forth, leaving only the harness and column/IGN in place, so that it can be started.
My only request was that I can fire the engine. Nothing essential to that function alone needs to remain, as it won't be driven from his location.
Resto guy says the epoxy primer he uses is good for 6 months exposed, 12 months or more, stored dry, so will have an opportunity to do the following:
After he's done, attack the mechanical systems, coating as they're addressed, be it axles, engine/tranny/TC, or anything that can be removed from frame/chassis.
At this point, goal would be a point that its test drive able and every mechanical function 100% operational.
Then, take it all apart and treat frame, pull body from chassis and either chemically treat body or blast off primer, paint body parts (back to OE green/white, of course) and frame coating (TBD). Commence on a scrapdaddy-ish coating/deadener plan.
Reassemble it all, once again, and drive it around with a chit eating grin, I hope, within a year.
The caveat in the initial stage at current shop is, my work is fill in work, since a buddy deal and since the rate given is palatable.
The Pig is surrounded by extreme Ford restorations, all starting at around $100k, most much more, so this stipulation is the only way the services are being offered. ( I didn't feel the best environment to take pics, nor wanted to ask to at this early stage, but I will in future. Cool projects, even though not my thing. All are trailer queen show cars).
He said that based on the current state of other jobs, coupled with the major deterioration of the Pig, he is sticking with two months completion time for this first phase. If he's done sooner I'll be that much happier, but two months is the agreeable timeframe.
I'm pretty stoked about all but the time, but will give me time to get all Onur's offerings here and ready for the mechanical, along with my portion of the exterior refinishing, like chrome parts, hinges, door actuators, internal engine bay component refinishing.
Anyhow, what do y'all think of that plan?
Best I can come up with, considering the logistics.
This is a different process than any I've undertaken before, but the goal is very different, as is the difficulty level in achieving it.
- Thread starter
- #555
Now, for some questions.
1. Remove glass now or later?
There's no way the glass can be removed and keep the seals intact, yet it's too early to install new (may have some very good news on glass stripping coming soon, by the way).
Based on that, is there any know areas of structural concern concealed in the stripping, that need to be addressed?
I'd like to leave glass in, if at all possible, to minimize exposure to the elements, but don't want to do any surgery at a later date.
2. Keep the headliner?
The only departure from OE that I'm considering is 86ing the headliner for a more utilitarian finish.
Reason I'm asking now is it's be an ideal time to come up with an alternate interior panel for roof, IF its not presentable sprayed with Lizard Skin, only.
3. Strip and finish rear heater with?
Going to set minor goals to complete things that aren't critical, so that they'll be ready when they become.
What's the best method to strip and is there any coating (clear powder, maybe?) that y'all would suggest for the rear heater?
4. Same for alternator. It appears OE and is tagged correct, but had been painted and I'd like to remove.
Best means to strip? (Mineral spirits did ok, but soda sounds like a winner since it'd cost $9-10)
Coat with?
1. Remove glass now or later?
There's no way the glass can be removed and keep the seals intact, yet it's too early to install new (may have some very good news on glass stripping coming soon, by the way).
Based on that, is there any know areas of structural concern concealed in the stripping, that need to be addressed?
I'd like to leave glass in, if at all possible, to minimize exposure to the elements, but don't want to do any surgery at a later date.
2. Keep the headliner?
The only departure from OE that I'm considering is 86ing the headliner for a more utilitarian finish.
Reason I'm asking now is it's be an ideal time to come up with an alternate interior panel for roof, IF its not presentable sprayed with Lizard Skin, only.
3. Strip and finish rear heater with?
Going to set minor goals to complete things that aren't critical, so that they'll be ready when they become.
What's the best method to strip and is there any coating (clear powder, maybe?) that y'all would suggest for the rear heater?
4. Same for alternator. It appears OE and is tagged correct, but had been painted and I'd like to remove.
Best means to strip? (Mineral spirits did ok, but soda sounds like a winner since it'd cost $9-10)
Coat with?
crushers
post ho
you can not do a proper body restore with glass in ...
do it right the first time so pull the glass
take your time and you should be able to save the rubber unless dry rotted.
do it right the first time so pull the glass
take your time and you should be able to save the rubber unless dry rotted.
Delancy,
They do rust under the rubber window gaskets, let the body guy work it over.
The Lizard Skin does have a flat appearance, that's why I sprayed the tinted Monstaliner over it. Gave it a nice look, but since you're staying stock, I would remove everything and spray the LZ, then put up a new headliner. No fiberglass stuff to hold moisture and you'll have the stock look.
I'm going to build a square alum. tubing frame work, that supports the roof and will hold lights and stuff. Maybe a shelve in the cargo area.
They do rust under the rubber window gaskets, let the body guy work it over.
The Lizard Skin does have a flat appearance, that's why I sprayed the tinted Monstaliner over it. Gave it a nice look, but since you're staying stock, I would remove everything and spray the LZ, then put up a new headliner. No fiberglass stuff to hold moisture and you'll have the stock look.
I'm going to build a square alum. tubing frame work, that supports the roof and will hold lights and stuff. Maybe a shelve in the cargo area.
windshield frame is notorious for having rust under the weatherstripping that will need to be addressed.
- Thread starter
- #559
Inevitably planned to pull and re-seal all, but considering the duration of time between primer and paint, was concerned about not having the glass to protect from elements, should she endure.
Hopefully, can save the seals to temporarily re-install glass, until final paint and assembly.
If not, will devise a means to keep water from gathering inside the epoxied interior shell.
I figured, but poking in with an awl, there was none "felt".
One area I could see diverting from OE is headliner, but have plenty of time to check out options.
Kind of what I was thinking was an lightweight inner "skin". Redoing/fixing the roof supports so was thinking about.
I'll probably resort to simple, but worth considering while the time exists.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Glass & Headliner
The two are very much inter-related on the Pig...
At least the windshield and rear quarter glass (or cargo area glass) are closely tied to the headliner.
You have to remove those 3 pieces of glass to remove and replace the headliner.
I'm not sure after reading your plan if the Pig will be indoors during this tear-down process? If yes, yank the glass now. If no, leave the glass in until right before the strip/dip or blast.
As for the headliner, I am kind of surprised that you are even questioning it, given your deadicated approach. The headliner is one of the few things we can buy new for our Pigs (SOR/Cruiser Corps/other) for not a whole lot of $ (all relative). As are winshield gaskets and cargo glass rubber (these are $$$, but not more than the fixed rubber glass).
I would pull the glass as soon as you want to pull the headliner and yes, I would put in a new headliner. Adds a nice touch...
The two are very much inter-related on the Pig...
At least the windshield and rear quarter glass (or cargo area glass) are closely tied to the headliner.
You have to remove those 3 pieces of glass to remove and replace the headliner.
I'm not sure after reading your plan if the Pig will be indoors during this tear-down process? If yes, yank the glass now. If no, leave the glass in until right before the strip/dip or blast.
As for the headliner, I am kind of surprised that you are even questioning it, given your deadicated approach. The headliner is one of the few things we can buy new for our Pigs (SOR/Cruiser Corps/other) for not a whole lot of $ (all relative). As are winshield gaskets and cargo glass rubber (these are $$$, but not more than the fixed rubber glass).
I would pull the glass as soon as you want to pull the headliner and yes, I would put in a new headliner. Adds a nice touch...
