Finishing a coiled-over idea
- Thread starter TachedOutOffRoad
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- #22
Nice Buildup! id like to build a runner to beat on soon!
Maybe those Hex Bolts will hold up! i would not hesitate to run them! the only way to find out if they work is to try.. THe ARP Studs seem to work great, and/or the Hendrix Pin Mod!
Maybe those Hex Bolts will hold up! i would not hesitate to run them! the only way to find out if they work is to try.. THe ARP Studs seem to work great, and/or the Hendrix Pin Mod!
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- #24
my upgrade was only $68.40 cheaper than the ARP ones 
time will tell
time will tell
Bolts will loosen up again. Then you will shear them off..You know what I meant
Why would you not use them?
Typically the failure of the hub studs is from them loosening up. Not a direct failure of the studs themselves.
The multi dowel approach has been proven.. It does wonders..
There cone washers under those allens? what did you torque them to?
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- #26
Do you think that the nuts dont loosen? The day that I sheared off 12 studs I know that I tightened them up that morning because two rides before my buddy sheared one side of his off. <---Thats also why I had two extra rotors with me at the ride. I espically know that I tightened them up after the first failure.
He drilled his out and has been running standard grade 8 bolts since. x4 rides. These are all trailer queens too.
Yes there are cone washers and lockwashers underthere.
I put Hulk torque on them
He drilled his out and has been running standard grade 8 bolts since. x4 rides. These are all trailer queens too.
Yes there are cone washers and lockwashers underthere.
I put Hulk torque on them
I have never broken factory toyota ones that have been torqued up correctly [ie: not overtightened.....]
Even with 440hp @ the wheels, and 38'swampers.
Always use new toyota ones, and dont use bolts
If you feel you must upgrade, use toyota 100 series 10mm ones [which are the same as the diff carrier bolts in the housing] instead of the factory 8mm ones.
Even with 440hp @ the wheels, and 38'swampers.
Always use new toyota ones, and dont use bolts
If you feel you must upgrade, use toyota 100 series 10mm ones [which are the same as the diff carrier bolts in the housing] instead of the factory 8mm ones.
Its not really the nuts that are loose its ,you tightening the nuts on loose studs. Then you thinking there tight when they are not. You have to pull them clean the grease off, lock tight them, torque the studs down, then torque the nuts down...
Aside from that looks like a fun trail rig man
Aside from that looks like a fun trail rig man
nice tip dude .. thanks .. !
- Thread starter
- #30
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- Thread starter
- #31
A kindrid sprit
Check this for YOUR future runner . . .
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=132989
Thread hijack on....
I am redoing my 60 knuckles, and have the ARP hub studs from FROR. Question: what is the appropriate method to install them? Do I put a nut on the top threaded portion and use that to torque? And to what torque spec? I'd gladly take an answer in a PM...
Thanks
Hijack off......
I am redoing my 60 knuckles, and have the ARP hub studs from FROR. Question: what is the appropriate method to install them? Do I put a nut on the top threaded portion and use that to torque? And to what torque spec? I'd gladly take an answer in a PM...
Thanks
Hijack off......
- Thread starter
- #33
Well, I tried to take it riding once and the front 3 link geometry was bass-ackwards and I had to rebuild it. The vertical seperation was LESS on the axle the on the frame -----> BAD! This allowed the pinion to rock back and forth about 70% When I test drove it I only went up hills and it was rocking down but I coulndt see it from in the cab The first time I took it out I went down a really steep hill the it rocked up into the top link. :mad3: So I had to redo the suspension.
I fabbed this to test my calculations and took it for a trip around the block. Then I decided to dump the clutch in 1-low and see how not bracing a bracket works.
The I built it again and braced it well and did the dumping the clutch in 4wd, 4hi, 4low, 4lowlow on the pavement test and everything held up.
Remounted my ram and out a cooler on it too
Shout out to Poly Performace for my new springs
Safty first
When I test drove it I only went up hills and it was rocking down but I coulndt see it from in the cab The first time I took it out I went down a really steep hill the it rocked up into the top link. :mad3: So I had to redo the suspension.I fabbed this to test my calculations and took it for a trip around the block. Then I decided to dump the clutch in 1-low and see how not bracing a bracket works.
The I built it again and braced it well and did the dumping the clutch in 4wd, 4hi, 4low, 4lowlow on the pavement test and everything held up.
Remounted my ram and out a cooler on it too
Shout out to Poly Performace for my new springs
Safty first
- Thread starter
- #34
Trail flex showed that I needed some more fender clearance
Trail shots
Shoutout to GrayRock ORV in Mt Olive, Alabama
Picked up a passenger
A little body rub
Trail shots
Shoutout to GrayRock ORV in Mt Olive, Alabama
Picked up a passenger
A little body rub
- Thread starter
- #35
DAMAGE!
My shortened drive shaft broke at the welds :mad3: Hell fix it for free, but that didnt help this weekend.
My shortened drive shaft broke at the welds :mad3: Hell fix it for free, but that didnt help this weekend.
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- #36
More damage!
My plan was to dog it untill something broke and my goal was achieved.
I proved that my lowers are too weak
My plan was to dog it untill something broke and my goal was achieved.
I proved that my lowers are too weak
- Thread starter
- #37
Shout out to my "spotter"
Sweet parting shot
Sweet parting shot
Nice nice .. you make me lol
this is true, my wife falls asleep 5 minutes into the trail.
great pics by the way