Finally!!!! Saginaw PS pump conversion kit for FJ60s!!!!!
- Thread starter orangefj45
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@orangefj45
Georg rather than text you, figured I'd swallow some pride and keep any potentially relevant information in this thread. Am I missing something regarding the use of the Pulley Installation Tool?? The pump shaft spins as I try to tighten the jam nut that drives the thrust washer which is supposed to drive the pulley on. I have the pulley pressed onto the shaft 1/8" by jamming a 3/8" extension into one of the holes in the pulley to keep it from rotating, but it has gotten to the point of needing an impact gun to drive the pulley on rather than an open -end wrench. So before I go that route I'd really like to know what I'm doing wrong.
Georg rather than text you, figured I'd swallow some pride and keep any potentially relevant information in this thread. Am I missing something regarding the use of the Pulley Installation Tool?? The pump shaft spins as I try to tighten the jam nut that drives the thrust washer which is supposed to drive the pulley on. I have the pulley pressed onto the shaft 1/8" by jamming a 3/8" extension into one of the holes in the pulley to keep it from rotating, but it has gotten to the point of needing an impact gun to drive the pulley on rather than an open -end wrench. So before I go that route I'd really like to know what I'm doing wrong.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Not Georg but maybe I can help.
Sounds like you are doing it correctly. I used a screwdriver thru the pulley to keep it from rotating. If I were in your predicament I would try to get the pulley back off and make double sure it's sitting square & not cocked in any way. I also used some grease to lube the shaft.
I don't think I would use an impact gun. Just to be sure...you've got to use 2 wrenches...one on the bolt and one on the nut.
Sounds like you are doing it correctly. I used a screwdriver thru the pulley to keep it from rotating. If I were in your predicament I would try to get the pulley back off and make double sure it's sitting square & not cocked in any way. I also used some grease to lube the shaft.
I don't think I would use an impact gun. Just to be sure...you've got to use 2 wrenches...one on the bolt and one on the nut.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #224
John nailed it on the head. A little oil can't hurt.
I hold onto the pulley by wrapping an old fan belt around it which I then clamp in a vise.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
I hold onto the pulley by wrapping an old fan belt around it which I then clamp in a vise.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Go to Oreilly's and rent the "Pulley puller / Installer kit". Follow these instructions:
I chickened out 3 times with my cheap puller and started galling the threads on the press bolt. With oil I'd get it 1/8 or maybe 1/4" and couldn't budge it any more. I then took @Godwin's advice and put the pump w/ bracket in the freezer overnight and heated the pulley to 200 in the oven. Still couldn't get it. So I went all in, got an O'Reillys rental pusher which was a little beefier than my cheap one, a cheater bar and heated the pulley all the way to 350. Got the pump out of the freezer and decided not to give up until the pulley was on or I broke something trying. It squealed a little and popped every time it hopped further on instead of sliding, but it was definitely going easier than before the temperature difference. Mine sits flush at the end of the shaft, I believe that is correct. I pick up a rebuilt factory alternator from Toyota today so I should be installing the pump on the engine soon.
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I've been drawing and printing an adapter for the new PS cap to the one I pried off the TOYODA pump cap. On the 4th try I think I got it right, printed out of ABS I think it will hold up. It fits snug enough hand pressed to stay but I think I will add a little RTV silicone.
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John McVicker
SILVER Star
Outstanding. If you want to make another one...I'm in.
John
John
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #229
Ha!
That's pretty cool. I'd like a few also.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
That's pretty cool. I'd like a few also.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Put me down for 2.
jmccandless
SILVER Star
Put me in line for 1 !
I say this should be an option in the kit
If you all want to use the plastic adapter I made you should know what I did to get the top TOYODA cap off and what I fit it to. When the factory top cap was originally made it was pressed/crimped onto the dipstick part so I chewed that up with a big pair of Vise-Grips to crush and collapse the inner part away from the top piece. I never pried on it. There might be an easier way but I did it this way to keep the top round and original diameter. I also designed it to fit this cap part # 82581 from Help products like Georg said to get. This little plastic piece I made weighs almost nothing but with it and maybe a little silicone you'll be able to keep the TOYODA on top. The plastic piece is made to go upward from the dipstick side to the cap and then you press the factory YODA cap onto it sandwiching the new cap. I have not heat or road tested these since I'm also desmoging my engine and waiting on my Jim C Carb and Dizzy. I do know that to print these in ABS the nozzle is 230C/446F degrees, I hope engine compartments don't get that hot.
Sorry to hijack your thread @orangefj45, I got excited by your pump mod because I had a 73 Chevy K10 that I restored in college and the only thing I miss from it compared to my 60 is the steering. With that Saginaw pump in my Chevy I could steer with my pinky at idle.
If you want one of these little plastic cap adapters you can pay-pal $15 to diditrain at gmail dot com with your address and I'll print you one and pay for the shipping. Thanks for the interest.
Sorry to hijack your thread @orangefj45, I got excited by your pump mod because I had a 73 Chevy K10 that I restored in college and the only thing I miss from it compared to my 60 is the steering. With that Saginaw pump in my Chevy I could steer with my pinky at idle.
If you want one of these little plastic cap adapters you can pay-pal $15 to diditrain at gmail dot com with your address and I'll print you one and pay for the shipping. Thanks for the interest.
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John McVicker
SILVER Star
Thanks for doing this Brendon. I just sent you a paypal for your cap adapter.
John
John
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Got the cap from 4wheelfever. Easy install, I really like this. Ends up looking like his picture in post 227.
Thanks Brendon.
Thanks Brendon.
@orangefj45
Georg question for you i just finished putting in my second saginaw pump. Im getting a leak somewhere slow drip. I have everything tight as can be, the only thing i can think of is the new PS pump from autozone comes with a set of 2 O Rings however the directions are not clear were the O rings go, and the image certainly doesn't batch the Male end in the fj60s. So do we need to put an O ring somewhere when pulling a new pump out of the box if so where?
Thanks
Brad
Georg question for you i just finished putting in my second saginaw pump. Im getting a leak somewhere slow drip. I have everything tight as can be, the only thing i can think of is the new PS pump from autozone comes with a set of 2 O Rings however the directions are not clear were the O rings go, and the image certainly doesn't batch the Male end in the fj60s. So do we need to put an O ring somewhere when pulling a new pump out of the box if so where?
Thanks
Brad
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #237
What's the part number for the pump you're using?
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Part number is 7023 from auto zone attached is image of O rings I have a significant leak around the main bolt fitting in the back I just have missed something
I want to thank @orangefj45 so far for his engineering and attention to detail. I am in the middle of my desmog and won't be able to start the engine to see the final result for a little while.
I bought the Autozone 7023 pump and when I saw the bolts sticking out the backside all I thought was how awful it was to remove the oem pump since I incorrectly tried to remove the pump from the bracket. I couldn't do it because the rear bolt hits the exhaust manifold. After a quick search on MUD I read that the bracket needs to be removed from the block then remove the pump from the bracket. Reading through this thread I saw Godwin using Adavance Autoparts pump, part # 20-7920F. I purchased it because it didn't have the unused bolts on the back so it looked cleaner and the website said the pressure line would be an exact fit, M16 x 1.5 like the original FJ60 pump. Little did I know I could simply remove the external bolts from the Autozone 7023 and replace with internal only. I figured this out when there was another plastic plug on the back of the Advance Autoparts pump and a google search.
View attachment 1387491
View attachment 1387492
But since I had both pumps I decided to take some pictures so others could see. The Autozone and the Advance Autoparts pumps that I got differ in reservoir clocking, mounting bolt depth and output pressure line fit. With all these differences, I'm keeping the Autozone 7023 because of the alignment of the reservoir vertically. The instructions that came with both pumps had extra O-rings so you could reuse the old pump's high pressure fitting if it did not match the one that came with the rebuild. The problem with that is the Toyota pump fitting is shorter and wouldn't thread into the pump anyway.
View attachment 1387497
View attachment 1387519
Even though Autozone's website says the high pressure fitting is 5/8'' X 18 and not M16 x 1.5, it fit the stock flared fitting. It was a little harder to turn to get the flares mated than the fitting on the original pump.
@4wheelfever
I am having a similar issue I left the pressure fitting in that came with the pump and tightened it down as tight as i could with a hand wrench. I used some thread sealer to help, however i have a significant leak at that junction a constant drip that drains the pump dry in about 2-3 hours. What can I do to fix that? As your post states the stock toyota one wont fit, do i need a new high pressure line.
I wish i could help you more...I only test fit that compression fitting to make sure it fit. It was HARD TO TURN, but I tightened it enough to where the flares touched and were tight, the line wouldn't move/swivel. So I assumed it was tight enough. I am waiting on my carb and dizzy from JimC so I was not able to actually run it yet.
I believe those extra o-rings are for putting on the pump fitting from the old pump if you need to transfer it to the new pump if it does not match your stock lines. I don't believe the YODA pump fitting would have transferred to the Saginaw pump, it's shorter, different threads too.
On the 7023 you got, is it a flared fitting on the inside to match up to the Toyota line that is flared? I ask because the Adavance Autoparts pump part # 20-7920F I got was not flared on the inside and I could not get that fitting to thread either. I think the HP fittings are dependent on many different vehicles but the pump is the same, that's why I guess they give the extra o-rings. I hope that helps.
Info and a new HP line from @orangefj45 might fix it.
I believe those extra o-rings are for putting on the pump fitting from the old pump if you need to transfer it to the new pump if it does not match your stock lines. I don't believe the YODA pump fitting would have transferred to the Saginaw pump, it's shorter, different threads too.
On the 7023 you got, is it a flared fitting on the inside to match up to the Toyota line that is flared? I ask because the Adavance Autoparts pump part # 20-7920F I got was not flared on the inside and I could not get that fitting to thread either. I think the HP fittings are dependent on many different vehicles but the pump is the same, that's why I guess they give the extra o-rings. I hope that helps.
Info and a new HP line from @orangefj45 might fix it.
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