Finally!!!! Saginaw PS pump conversion kit for FJ60s!!!!!

orangefj45

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This has been in the works for what seems to be way too long ......

We've built a few prototypes and they've been up and running for a while. Came up with is final design after collaborating with another fellow mudder Brad and then modifying that design slightly a couple of times we've finally come up with a kit we're happy with!!!!
The factory 2F ps bracket is retained and slightly modified to work as a cradle for the sag pump.
The kit costs $129 and consists of:
Adapter bracket, spacer and hardware
Pulley
Belt
SAE fitting for HP PS hose
And you will need the proper sag ps pump and cap. We've successfully used Autozone pump #7023 from Duralast. And you'll need the cap part # 82581 from Help products.
We can also supply the already modified OEM bracket for $50 but we need your bracket in exchange. If you want to to buy the bracket outright then it's $85. We have some in stock; once we modify them they're bead-blasted and then painted so they're ready to be installed.
Shipping for the kit runs $16 with or without the modified OEM bracket.
We also offer replacement high pressure hose along with a section of low pressure hose for $79.

Take your time when you bleed the system!

Easiest way:

  1. Put front axle on jack stands; to take the load off the PS system.
  2. Fill ps pump almost to the top.
  3. Start engine, run for 3-5 seconds. Shut it off.
  4. Fill pump.
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until fluid level stays constant.
  6. Start engine and SLOWLY turn wheel for 3-5 seconds. Shut off.
  7. Fill pump.
  8. Repeat 6 and 7
  9. Once fluid level stays even and you can turn the wheel lock to lock you’re done.
If you let the engine run too long, the pump will cavitate and the fluid will foam up and possibly overflow. Then you’ll need to wait for all the air bubbles to disperse before adding more fluid.

Be patient, take your time.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
shop 209-475-8808
1198743
 
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orangefj45

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We're still waiting for the machine shop to get back to us with a quote on the first batch of adapter brackets. So far we've built them from scratch in house but that's too time consuming. They'll be CNC machined billet steel.
Once I have all my cost figures I'll post a price.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 

gregnash

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SAWEEET!!!!! This may be on the short list, while mine seems to work OK I have always wanted to do this...
 
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Sooooo

Any difference noted in the amount (strength) of the power assist of the Saginaw vs a new OEM?

Any difference noted in general steering characteristics during normal street driving?

Why do we want s Saginaw instead of OEM?

(I'm asking for everyone of course.... well not really).
 

cruisermatt

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Because it is way - way - more assist. And you can buy a brand new pump for under $200. Or the junkyard for $20. And it will last 20 years just like Toyota. And these facts will be true forever.

Another nice benefit is that you can buy the version of the pump with two extra fittings and run hydroboost brakes.

Georg, I was under the impression that a Saginaw pump from a Volvo or GM car is metric and the fittings were the same threads as the Toyota fittings? Or are you using a different application pump? Also, will we be able to buy only parts from your kit, for example only the pulley?

Don't know what your plans are for FJ62's but it's been done before and it's ALMOST a bolt in deal for that platform.
 

Tapage

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Georg .. did you have a price on the kit and pics of what's included .?
 

gregnash

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Because it is way - way - more assist. And you can buy a brand new pump for under $200. Or the junkyard for $20. And it will last 20 years just like Toyota. And these facts will be true forever.

Another nice benefit is that you can buy the version of the pump with two extra fittings and run hydroboost brakes.

Georg, I was under the impression that a Saginaw pump from a Volvo or GM car is metric and the fittings were the same threads as the Toyota fittings? Or are you using a different application pump? Also, will we be able to buy only parts from your kit, for example only the pulley?

Don't know what your plans are for FJ62's but it's been done before and it's ALMOST a bolt in deal for that platform.
I believe that is was only certain vehicle (like a Volvo 470) that had the proper fittings. I am assuming that the rest were all a standard NPT type thread instead of the BPT (guessing) OEM Toyota. Going with the later would allow for easier findings of the pump as it would have MULTIPLE use vehicles and hopefully be in aftermarket production for much longer.

@Output Shaft everything that I have read is that the output for it is MUCH higher allowing for easier turning of the wheels. Think one guy on here that was running it with fresh 35s was able to turn the wheel with one finger. Detriment is that your steering box then becomes the weak point and most end up having to have it rebuilt within a short amount of time as the old seals cannot take the new pressure. But this is then fixed with getting someone like West Texas Offroad to rebuild your box.
 

orangefj45

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To answer a few questions .........

Why Sag?
There are many reasons why this kit, just like many others ( like the one we offer for the FJ40/45s ), utilizes a Sag pump vs the OEM Toyota units.
1) cost
2) availability
3) pressure output
4) ease of installation
A rebuilt sag pump can generally be purchased for $40-$100 or less. They're very trouble free and cheap for the rebuilders to work on because they were used for so many years by a variety of car manufacturers and most of the parts for these pumps interchange. So parts availability is excellent and parts cost due to the sheer demand and quantity is inexpensive. These pumps can be purchased at any auto parts store. Pressure output is about 50% higher than the Toyota pumps at about 1200 psi.
The Toyota pumps will cost you about $100 or more for a reman and a lot of them have leakage issues right from the start. The problem is that replacement parts are expensive due to the much lower volume of these pumps and the fact that some of the parts don't interchange between different pump models. The biggest issue is the pump shaft itself. The front seals harden over time which eventually wears a groove into the shaft. Most rebuilders try to keep their cost down so they don't replace the worn shafts. They're basically hoping that it'll outlast the warranty period so they run the shafts with a groove worn in them, assuming the new seal will do its job. The only way to not have to worry about a possible leak issue is to buy a new pump from Toyota but they're over $400. I've bought quite a few of these and they work great. But obviously they're not cheap. Availability for these is scares and usually they have to be ordered which can take anywhere from a day to a week. Just the cap for these units alone costs $28 at the dealer.

We've been toying with the idea of offering a kit for the 62s as well and eventually we will produce one. But we have a few other products in the development stage right now that need to be finished first.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 

cruisermatt

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We've been toying with the idea of offering a kit for the 62s as well and eventually we will produce one. But we have a few other products in the development stage right now that need to be finished first.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
You don't need a kit, it bolts in :D
 
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