Builds Family haulin'

[Tapage]

The shroud on these ones looks wider .. by far, it's really that much leftover on the lateral of the rad ?

the dorman ford are not great on quality and I've been looking on derale option or doing my own shroud with spal fans ..

 

[brokenparts]

The shop is always open to you my friend.

 

[boots4]

The shroud on these ones looks wider .. by far, it's really that much leftover on the lateral of the rad ?

the dorman ford are not great on quality and I've been looking on derale option or doing my own shroud with spal fans ..

With the gasket on the new shroud it seals against the side mounting flanges on the FJ60 radiator and takes up the difference between those mounting flanges and the surface of the cooling fins. It does not extend passed the mounting flanges. It literally is the widest I could get away with without extending the surface on those flanges. The bolt holes I drilled are at the very edge of the shroud.

The contour fans did ok for me before I started pushing twice the boost (more heat for the intercooler to shed) and this summer I was 220-230F and climbing on the hills. If the hill was a long one I would need to slow down and/or pull over to let it cool off. I think the fan that failed was probably slowing down over time and probably wasn't cooling as well as it could new. My new set up does seem to pull more than the contour set up when it was fresh. I had to reset my fan controller because it was keeping it too cool at the beginning of fall. Now they only seem to go on when I'm sitting in traffic/don't have much airflow going through the radiator and hardly at all with winter here. Sometimes I'll turn them on manually to speed up the cool down process for EGTs when I'm parking it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I had to go back to your earlier picture to see the holes you drilled in the shroud. Will have to keep note for when my Contour fans die! Thanks for leading the way as usual Mike

 

[boots4]

De Nada. I was able to remove my adapter plates I used to mount the contour fans and just use the original radiator holes so it was nice to simplify the mounting. I favored mounting the shroud to the top of the radiator and there's about an inch section down at the bottom that is not covered. I figured it was better to put the fans closer to the top where the hot coolant enters the radiator. If one wanted to get more creative 13" fans could be situated to work but the shroud might need to be more custom to get things to fit/line up. This one required less fab work but needed plenty of measurement to get the holes in the right position. That would have been much easier with the radiator out but I did it with everything still attached since I didn't want to deal with draining all the coolant and pulling the radiator.

 

[Tapage]

With the gasket on the new shroud it seals against the side mounting flanges on the FJ60 radiator and takes up the difference between those mounting flanges and the surface of the cooling fins. It does not extend passed the mounting flanges. It literally is the widest I could get away with without extending the surface on those flanges. The bolt holes I drilled are at the very edge of the shroud.

The contour fans did ok for me before I started pushing twice the boost (more heat for the intercooler to shed) and this summer I was 220-230F and climbing on the hills. If the hill was a long one I would need to slow down and/or pull over to let it cool off. I think the fan that failed was probably slowing down over time and probably wasn't cooling as well as it could new. My new set up does seem to pull more than the contour set up when it was fresh. I had to reset my fan controller because it was keeping it too cool at the beginning of fall. Now they only seem to go on when I'm sitting in traffic/don't have much airflow going through the radiator and hardly at all with winter here. Sometimes I'll turn them on manually to speed up the cool down process for EGTs when I'm parking it.

I ask coz in this pic they look much bigger ( wider ) than the contour setup ..

 

[boots4]

That's my fancy trick photography.

 

[boots4]

Never shared my rear drawer set up yet. I have to say that I LOVE having a rear drawer, especially when I need to get to some tool/part and I have the rear packed with camping gear. I started several years ago making a metal framed unit and was going to use roller blade bearings to make drawer slides but I never got that how I wanted. Then I got a fridge for the back and that setup wasn't going to work so I scrapped that and just grabbed some wood. I went thinner on the wood to save a little weight and it's been holding up great. I decided on a big single drawer with a cubby hole on the left side and a stash box on the right side. The fridge would sit on the open area on the right so that the lid could still open for access.

The power station was put in the right side to power the fridge and other stuff (I have since changed out that inverter since it died).

Here's the driver side cubby. When I flip this up I can still get to the quarter panel storage. I've since installed some simple angle on the quarter panel for this lid to rest on and keep it level with the drawer surface. I put some Velcro on it to keep it from rattling.

I was planning to carry some weight in the drawer so I cut up some slippery plastic strips I got for free and mounted two at the corners of the drawer hole and two as guides on the bottom of the drawer. This allowed me to maximize drawer space. I played without retainers for the drawer and found I haven't needed any so the drawer can be removed easily if needed (loaded would require two people). It slides well enough with the right amount of friction to keep it in place but not as nice as some high dollar bearing slides would.

I fastened it to the floor right behind the rear seat. I had two track pieces I install years ago and finally found a use for them. I also made a removable platform that extends the platform height forward when I have the rear seat down so I can have a flat surface to put a mattress on and sleep in the back when I'm running solo.

I ran it that way for a year to see if I wanted to do anything different. Nothing really changed but I had planned to coat/paint/cover it with something so I pulled it all out and painted the floor of the cruiser to make it easier to wipe down and to further protect it.

Still undecided I wanted to get some protection on the wood so I went with a grey stain and coated it a couple times. When I was putting the drawer together I made it just deep enough to hold standard ammo cans as I planned to use those for my organization.

Here's all the stuff I fit in the drawer.

I still have a little more room to stuff things. I played with converting my tool set to fit into an ammo can or two but things didn't fit quite how I wanted so I stuck with the original container.

 

[mr jits]

Enough of this tech stuff. I want to see 40's!!!

 

[boots4]

I do have some pics on the previous page but they're not actions shots so it's not that exciting. I am liking the tires so far.

 

[Elbert]

wonder if those Maradyne fans are rebadged SPAL products? The SPAL fans are about the best quality fans I've dealt with.

Good setup on the fans / mounting. What are you using to control the fans?....maybe I missed it. I thought in the past you said you were using the SPAL fan controller (maybe I'm mixing things up).

Back a few years ago I tried the FORD V6 Contour dual fan setup....on my 5.7 SBC but I thought it had a capacity problem and I (let the smoke out of) the first generation SPAL fan controller (they made some changes in the controller they are offering now). I did experience times where the fans were at 100% but the engine would not cool off (hot under load with ambient temps in high 90's). (so I went to stock 5.7 GM Fan clutch and FAN...solved my issues, 1999 version of the fan clutch and Fan).

 

[boots4]

wonder if those Maradyne fans are rebadged SPAL products? The SPAL fans are about the best quality fans I've dealt with.

Good setup on the fans / mounting. What are you using to control the fans?....maybe I missed it. I thought in the past you said you were using the SPAL fan controller (maybe I'm mixing things up).

Back a few years ago I tried the FORD V6 Contour dual fan setup....on my 5.7 SBC but I thought it had a capacity problem and I (let the smoke out of) the first generation SPAL fan controller (they made some changes in the controller they are offering now). I did experience times where the fans were at 100% but the engine would not cool off (hot under load with ambient temps in high 90's). (so I went to stock 5.7 GM Fan clutch and FAN...solved my issues, 1999 version of the fan clutch and Fan).

I'm thinking the same thing, they do look pretty similar to Spal fans.

I did have a Spal controller that unfortunately tried to burn down my rig. Thank goodness it was caught quickly and the damage was minor/fixable. I moved on to a painless dual fan controller and that thing has been solid.

My engine originally came with a mechanical fan set up. I've debated about trying it out but decided I liked the pros more than the cons of running these electrics on a diesel. So far they are doing a great job but the cold weather is here so I'll have to really see how they do next summer. I still have the option in the future for the mechanical set up if things just don't work out.

 

[mr jits]

I decided to go with the Gladiator Xcomps in 40x13.5 R17. The black Friday deals weren't awesome but the price of these tires already were so it was still a good buy. I was worried about them balancing out and told the salesman that so he said we'd check it out once they get them mounted. The worst tire only took 5 ounces which is fantastic for this size of tire.

I've only driven surface streets so far and towed a trailer a short distance. I haven't had them on the freeway yet (more on that later, not tire related) but they are smooth and as loud as any standard mud tire in fact they are quieter than my worn down MTRs I replaced but that's typical going from worn MT's to new MT's. So far I'm happy with the first impressions and the size better fills out my fender wells.

I still have plenty of room to fit in the carport too. I was expecting that since I did fit running those 42 rockers in the summer for a month.

The only downside is that I had to screw out my turning stops to keep the tires out of the leaf springs so I've increased my turning radius which I expected. New rims are not in the cards for now and the studs up front were not long enough to run some 1/2" spacers I picked up so I'm thinking of transferring my current rear spacers up front and then getting some wider ones for the rear to balance out the track width. That way they can be removable when I go to less backspaced rims in the future but get some turning radius back with my current rims. I still like the look of the H2 rims with the 60's body lines so I don't mind keeping them.

That looks so good!! You coming snow wheeling on the 26th?
If you can wait until February, I'm picking up a TIG setup. You're welcome to come over and fuse some metal at my place.

 

[boots4]

I'll be off the 26th so some snow time would be great. I'll put it on the calendar.

 

[boots4]

Doing some changes to my injection pump. A few parts are not quite right.

 

[boots4]

I suppose I should start getting some updates documented. I certainly haven't stopped working on it, she seems to crave constant attention over the last 1/2 a year.

I played with a bunch of stuff on the old injection pump. Talked to some shop techs and tried different things. I just couldn't get the fueling dialed in and further adjustments didn't seem to make the results I was expecting.

I played with timing using a dial this time to find out where I was. .074" of lift equaled 1.88mm which I estimate is in the 17-19 degree range. A bit more than I wanted to run but no real difference.

I played with the pressure regulator on my VE pump. The idea is to run a little more case pressure so that more fuel can make it to the high pressure piston and ultimately make it to the injectors. Too much or too little pressure can be bad. However, pressure is used to actuate the dynamic timing function in the VE pump so that plays into the tuning as well.

It has a funny head and was a bear to get out. I fashioned a socket to work but ultimately, as barbaric as it sounds, a chisel and vice grips became the norm.

The center rod on the regulator can be adjusted by driving it deeper into the bolt (adds case pressure) or tapped back out (reduces case pressure) but you have to tap the inner spring out and then tap that rod back up.

Replaced all the o-rings and put the collar back on.

So that's the fuel going in. The fuel out on the injection pump is regulated by the OUT banjo bolt via a tiny hole. It's a fixed size and not adjustable like the P-pump variants. To get a case pressure reading I drilled a port on the end of this bolt and installed a fitting that I can attach a pressure gauge for reading and a cap when I'm not. This allows you to see what pressure you are running. This was part of the conversation I had with the shop tech on playing with the pressure regulator.

I also played with the shim stack on my KSB unit that controls the dynamic timing advance function. Adding more shims would delay when the timing started to advance, thus to compensate for the added case pressure.

None of this got me what I was expecting so pulling off the injection pump for some investigation became the next step. I read the Bosch manual a couple of times and found some good VE rehab threads in the VW world with great pictures to get a clue before I opened it up. It wasn't until I pulled the distribution head off that I found one of the springs broken in two places and the drive from the cam plate to the distribution piston broken. So while I had timing and fueling "set" at a higher value, my actual timing and fueling was not producing those expectations due to the breakage. I'm really not sure how long it had been like this. It may have been this way before the compounds got set up.

 

[boots4]

I looked all over my injection pump but could not find a part number to reference. I found some info on deciphering the Bosch part number:

0= Denotes complete product
460= Product class, Distributor pump
4= Identifier for VE Injection pump
9= Plunger Diameter: 8=8mm,9=9mm,0=10mm,1=11mm,2=12mm,3=13mm & 4=14mm
4= Number of Cylinders
001= Application

I knew my pump had a plunger diameter of 12mm so I took a gamble at the application and purchase this NOS from ebay: 0 460 424 191

It pretty much became my Christmas gift.

I knew the KSB unit was an older style unit and the delivery valves were the longer versions too (I think from the non-intercooled versions). The top housing is what I hoped would transfer over from my old pump to this new one. I wanted to retain my AFC housing which adjusted fueling to boost pressure.

This site became common over the following couple of months while I tested different combinations of the two pumps.

 

[Pacer]

Yes Boots!
Way to dig in!

 

[Kief]

Oh boy, you don't mind going deep do you?

Cool stuff!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Pulling the IP out is not fun.