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- #2,501
Here's where I got them. I got left overs if they burn out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GKQXOP0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Here's where I got them. I got left overs if they burn out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GKQXOP0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Thread starter
- #2,502
Continued tuning. Some tunes would bury the needle on my 60psi boost gauge and others would barely get 50psi and have no bottom end.
During that I found that I started to pop off my small turbo to intake connection. Over the years I've whittled away the silicone and made it more and more out of metal. All I had left was the small section of hose but that was starting to loose grip.
I decided the next time it popped off I'd get a v-band connection. The challenge was that the compressor housing is aluminum but my tubing is steel. I found on Siliconeintake.com that I could buy v-bands in both materials and then match them up for the connection.
2 inch v-band. Aluminum on the left with a gasket, steel on the right.
@brokenparts offered the use of his new Tig machine to try out welding aluminum. I was fascinated with Tig and it's versatility so I watched tons of videos about welding aluminum and tried to get some idea on machine settings. So I invaded his shop for a day and started playing around. I tried all kinds of settings and started to learn how to fill and move. Brought some aluminum with me to experiment on and blew through a bunch of rods. I was starting to feel more confident in this.
The plan was to slide the v-band over the compressor outlet and weld it on.
Welding on a curved part between two parts is nothing like I practiced adding filler and moving a puddle around on a flat surface. It was tough for a new guy. I got the job done but it's not a pretty piece but at least it doesn't leak.
Then it was time to play on steel. I figured it would be easier than aluminum but wasn't getting the feel for it.
Getting late in the day I went ahead and tried it on my intake piece and bombed. Then I ran out of shielding gas. So I moved over to @brokenparts Mig machine and went to town. I ground off all my JBweld I used as sealant and laid multiple passes over those joints. Definitely not pretty but I figured it would give me something to grind down later.
Someday I'll clean it up but it's been holding and the welds don't leak. No flutter in the boost gauge. Much thanks to Brokenparts for letting me use his stuff and burn his electricity. For me Tig welding did not come naturally and I'll have to practice much more if I want to get better at it but at least I've now welded aluminum.
During that I found that I started to pop off my small turbo to intake connection. Over the years I've whittled away the silicone and made it more and more out of metal. All I had left was the small section of hose but that was starting to loose grip.
I decided the next time it popped off I'd get a v-band connection. The challenge was that the compressor housing is aluminum but my tubing is steel. I found on Siliconeintake.com that I could buy v-bands in both materials and then match them up for the connection.
2 inch v-band. Aluminum on the left with a gasket, steel on the right.
@brokenparts offered the use of his new Tig machine to try out welding aluminum. I was fascinated with Tig and it's versatility so I watched tons of videos about welding aluminum and tried to get some idea on machine settings. So I invaded his shop for a day and started playing around. I tried all kinds of settings and started to learn how to fill and move. Brought some aluminum with me to experiment on and blew through a bunch of rods. I was starting to feel more confident in this.
The plan was to slide the v-band over the compressor outlet and weld it on.
Welding on a curved part between two parts is nothing like I practiced adding filler and moving a puddle around on a flat surface. It was tough for a new guy. I got the job done but it's not a pretty piece but at least it doesn't leak.
Then it was time to play on steel. I figured it would be easier than aluminum but wasn't getting the feel for it.
Getting late in the day I went ahead and tried it on my intake piece and bombed. Then I ran out of shielding gas. So I moved over to @brokenparts Mig machine and went to town. I ground off all my JBweld I used as sealant and laid multiple passes over those joints. Definitely not pretty but I figured it would give me something to grind down later.
Someday I'll clean it up but it's been holding and the welds don't leak. No flutter in the boost gauge. Much thanks to Brokenparts for letting me use his stuff and burn his electricity. For me Tig welding did not come naturally and I'll have to practice much more if I want to get better at it but at least I've now welded aluminum.
Nice work Mike. Welding cast aluminum is a PITA for sure. Looks like you picked it up super quick, just like everything else!
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
indeed .. and TIG that was way fast learning curve ..
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Mike did you know a lot of your pictures are not on your past posts. I’m at page 99 and a lot are not there.
Hey Mike, did you remember to switch from AC to DC when you went from aluminum to steel? You're puddles look strange and that's the first thing that came to mind.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
We all learn at some point. Some just learn the hard way.
- Thread starter
- #2,510
I started looking into the fuel pin again thinking that I needed a more gradual ramp for the fuel guide pin to follow as boost was building. I pulled out my M3 pin and put in my stock pin. It sucked so I ordered an THD fuel pin. But while I was waiting I ground in a new ramp on my stock pin to try that out. Took some metal polish after the grind and smoothed it out.
M3 on the left, reground stock on the right
Some time around this, maybe it was before, I started playing with timing using the dial indicator. My dial is in inches so I had to convert to mm. I played around in the .060-.066 range (1.52-1.67mm). That should be in the 15 to upper 16 degree timing range if I figured it out correctly.
It always started well, didn't get clackity loud, but didn't clean up the haze I was wanting to clean up.
The THD pin showed up.
M3 left, THD middle, reground stock right.
My reground stock (back) ended up being pretty close to the THD pin (middle). The bottom of the ramp was a little less with the THD which means less pre-boost fueling which should make it cleaner. The THD is a more gradual/linear ramp than the M3. M3 actually has a little better preboost fueling ramp but then gets into it quicker than the THD. Plus the M3 has a deeper top cut which means more top end fueling. Since I care about smoke I was figuring I needed to fuel my turbos in a way that lets them get up to speed to add in the air needed to clean up the fuel. Too much fuel too soon will slow them down somewhat choking them but not enough fuel won't get them spinning. It's a balance thing.
I played with the M3 and the THD pin. Each time playing with the power screw, smoke screw, and the star wheel. As expected the THD pin felt stronger at midrange and the power was more linear. The M3 pin came on stronger and had a stronger top end. Even up until now I'm not sure which one I like better. What I did find out is that neither of them solved my hazing. With some settings it was worse and more black puffs happened but with others it never went away.
I had the star wheel at the top of its threads and the underside of the AFC housing ground away and you can see in some of the pics above that the fuel guide pin was traveling to the least fuel spot on the fuel pins. But the same weird thing was happening, clean exhaust in park/neutral during idle, but put it in gear with the brake on and it would haze.
With the star wheel maxed out I started putting spacers under the spring to give me more tension. Eventually I started seeing that I was loosing full travel on the fuel pin ramps. I knew I was using a spring designed for a boost range into the 20s so I started looking for stiffer springs to see what that would do.
Found one to play with at the local hardware store. Cut it to length to match the stock spring. Took out my spacers and reset the star wheel to middle of the thread column.
It seemed to help a little but goldie locks would not be happy, it wasn't just right. So I continue to play with this spring with all the settings and see how it does. Maybe I need an even stiffer spring, maybe it needs to be a little longer than stock. I have run the star wheel up high enough that I've reduced full travel on the fuel pin.
It was around here that I just started living with it and started focusing on some other projects. I figured I'd take the injection pump to someone to see if some internal calibration was off and causing too much fuel to quickly. Once I even turned down the fuel so much that I started stalling the engine (yes, even with the automatic) when I'd come to stops and it had no low end power. Even then it would haze like before. It wasn't super obnoxious (except to those electric car drivers -hehe) but just more than I wanted.
The project I really wanted to focus on was getting my AC system working again. It was the beginning of summer and I dreamed about what it would be like to drive that truck in the summer without sweating.
M3 on the left, reground stock on the right
Some time around this, maybe it was before, I started playing with timing using the dial indicator. My dial is in inches so I had to convert to mm. I played around in the .060-.066 range (1.52-1.67mm). That should be in the 15 to upper 16 degree timing range if I figured it out correctly.
It always started well, didn't get clackity loud, but didn't clean up the haze I was wanting to clean up.
The THD pin showed up.
M3 left, THD middle, reground stock right.
My reground stock (back) ended up being pretty close to the THD pin (middle). The bottom of the ramp was a little less with the THD which means less pre-boost fueling which should make it cleaner. The THD is a more gradual/linear ramp than the M3. M3 actually has a little better preboost fueling ramp but then gets into it quicker than the THD. Plus the M3 has a deeper top cut which means more top end fueling. Since I care about smoke I was figuring I needed to fuel my turbos in a way that lets them get up to speed to add in the air needed to clean up the fuel. Too much fuel too soon will slow them down somewhat choking them but not enough fuel won't get them spinning. It's a balance thing.
I played with the M3 and the THD pin. Each time playing with the power screw, smoke screw, and the star wheel. As expected the THD pin felt stronger at midrange and the power was more linear. The M3 pin came on stronger and had a stronger top end. Even up until now I'm not sure which one I like better. What I did find out is that neither of them solved my hazing. With some settings it was worse and more black puffs happened but with others it never went away.
I had the star wheel at the top of its threads and the underside of the AFC housing ground away and you can see in some of the pics above that the fuel guide pin was traveling to the least fuel spot on the fuel pins. But the same weird thing was happening, clean exhaust in park/neutral during idle, but put it in gear with the brake on and it would haze.
With the star wheel maxed out I started putting spacers under the spring to give me more tension. Eventually I started seeing that I was loosing full travel on the fuel pin ramps. I knew I was using a spring designed for a boost range into the 20s so I started looking for stiffer springs to see what that would do.
Found one to play with at the local hardware store. Cut it to length to match the stock spring. Took out my spacers and reset the star wheel to middle of the thread column.
It seemed to help a little but goldie locks would not be happy, it wasn't just right. So I continue to play with this spring with all the settings and see how it does. Maybe I need an even stiffer spring, maybe it needs to be a little longer than stock. I have run the star wheel up high enough that I've reduced full travel on the fuel pin.
It was around here that I just started living with it and started focusing on some other projects. I figured I'd take the injection pump to someone to see if some internal calibration was off and causing too much fuel to quickly. Once I even turned down the fuel so much that I started stalling the engine (yes, even with the automatic) when I'd come to stops and it had no low end power. Even then it would haze like before. It wasn't super obnoxious (except to those electric car drivers -hehe) but just more than I wanted.
The project I really wanted to focus on was getting my AC system working again. It was the beginning of summer and I dreamed about what it would be like to drive that truck in the summer without sweating.
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I can only imagine how not right my stocker 4bt would be to you...
- Thread starter
- #2,512
You know, it would probably be helpful to drive a stocker to see if what I'm doing is even making a difference. It's like seeing your own kids, you don't realize they are growing until someone else says how big they're getting.
Would smaller injectors help your low/mid fueling with better atomization?
- Thread starter
- #2,514
It's possible. The mystery is that these have been clean down low in the past so I've been keeping those off the table because of that. Since I had messed with the injector pump (putting two together) my focus has been on something not right there. At least for me when a new problem surfaces after I'd done some work it's usually related to whatever work I just did. Bumped something, tweaked something, missed something, etc.
I do have more room on my power screw to add more fuel (could not hit runaway with this pump configuration on an experiment I did with idle hanging one day). If I were to go with smaller holed injectors I should be able to compensate any power loss.
I do have more room on my power screw to add more fuel (could not hit runaway with this pump configuration on an experiment I did with idle hanging one day). If I were to go with smaller holed injectors I should be able to compensate any power loss.
Yeah just thinking out loud here, I wonder if your new pump is pushing higher pressure than your old pump and making your large injectors act differently as you make volume adjustments.
Go back to stock’ish injectors and reestablish a base line and work back up from there.
- Thread starter
- #2,516
Oddly the 5x12s were what came on my engine when I bought the stepvan so I had always thought those were stock. @GLTHFJ60 brought that up in the past and we found mine were not stock originals which are 4x12 or 13s. Somebody must have swapped out the stockers at some point in the stepvan's life.
I did play with 5x14s at one point but those were just too big for daily driving. I couldn't clean up the smoke with those. I have since played with 5x12s in VCO and SAC tips. After playing with SACs I went back to VCOs and it seemed to clean up the low end haze. But it had come back after the injector pump change up.
To jump ahead of my updates I swapped my SACs back in a couple months ago but it didn't clean up the haze (I was experimenting just to see). I did start to find more oilyness in my intake track and found my big turbo was getting oil passed the seals so this was definitely part of the haze I was getting. It was more than just the seal but I just took care of this last week and am in the middle of regearing so I haven't been able to get enough miles on it to really see the difference yet and get all the oil burned out of the intake track that I couldn't reach to clean out. I'm not pushing it yet until the gears are broken in.
I did play with 5x14s at one point but those were just too big for daily driving. I couldn't clean up the smoke with those. I have since played with 5x12s in VCO and SAC tips. After playing with SACs I went back to VCOs and it seemed to clean up the low end haze. But it had come back after the injector pump change up.
To jump ahead of my updates I swapped my SACs back in a couple months ago but it didn't clean up the haze (I was experimenting just to see). I did start to find more oilyness in my intake track and found my big turbo was getting oil passed the seals so this was definitely part of the haze I was getting. It was more than just the seal but I just took care of this last week and am in the middle of regearing so I haven't been able to get enough miles on it to really see the difference yet and get all the oil burned out of the intake track that I couldn't reach to clean out. I'm not pushing it yet until the gears are broken in.
- Thread starter
- #2,517
In between all the tinkering I got a chance to take my boys on a father-son camping trip. It was on private property near a creek with a zip line that entertained them for hours.
Brought the small tent and barely had enough room. I guess they are growing.
It was just a quick one nighter but we had a good time and no one got hurt.
Brought the small tent and barely had enough room. I guess they are growing.
It was just a quick one nighter but we had a good time and no one got hurt.
When you're swapping injector nozzles, are you swapping entire injectors or just the nozzles? Curious if pop pressure is an unaccounted variable between nozzles.
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- #2,519
I have two sets of injector bodies (8 total bodies). Whenever nozzles are changed I've taken them to the shop to have them do it so they get the pop pressure set correctly. I haven't bought or made a pop tester yet to do that myself. I currently have one set of 5x12 VCO's set at 245 bar and one set of 5x12 SAC set at 250bar. If none of this current work helps I may need to take them down and have the shop see how far they've drifted to place the blame or rule them out.
- Thread starter
- #2,520
On to the AC project.
I had been worried about installing my AC because of the added heat that would get into the cooling row with the condenser up front. On trips up the mountains with a trailer running the factory FJ60 radiator it has gotten hot (like 230F+ pulling a trailer in summer). To try and relieve some of the heat I decided to relocate my transmission coolers.
Did a bunch of reading and found where others had put their cooler and decided to put mine in the rear with its own fan. In a junkyard visit I found some other transmission coolers to play with so I picked up some more transmission fluid line, a new fan, and a temperature switch to start the project.
When I first set up my system I ran a coolant heat exchanger cooler (no cooler located in the factory FJ60 radiator) from a dodge. I later added a regular cooler in front of my intercooler and had the fluid going to the heat exchanger cooler, to my new regular cooler, then back to the transmission. I put a valve in the coolant line and cut coolant supply to the heat exchanger cooler and kept the valve shut most of the time. Transmission temps stayed in the 160F range on the highway and ran about 195F offroad. For the relocation I decided to pull out the heat exchanger cooler from the my system and run two regular coolers.
I had to remember how I had the exchanger mounted and cursed my logic at the time. Didn't have another hand so I had to get creative on keeping the wrench in place while I loosened the nut from the other side of the firewall.
Figured out how I'd stack the coolers and fabbed up some mounts.
I'm using a 10" Maradyne fan (same brand as my radiator fans). Then I bolted it all together. Both coolers are bar and fin style which are better at cooling than the tube in fin style.
I decided to run them in parallel to reduce the fluid restriction. I also decided to run two because I had seen an increase in transmission temps when the outside temperature began warming up after putting on the 40's. I couldn't run below 195F on the freeway TC locked so I figured I needed more cooling potential.
I mounted these under the rear above the rear axle off of the old shock tube on the passenger side. I had the fan pulling through the stack from an air pocket above and exhausting down to open air. I thought it was better to not have the heated air directed at the floor board to heat up the rear of the cab. I wired in a temperature switch in the fluid line to be on at 180F so the operation would be automatic. With the transmission coolers relocated I could now start on the AC stuff.
I had been worried about installing my AC because of the added heat that would get into the cooling row with the condenser up front. On trips up the mountains with a trailer running the factory FJ60 radiator it has gotten hot (like 230F+ pulling a trailer in summer). To try and relieve some of the heat I decided to relocate my transmission coolers.
Did a bunch of reading and found where others had put their cooler and decided to put mine in the rear with its own fan. In a junkyard visit I found some other transmission coolers to play with so I picked up some more transmission fluid line, a new fan, and a temperature switch to start the project.
When I first set up my system I ran a coolant heat exchanger cooler (no cooler located in the factory FJ60 radiator) from a dodge. I later added a regular cooler in front of my intercooler and had the fluid going to the heat exchanger cooler, to my new regular cooler, then back to the transmission. I put a valve in the coolant line and cut coolant supply to the heat exchanger cooler and kept the valve shut most of the time. Transmission temps stayed in the 160F range on the highway and ran about 195F offroad. For the relocation I decided to pull out the heat exchanger cooler from the my system and run two regular coolers.
I had to remember how I had the exchanger mounted and cursed my logic at the time. Didn't have another hand so I had to get creative on keeping the wrench in place while I loosened the nut from the other side of the firewall.
Figured out how I'd stack the coolers and fabbed up some mounts.
I'm using a 10" Maradyne fan (same brand as my radiator fans). Then I bolted it all together. Both coolers are bar and fin style which are better at cooling than the tube in fin style.
I decided to run them in parallel to reduce the fluid restriction. I also decided to run two because I had seen an increase in transmission temps when the outside temperature began warming up after putting on the 40's. I couldn't run below 195F on the freeway TC locked so I figured I needed more cooling potential.
I mounted these under the rear above the rear axle off of the old shock tube on the passenger side. I had the fan pulling through the stack from an air pocket above and exhausting down to open air. I thought it was better to not have the heated air directed at the floor board to heat up the rear of the cab. I wired in a temperature switch in the fluid line to be on at 180F so the operation would be automatic. With the transmission coolers relocated I could now start on the AC stuff.
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