Builds "Falcor" the 1984 FJ60 (2 Viewers)

[77CruiserDog]

Just paged through your efforts, great job revitalizing this 60, great looking rig.

Just noticed the winch wiring coming through the grommet in the lower valance, I like that. Not sure I would want to drill a hole in the sheet metal, but that is a clean idea.

Thanks so much. I’ve been having lots of fun!

Yeah, sadly the first owner (not the one I bought it from) had some questionable additions. The hole in the valence is the least offensive.

The alarm system, cruise control and 3 ham radios were the worst. I’m super surprised the 4 gauge hot wire zip tied to the frame all the way to the back didn’t burn this thing to the ground decades ago.

 

[Cruiser Cult]

Which Toyota dealership is helping with the gas tank recall?

 

[77CruiserDog]

Which Toyota dealership is helping with the gas tank recall?

Toyota of Kirkland, thanks to Rob at Toyota Corporate and the Service Manager at Toyota of Kirkland for agreeing to it.

 

[Cruiser Cult]

Great! We have an 87 and I can't find a record that this has been done, so I'll have to give them a call with the VIN.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Great! We have an 87 and I can't find a record that this has been done, so I'll have to give them a call with the VIN.

When you put your VIN in here, does it show it's "availible"? Lookup Safety Recalls & Service Campaigns - https://www.toyota.com/recall

The reason I ask is because Toyota of Kirkland spun me in circles for 3 months. Toyota Corprorate was able to get them pointed in the right direction and get parts ordered.

 

[MoaByte]

When you put your VIN in here, does it show it's "availible"? Lookup Safety Recalls & Service Campaigns - https://www.toyota.com/recall

The reason I ask is because Toyota of Kirkland spun me in circles for 3 months. Toyota Corprorate was able to get them pointed in the right direction and get parts ordered.

Funny thing is, from what I gather, the tank wasn't the real problem. It was the charcoal canister and vents that were mandated by US government. It's just a loop hole that worked out to benefit the few who's tanks failed, and many who's thanks got rusty.

Even the replacement tanks are not coated on the inside. To avoid rust, you gotta park over winter with a full tank.

 

[Skniper]

Funny thing is, from what I gather, the tank wasn't the real problem. It was the charcoal canister and vents that were mandated by US government. It's just a loop hole that worked out to benefit the few who's tanks failed, and many who's thanks got rusty.

Even the replacement tanks are not coated on the inside. To avoid rust, you gotta park over winter with a full tank.

Interesting. So the tank in my '90 62 actually failed 15 or so years ago, a couple spot welds popped loose from what was probably an internal baffle and it was leaking like mad. It was a daily driver then, never sat long empty.

Always assumed it was from faulty made tank welds or structure that couldn't handle the constant pressure changes from temp changes, expansion. Like you said, maybe they were good tanks that couldn't handle the vent systems. Since they don't address venting, wonder what is different about the replacement tanks. (?)

Sorry for the minor hijack @77CruiserDog

 

[77CruiserDog]

Interesting. So the tank in my '90 62 actually failed 15 or so years ago, a couple spot welds popped loose from what was probably an internal baffle and it was leaking like mad. It was a daily driver then, never sat long empty.

Always assumed it was from faulty made tank welds or structure that couldn't handle the constant pressure changes from temp changes, expansion. Like you said, maybe they were good tanks that couldn't handle the vent systems. Since they don't address venting, wonder what is different about the replacement tanks. (?)

Sorry for the minor hijack @77CruiserDog

No this is good info, I'm going to be working on the evap system when I pull things apart and I'd like to know how to make my evap system work with my non smog OEM carb. I tried hooking it up the way the desmog instructions showed but it simply created a vacuum leak.

 

[MoaByte]

No this is good info, I'm going to be working on the evap system when I pull things apart and I'd like to know how to make my evap system work with my non smog OEM carb. I tried hooking it up the way the desmog instructions showed but it simply created a vacuum leak.

I'm not absolutely sure, but the Delco canister seems to have solved the problem, at least for me. Before desmog, my tank was always under vacuum. (Isn't it supposed to the opposite?). I had some clogging in the separator too, but my tank now when opening the cap, has little or no +/- pressure and I don't have a vented gas cap.
Before, the vacuum was so intense that I dreamt that it was the true cause of why 60's seem so underpowered . So much vacuum that the pump couldn't suck enough fuel. In my dream, it made perfect sense.

 

[LazarusTaxa]

The rear fought valiantly but was finally coerced by grinding some bolt heads off.

View attachment 2938629

The frame is solid so I’ll call that the win for the day.

Awesome, glad yours did actually look a lot better than mine!

 

[77CruiserDog]

Awesome, glad yours did actually look a lot better than mine!

Yeah, thanks for taking a look at it. I was stoked to see just some flaky rust vs completely eatten through. It was also a nice sight considering how hard that rear bumper fought me.

Incidentally, I just got off the phone with Cruiser Outfitters, sounds like the H55s just landed in their shop so things are progressing!

Engine hoist is on a brown truck to be delivered next week.

I'll be reaching out to both Toyota of Kirkland, my blaster/powder coater and Queen City Plating soon. I'll report back on what I learn.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Did some work today....

Felt like an archeologist unearthing these inner fenderwell bolts so I could remove the fenders and inner fenders.

Funny enough all that blood is from lightly poking myself with part of the carb fan plug as I unplugged it.

I suppose the good news is they were protected...


Removed what I believe is the last remenant to the "bank alarm" that the first owner installed. It's the barrel key arm/disarm switch located on the fender. I'm not going to bother fixing the hole in the fender at this point, but I'm glad all of this garbage is out of Falcor finally.

I spun the fan and feel I need a new fan clutch... it spun super easy and then hard, then easy and then hard. During my water pump replacement, I remember it being completely covered in oil, I assume the fluid leaked out and is now not working properly. That might explain an odd noise I'd hear at idle, sort of a rumble or growling noise that I couldn't explain. Ordered a 3FE fan clutch part number Aisin FCT-049.

I reached out to the cad plating company in my neck of the woods and they're prices are not acceptable. Anyone cad plate anything themselves? Or are there suitible alternatives to cad plating? Much of the brackets and so forth I'll simply have blasted and powder coated but some items it would be nice to plate them with something durable. Thoughts?

I also ordered a vibratory shell casing cleaner and some media that is supposed to be good for cleaning metal. I'll use it to clean some of the bolts, washers and so forth.

Making progress.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Did more work today....

Removed steering gear box, disconnected brake lines, fuel lines, electrical, coolant lines and broke free the bottom nuts on each of the body mounts.

It pretty much looks the same but here's a picture for posterity.

Here's something interesting... the A/C belt tensioner/idler below the A/C compressor has a 6302 bearing in it. That bearing was TOAST! I removed it and pulled the seals out, it's been hammerd for a while. Such an easy replacement, $4 on Amazon and I'm certain this will reduce some of the noise I hear when idling.

 

[TheNeek]

You're really going for it Adam. I like to see it. Cadmium plating is very expensive these days. Not so good for the environment so most places won't even do it anymore. Most everyone does zinc plating now with chromate dips. Looks like cadmium if you use the yellow chromate and will make the hardware look brand new. I've been toying with the idea myself, but never pulled the trigger. It requires a bit of space (3 or 4 big buckets) and of course everything is based on the prep. Need to tumble your hardware and wire wheel or blast cabinet it. @c2dfj45 does some amazing work on the hardware for his shop. Let's swap a motor and do some other stuff to a 60.... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lets-swap-a-motor-and-do-some-other-stuff-to-a-60.1275737/post-14317844

This kit seems to be the most popular.

Plating Kits - Copy Cad® & Zinc Plating Kits - Caswell Inc

caswellplating.com

 

[4runner2FJ60]

Did more work today....

Removed steering gear box, disconnected brake lines, fuel lines, electrical, coolant lines and broke free the bottom nuts on each of the body mounts.

It pretty much looks the same but here's a picture for posterity.


View attachment 2945336
Here's something interesting... the A/C belt tensioner/idler below the A/C compressor has a 6302 bearing in it. That bearing was TOAST! I removed it and pulled the seals out, it's been hammerd for a while. Such an easy replacement, $4 on Amazon and I'm certain this will reduce some of the noise I hear when idling.

View attachment 2945333View attachment 2945334View attachment 2945335

I may need to do this? Do you have a part number or link for the bearing? When is it supposed to be touching the belt? My AC has been inactive since purchase, but I am going thru the entire system now. Thanks

 

[77CruiserDog]

I may need to do this? Do you have a part number or link for the bearing? When is it supposed to be touching the belt? My AC has been inactive since purchase, but I am going thru the entire system now. Thanks

Yeah, based on what I found, I recommend replacing that bearing, it's cheap and easy. The pully is supposed to touch the belt at all times. I believe it prevents slipping as the AC compressor turns on and off. Either way, it's spining whenever the engine is spinning so it's a wear item.

The bearing is a double rubber sealed 6302. I picked mine up on Amazon, they sent me 2 for $8.... here's a link. Amazon product ASIN B07BYFRGSR
The metal spacer/washer on the back of the pulley appears to be directional. One side of the step is taller than the other. In my picture above, it's the black round stepped washer at the bottom of that picture. The thinner side is placed toward the bearing.

Also, for the installation, I plan on putting the bearing in the freezer and warming up the pulley to make it slide right in, I'll report back on how that works out.

 

[LazarusTaxa]

Do you have a pic of how that tensioner is mounted? I'm pretty sure it only goes one way, but I found that when I reinstalled mine it barely touched the belt, and that the belt was still able to contact the bottom radiator hose when the engine was revving.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

My bearing looks very similar. Pulled it off today because of that ease of access! I to am curious about correct orientation as my belt was miles away from it since purchase.....but my AC was never running either. Maybe it goes inside the loop and my tensioner was adjusted way out?

 

[77CruiserDog]

My bearing looks very similar. Pulled it off today because of that ease of access! I to am curious about correct orientation as my belt was miles away from it since purchase.....but my AC was never running either. Maybe it goes inside the loop and my tensioner was adjusted way out?

View attachment 2946764

View attachment 2946765

That's actually a great question!! I think if it were supposed to ride on the inside of the V belt it would be shaped in a V... not sure though.

I wonder if your AC belt is not the correct size?

I'd include a picture of where mine was located but the belt is off as is the tensioner.... maybe someone else has an image handy??

 

[4runner2FJ60]

It has always been outside of the belt on mine. I am running Toyota belts. Just looks far from touching but maybe with the slot hole in the bracket I can get it to touch? Anyone have a pic or advise on the correct orientation?